kodiakblair

Back to the Tutmarc. My mate, Rick Wilson, did a full restoration on one when he worked at Gruhn's. Didn't say much about it but marks it down as a cool experience 🙂

Aye. Boy I work with is furious, hoped for mass forced deportation of everyone with African or Indian ancestry who've been here less than 4 decades. Swears he's not racist but I have my doubts 😄

Aye, B-word pretty much killed European sales on used basses for me. Real shame, had 6 German fellas with first dibs on some Peaveys 🙁

That yellow bass is a Retrovibe, David Konig does some design work for Chowny but runs his own business. https://retrovibe.co.uk/product-category/basses/

The notion of some basses being a "one trick pony" is nonsense, get creative instead of constrained. Several years back I sent a couple of bass parts to a Danish guitar player, asking which he preferred. Response was "2nd one with the fresh set of rounds." Thing is there had been no new strings nor a change in settings; both parts had been recorded on a Westone Concord with no Vol or Tone pots. His "new strings" was me shifting my right hand position to nearer the bridge 😃

I've 3 of the older CP-05 units for the exact same reason 😄

Very nice but I think I'll stick with my £160 'inspired by' from G4M.

I doubt many there have a clue dark meranti exists let alone what it looks like. Most revert to default setting, "it's $h*t", when confronted with an East Asian bass from a brand they've never heard of; especially when said bass retailed for less than Squier money.

@mrbacco You've got the right idea regarding swapping the nut, just knock the old one off and replace it with a right hander. Guitars and basses are not that complicated 👍

You're welcome. Regarding Warman pickups, Josi charges what he does because pickups are not expensive to build. Take this . https://www.axesrus.co.uk/TeleBASSPUPPARTS-p/51pbasspupkit.htm Add £1 between #44 AWG & hook up wire to end up with this https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Seymour-Duncan-Vintage-P-Bass-SCPB-1-Singlecoil/art-BAS0004029-000

OP has body with square pocket , he wants to pair it with a rounded heel fretless neck. Body has square pocket. Neck has rounded heel. Slide neck over top of body until rounded corners meet corners in squared pocket. Mark tip of rounded heel. Placed stop block (shaped to fit rounded heel) at mark. Neck is butted up to stop block. Straight edges run down either side of the neck then clamped in place, never took photos of that. Neck is removed, leaving you with Square to Rounded Heel jig. Result after router work. Red arrow points to end of original squared pocket. Yellow arrows point to new rounded pocket end. No gaps L to R. 4mm was removed from squared heel. If the work was being done to a body where the bridge had already been fitted, saddles would need 4mm travel to intonate properly.

Both me and my pal over in Kenya have those Warman Quad coil HBs. Pal is a big fan of Warman pickups, his current build is an EB-1 with one of Josi's Jazzbars at the neck. You made a great decision there 🙂 I'll double check but I'm pretty sure the Quad coil is standard humbucker dimensions, template can be made from web downloads. Aye. Simple task, just glue strips of veneer in the fret slots then trim/sand smooth. Another simple task. You can either square the heel of the neck or round the pocket, I've done both plenty of times. Squaring the heel is just a case of making a temple from the pocket, transferring it to the heel then taking away the excess wood; I normally use a rasp + flat file for that. To round the pocket, you lay the neck on top of the body. You'll need to prop the peghead up thickness of the body and put a 16mm block in the pocket to give the heel something to rest on. Slide the neck down until the corners of the heel meet the corners of the pocket; mark the tip of the rounded heel on the body. You'll also want to extend the neck lines down the body. If you have centre line down the body you can keep everything is in line with 2 straight edges running down each side of the neck and measuring across. Since I do this fairly often I knocked up a jig but anything straight will do. You'll follow those lines with your router. Lastly shape a stop block following the rounded heel. Clamp 2 straight edges to the body, placed on the extended lines, the rounded stop goes where you made the first mark. The attached PDF has the 51 centre line, print it out and transfer it to your body. 51Body.PDF

Of course he knows, he had to remove the Harley Benton logo before putting the butterfly sticker on. It's a BZ-4000 with swapped bridge, tuning pegs and knobs. Think mine cost £214 split new.

Is that code for POS ? Pretty collection of centre punch holes on the nut, only someone truly talented or very drunk could make that pattern 😄

Much as the Entwistle PBXN impressed the hell out of me, the mega high output can be difficult to cope with. For a great sounding, affordable, drop-in split coil; Tone Rider would be my choice 👍

@jezzaboy has the PJ-4 SBK in the for sale ads 👍

Weight has it's place but balance is more important. I've a P-bass comes in just under 6lbs, it's really uncomfortable to play due to lousy balance.

Only worth noting if you know the reviewer's background and experience. If the reviewer leads a sedentary life or has never handled a bass before then 4.5-5.5Kg may seem heavy. To a mother with young children, 4.5-5.5Kg is nothing; it's a healthy baby boy at 12 weeks. Much the same for checkout staff in supermarkets, they'll sling 5Kg bags pf potatoes with one hand; blissfully unaware that's considered "too heavy" on internet bass forums 😄

@BigRedX I had a purple Wesley 5 string; at 13lbs it was heavier than any T-40 I've owned.

Aye, I saw your earlier post. Tony gets 10 out of 10 from me for his choice in gear.

Not unless it's some daft wee travel bass thing like this.

In honour of the genius Semie Moseley, one of his ideas for an original body design was to simply take a regular body and flip it.