rmorris

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1359055329' post='1949214'] Have thought about this a bit more (not sure of brain power after day at work though). The unit only working when presence pot full on could be symptomatic of a 'fractured' solder joint. If the pot is a pcb mounted one it seems even more likely. The fix might be as simple as 'reflowing' the solder joints of the pot on the pcb. [/quote] +1. First stop is to reflow the solder joints to the pot. Maybe remove existing solder ( with solder wick ) and re solder. Is there a screen/wire connected to the pot body itself ? If so then it's a suspect as such joints sometimes fail due to the pot body acting as a heatsink during soldering. The joint may then become unreliable over time (dry joint). Re make all the solder joints anyway. Let us know how you get on.

You'll prob need to experiment with different R / C values for bass and dependent on pickup(s) and value of the volume potentiometer. Unless you really need to use the volume control on the bass it's much more predictable to use the amplifier or mixing desk level controls.

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1358924853' post='1947043'] Be brave, open it up and have a look. From what you say it could be something as simple as detached screen lead on a jack socket. If it is this obvious it is an easy DIY fix. [/quote] +1 Sounds like a broken ground (screen) path.

Location ?

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1357296285' post='1920443'] With velcro I find that the glue on the back is usually the weakest link. I've superglued the stuff to a pedal more than once! [/quote] +1 Yeah - the problem wioth sticky back Velcro/ Hook'n'Loop fastener always seems to be that the hook/loop fixing is fine but the adhesive fails. eg on IKEA Venetian blinds where it's used to fix the fascia. I guess the right sort of 'superglue' or epxy resin ( eg Araldite) would sort it if you're happy to commit !

[quote name='51m0n' timestamp='1356371494' post='1909666'] It will cover far more than just bass, and its good metering will mean you will have a great tool for educating yourself, and your ears to comperssion. Enjoy it! [/quote] +1 You should really get a 'proper' stereo compressor if you want to use it for recording in general as well as bass. Standard units from dbx / symetrix / alesis / behringer etc will offer you a great deal of flexibility but that also means access to a shed load of sounds which you won't actually want to use on a particular sound source. So if you want to be effective you really need to learn / read about compression - there's lots of info out there - to understand how to get the effects you're looking for. That's more important really than the particular box of electronics chosen. Playing with software compressors on a DAW is a great way to get a feel for it without buying loads of kit plus you get visual info on the monitor. Of course something like the Carl Martin mentioned may give a flavour of something you can't afford in it's fully fledged and expensive guise ( Urei / Pultec etc ) so it's a judgement.

[quote name='malcolm.mcintyre' timestamp='1356869513' post='1914426'] I am NOT looking for actual distortion. [/quote] Well it is distortion ( if it wasn't it would sound the same as without the effect ! ) but I guess it's not "what I like to call" DISTORTION [quote name='Muzz' timestamp='1356938921' post='1915290'] I used a BDI-21 as above, and also a Sansamp BDDI into my LMIII. They both sounded good and SVT-like, and so similar that if I ever went that way again I'd be tempted to save the money and just get the Behringer. Given how little they cost, it's worth trying one. [/quote] +1 from experience a BDDI with a modest Drive setting will give you a sound along the lines you're looking for and given that most people reckon the Behringer BDI sound similar then prob worth a go. If you do fancy having a real tube on a budget then might want to think about giving an ART Tube MP mic preamp a go. It's a low voltage 'starved grid' circuit so tube purists will probably scoff but it may get you something you like soundwise. They seem to go for well under £50ish on ebay / gumtree etc.

[quote name='LITTLEWING' timestamp='1356971945' post='1915858'] Okay, what I'm after is close right now using the bass's tone control, a cross between Paladino when I want 'smooth' and Clayton when I want 'punch'. I may well be barking up the wrong tree in the fact that my 300 watts isn't doing it at volume, whereas 500 may give me what I'm after with more headroom. [/quote] Are you micing up the amp setup to get the PA / FoH sound ?

The washers shouldn't be there so you can just get rid of them. My first long scale bass was ( and still is ) a Thunder 1A many years ago and I 've beeen through all the electronics several times ( at present has lo-Z EMGs fitted)

[quote name='bassman7755' timestamp='1355676622' post='1901243'] Hmmm I think I may have answered my own question, it seems the circuit I was looking at has a 1k ohm input impedance so that would presumably make it compatible with dynamic mics out-of-the-box so to speak. [/quote] I haven't seen the Maplin mic to line box but from those impedance specs it should work fine. Going into a high impedance isn't really a problem in any case whereas too low an input impedance will seriously degrade the sound. It can be more tricky to engineer Hi-Z inputs with low noise / interference though. In fact 1K0 input impedance sounds a bit low. Typical source impedance for a dynamic mic is in the region of 200 ohm and inputs are generally set to have an input impedance of 10x the source impedance so that gives 2K0. But it could be that it's 1K0 per balanced leg giving total 2K0. Anyway it should work fine. Let us know on here how it works out.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1355679942' post='1901295'] True, but neutral is tied to ground and the phase has a constantly varying voltage. In the UK on a single phase that's 230V to -230V. [/quote] +1 Essentially problems arise where 'earths' are not at reasonably close potentials due to missing or poor connections. This can be due to connections not being made or becoming disconnected or simply through conductors which have too much impedance - usually as simple as the wire not being thick enough. ; or connections can corrode over time due to rust / oxidiseation or chemical reaction between different metals. It's also worth mentioning that 240 (ish) Vac (RMS) means that the peak voltage to 0V is in the region of 340V. On a slightly different note it's worth recognising that the potential problems reduce if you're not 'earthing' yourself by contact with the strings / bridge etc. of your bass/guitar. this seems generally to be okay where you use Lo-Z pickups ( emg etc ) and / or galvanic isolation - If I recall correctly WAL basses were fitted with an isolating audio transformer ?

I'd have to go with recommending you use an RCD plug for your multi way mains block but you could still get an issue if the mic / pa system is run off a different socket. Hopefully the venue would have RCD protection where the power enters the building but it's possible that it might not and just be relying on fuses. It shouldn't be the case of course but it may not be practical to verify in all cases. Classically you can get a problem if the 'earth' on the bass is significantly different to the 'earth' on a mic. High Power installations may use different 'phases' of the electricity supply ( ref 3 phase power ) and problems, possibly lethal, can result. People have been killed as a result. If I recall correctly, someone in the 'Sensational Alex Harvey Band' was killed like this in Swansea many moons ago.

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1355332226' post='1897089'] If you're experienceing extreme interference you could try checking and/or improving the screening of your bass. coating the pickup cavities with conductive paint, or copper tape and connecting to earth can get rid of huge amounts of hum and interference. The Precision bass pickup is actually wired as a humbucker already so am I right to assume the issue is with your Jazz bass? If so shielding will definitely help alot. I have Wizards on my main Jazz (and an S-1) and covering the pickup and control covities in conductive tape made a huge difference. [/quote] Screening / shielding will reduce rf pickup which is higher frequencies. It cuts down the amount of interference which gets translated into noise at audio frequencies and should stop the local taxi firm coming through your amp and noise from computer monitors etc. But it won't do much to counteract noise from lower frequency sources - typically noise from transformers in amplifiers or from lighting rigs etc. Technically it's because the interference is caused by an electromagnetic field. At higher frequencies the interference is predominantly electrical and shielding is effective. As the frequency decreases the field becomes more magnetic and normal shielding becomes less and less effective. The solution in an audio context is to use a low source impedance and impedance balanced wiring and electronics (as typical with microphones). Hi-Z pickups and single ended wiring and electronics mitigate against an ideal solution although the use of coil configurations discussed can help by cancelling out noise at the pickups. With the correct pickup wiring options Hi-Z pickups (as well as low Z types ) can be configured as balanced sources and then the signal can be converted to a balanced low Z signal to send it down to the amp/fx. Basically wire the pickup as a balanced source and have a DI circuit in the bass.

Does it have to be a pedal ? I'm thinking you wouldn't be needing to switch it in/out whilst playing ? If that's the case then you can get well spec'd compressor units well within budget. I'd suggest lookout for an Alesis NanoCompressor (1/3 rack format). Good quality flexible compressor. Seem to go around £30ish on ebay etc.

for the OP...did you decide what fx to use for this ? would be interested to know what you decided. Cheers.

[quote name='lojo' timestamp='1353691173' post='1877585'] Just play it straight [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpkHczKcwsQ[/media] [/quote] He could do but the synthy bass sound is now so associated with the song that it seems sort of integral for a straightish cover version esp as it what was on the 7" single. And yes - that documentary is saved on my PVR - very moving though I've not read the book. He was a star when I saw him a while ago at Brighton Komedia. And Paul Cook on drums too ! And given that this is a basscentric site I guess we should give an honourable mention to original OJ bassist David McClymont. Anyone know if he's still musically active ?

It's probably best to use a jack plug to keep the contacts open I reckon. After all it's what the socket is designed for and there's no problem if you want to use it as normal.

[quote name='Walker' timestamp='1353316568' post='1873441'] Thanks Mark, yes, I did read it but didn't understand the bit about the paper. Would that be on the 'new' input jack or the front one? What is the paper doing? [/quote] On the shielded wire - you can use single core shielded . Signal is soldered to centre conductor. Shield /0V connection soldered to the cable screen. The paper would go on the existing front panel jack - simply stops the signal being grounded which is what usually happens with no input due to the spring action of the jack.

Depends how fussy you are about matching the sound I guess. MuTron / QTron etc should be fine but if not available then any decent envelope follower should get you close enough for recognition of the sound. If i remember correctly the 'synth' sound was on the 7" single but the 12" inch had at least a version where the sound was more straight bass guitar.Do correct me on this if mistaken as I don't have the tracks to hand atm. Also consider adding in a bit of Octave pedal depending on the sound you want. Now, how about a cover of 'Breakfast Time' or 'Blue Boy' or 'Simply Thrilled Honey'. Sorry :-)

all good advice. You should use a shielded cable for any extra wiring. Guage isn't important (as there's very little current involved).

[quote name='spinynorman' timestamp='1353073943' post='1871295'] I remember a recent thread someone mentioned Aldi selling something like this cheap. Just seen on Amazon, reduced to £2.65 with free super slow delivery. I've ordered one, not due to arrive till next week though. Thought someone else here might be interested. [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001BMSBD4/ref=pe_217191_31005151_dp_1"]http://www.amazon.co...1_31005151_dp_1[/url] [/quote] I have the Rolson one at work and a generic or 'maplin' version at home. The Rolson seems better quality and heavier and so more stable.Can still be frustrating though due to overbalancing / being pulled by weight of components and cables, and the magnifier isn't great optical quality. If you can attach it to a larger surface you'll likely find it more use due to greater stability.

New Dawn Fades : Joy Division (Peter Hook) - simple, structured and beautiful - and it gets better when the guitar comes in !

You'll likely be okay with it soundwise although it (obviously) won't have the mechanical toughness of a Bosss or similar metal cased pedal. Personally I'd be thinking to look for something on here or ebay / gumtree. I reckon the 'cheap' Rocktek Chorus works well with Bass - not as subtle as some but that seems to suit better imho. Or Arion ? Alternatively have a look at new Joyo / Harley Benton (Thomann) pedals...

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1352308253' post='1861440'] The logical thing to do would be to have a variable resistor of the correct value in line, so you can turn down the signal going to the speaker - however this will not only need to withstand an awful lot of current, it will increase the resistance of the second cab upon the amp - which will f**k things up for the amp, especially for a valve head! I think the simplest option would be to get a power amp and take a line out from the guitar amp. Or just get a cheap powered monitor running off a line out from the amp. You don't want to be messing around with the impedance (resistance) where an amp is concerned IMO. The volume needs to be adjusted at line level. [/quote] +1

[quote name='Protium' timestamp='1351797555' post='1855619'] 7/0.2 is fine for effects or guitars, I prefer to use multi core as it's more flexible and I find the solder joints are more reliable than single core [/quote] +1 tin the wires with solder first then joint should make easily and reliably if you use a decent soldering iron. also if working on pcbs / diy fx etc it can be better to use a thin single core wire like 'Kynar' wire as long as you have the appropriate strippping widget. Saves space and can attach to SMT components etc.