Michael J

Chucking "fender bass setup guide" into a well-known search engine yielded [url=http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/]this[/url] as first result. Might as well see what's coming from the horse's mouth.

Exactly. What does an electric guitar sound like?

If you want it to sound "natural" then your system needs to extend about an octave either side of the range of interest, with no massive humps or peaks in the response, no woeful dips, nice and flat (when fed with a flat signal), and low distortion. Anything else is not a speaker, it's an effects box - which is fine if you want that effect... Most music/pa amplifiers and cabs are effects boxes.

Are the cabs suitably stuffed? Stuffing can make quite a difference to low end extension by making the box "appear" (to the driver) internally larger than it really is - at the price of some efficiency.

My mattress is an eight inch thick slab of foam. I have heard, and can well believe but have not tried, that rolls of loft insulation work well as bass traps. You get the big rolls and, leaving them in their wrapping, you just stand them up on end in the corners of the room. They act as thick broadband absorbers, significantly reducing bass resonances, and also the curved face provides dispersion of high frequencies - another plus. If possible stack one on top of another until you reach the ceiling.

[quote name='paisleyboy66' timestamp='1396206943' post='2411000'] Hi. I use Laney Richter 4x10 8ohms 400 watt cab( red Truvox 1018 speakers) with an Ashdown Mag 410 4x10 8ohm 450 watt cab(8 ohm 150 watt Ashdown speakers) with a Hartke Ha3500 bass head (240w at 8ohm,350w at 4ohm). My prob is the Ashdown cab is much quieter than the Laney cab (at least half the volume). All speakers are working.I don't understand why the difference in output. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks! [/quote] I'm deaf in one ear. What's the problem?

[quote name='Torben Hedstrøm' timestamp='1392741857' post='2372207']Anyone have some formulas explaining the relationship between the amount of air to be moved, compared to the stroke of a given membrane for starters ?. Regards. Torben [/quote] volume (of cylinder) = pi * r^2 * h Big drivers don't have to move back'n'forth by as far in order to shift a given amount of air. It's called volume for a reason.

5V [b]is[/b] flat as a pancake for a 9V battery.

My tatty stage monitor rattles at volume. In this case it's mostly the carrying handle, the remaining cap (one is missing) covering the mounting screws isn't entirely tight. Press on it quite lightly with your toe and the rattle stops, take your foot away and it rattles again. I like it.

I did find [url=http://www.studybass.com/]this site[/url] which looks helpful.

Gosh, it's February already! Neck shim was removed a while ago - first important setting is nut, imo. If that's wrong it will make things harder. I'm getting used to the higher action, it's actually better to be able to play that way if you can manage it. I'll reshim when I'm happy at the head end. Truss rod hasn't been adjusted for a while, I've just about got the A string buzzing on all frets between finger and nut when fretted along much of the neck. Not a problem amplified, it doesn't get through. When the others match it then I can shim the nut up to provide whatever clearance I require, and eventually cut a clean copy which can actually get fixed in place. . Last week I got a teach-yourself book from the local Oxfam, looks to have a decent structured programme starting right at the beginning and going on to moderately advanced stuff in just 80 pages. 12-bar in dozens of varieties... At the weekend I picked up an old genuine stage monitor in a poor condition, very cheaply. That has now been serviced and rewired with decent electric string (it had rubbish in it), lined with as much foam stuffing as would fit inside, sealed up the front baffle seating with draught excluder to stop it puffing (it was blowing a gale past there), result is much improved. It gives me a 12" professional driver that does pretty good bass and can take all the power that the amp is able to deliver and more besides. It is quite a lot louder than the internal speaker. I'd rather blow up an external speaker than the one built-in to the amp, it's easier to replace.

Do say hello.

Ebay do, search for completed listings. Ed: rough guessing, table alone £50-150 depending on condition, is the wind blowing the right way, etc. SME £200-400. Whole thing, £300 to maybe £500, if someone has trouble resisting. Don't take that as gospel, I'm not exactly following the trends.

Loudness and power etc. are compared using a logarithmic scale, +3dB = x2, +10dB = x10. Using 96dB from 1 Watt as an example: [b]96dB@1W[/b], 99dB@2W, 102dB@4W, 105dB@8W, [b]106dB@10W[/b], 108dB@16W, 111dB@32W, 114dB@64W, [b]116dB@100W[/b], 117dB@128W, 120dB@256W, 123dB@512W, [b]126dB@1KW, ...[/b] It makes the maths easier as you can add numbers to perform multiplications. The less efficient speaker will require twice as much power from the amplifier in order to produce the same amount of loudness as measured by a microphone. The ear is logarithmic again on top of this, +10dB only sounds about twice or maybe three times as loud... Efficient speakers are a better bet than high-powered amplifiers. I plugged my 15W practice amp into a 4x12 cab in the local music shop - it was well loud at halfway on the volume control, from just one or two watts output through its external speaker jack socket.

For some reason that I do not understand I'd like a seven string fretless, entirely black, with no markings at all. Don't ask me why.

This topic needs subscriptions.

I was trying with a Dunlop orange 0.60mm today. Feels better on bass than I remember on guitar.

Mine looks to have a stereo jack socket fitted to it, tip and sleeve terminals connected as output, ring terminal not connected. I suppose it could be rewired balanced for jack to XLR.

I had a go with Radio 2 country stuff the other night, on the grounds that it was likely to be one or the other of "both kinds" and quite possibly in "A" (good country key). Good fun.

The pots have been cleaned by a blast through with lighter gas, and the electrics compartment is now lined with aircraft wing repair thick metal tape, both of those have improved things considerably electrically. Currently straightening the neck by truss rod adjustment and waiting, also resetting saddle heights to reduce fret buzzes, and continuing to hack away at the nut. I might yet have to remove the shim I fitted under the neck yesterday... or modify it depending on how the straightening goes.

I thank 'ee.

Picked up what appears to be a DiMavery SB-320/321 with no strings or nut at a junk sale last weekend, found a little Squier BP15 practise amp on ebay soon after, ordered some cheap strings online (arrived within 48 hours), visited my local musicke shoppe on Wednesday to get strap pins (body end one was broken), filed away at a salvaged nut from an acoustic guitar, fitted strings, strap, plugged in, tuned up, and I'm now officially a beginner bassist for about £40 all in.