Woodinblack

In the case you showed, they are external links to flickr photos that no longer exist. The top post is photobucket, which is there, and the bottom are flikr that obviously aren't. There was a big event with photo bucket a decade or so ago when they went from free to not free and half the photos of the internet went missing which caused a lot of problems on the internet. More recently we ran out of disk space so had to ask people to delete a lot of images unfortunately (now sorted), although this is just an account going away. Sadly any photo hosting service on the internet that starts of popular either dies because they don't make any money, or dies because they start charging too much money.

It is common, and yes, those people who bow out are the people who want to actually gig and finally realise that despite promises, it is not going to happen. They are not the better for it, they have pretty well wasted their time. Indeed. Check the intentions of the people you are joining a band with to ensure they align with yours. Clearly the two people (including myself) that I quoted. Me and Him / We.

I had one for a while, great sound, gigged it a bit, although not as much as I could as it was heavy. Easily loud enough for a cover band with a loud drummer, although obviously the louder you get the less clean you can have it.

What your describing is exactly the opposite of what we are saying here. If you join a band knowing they are not gigging, that is fine and would have no issues with that (and probably wouldn't join). This is referring to a group that you have joined after being told the intention is to gig, and then people always coming up with a reason you can't and putting it off. That IS soul destroying.

Almost certainly because the original pictures have been deleted, but without an example I couldn't say for sure.

You have a meter, check that all the metal parts conduct to each other, it could be trapped by anything

OK, in the first photo, the tone control, the wire up from the terminal at the edge that connects to the capacitor needs to connect to that wire that it is almost but not quite touching, or the tone won't work. Other than that I can't immediately see why you are not getting any sound. again, check with your meter across the terminals of the jack socket, With the volume fully one way it will be zero, with it fully the other way it should be many thousands

I can - I know a couple. They don't want to gig, but they want to get together and play, which is fine as long as when someone joins they know up front that that is the score. I joined a group once that just made excuses why they weren't ready all the time, and did virtually no gigs.

Assuming you just haven't connected the wire to the volume from the centre switch yet, as you haven't got round to it, looks like it should work. I can't tell because of the angle but there is a link between the tone control outside tag with the capacitor and the case is there?

If you click on the x in someones sig, you can choose to hide theirs or all sigs. I routinely hide any sig that is more than a couple of lines of text long, and pretty well anything with a photo (as it wrecks the flow of the text in a thread).

Not quite sure I understand what you mean there. Look at the 24th fret - as a fraction of the string it is 25% of the way from the bridge to the nut - it has to be, or it wouldn't play in tune, regardless of how long the string was. So that blue line is a continuation of the slope of the strings, so yes, that blue line is the same proportion of the scale of each string regardless of its length from the bridge (clearly the length from the bridge to the blue line is further in absolute distance the bigger string you go, but the same proportion).

Do you know what the cost is? I think if it was me I would ask Andyjr1515 to do it, or one of the others around here that can

Pah, dream of only having one banner to hide every week or too!

Yeh, I had a GK 4x10 cab delivered with a massive dent in the corner and a few more impact marks. Wasn't so bad (like, wasn't a write off like that), and it got me a few quid off from thomman

I don't think she would need that for a piano?

Cant help feeling the guy on the left isn't putting the same level of effort into it there!

For entirely different reasons than the input voltage.

Why would that be incorrect? noone would make one of those that couldn't do 100-240V, otherwise you have to make several of them.

From the body of the volume (or the tone if you want), to the other end of the jack socket, ie, the bit that you can't see in your photo that you would plug into the amp.

I would do a variation on what Dad is saying for someone not that comfortable with soldering. That huge earth braided cable is the main issue, but it is soldered and absolutely certainly working as an earth. Currently too well. I would leave that cable as the earth and cut off the black wire that goes through it, on the volume, tone, switch and socket - It is probably shorted everywhere anyway, and it would be harder to unsolder. So the sheild would touch the outside of the switch, the body of the volume and tone, and a soldered connection which is your blue wire. Then run one wire from the center of the switch to the volume, and the tone, and the output to the centre of the socket. I can't really see how the volume is wired under that wiring, so I can't say what pin it goes to.

Is it the right polarity?

I wouldn't worry about the middle cable at the moment, time to get the jack sorted. In the words of the song, time to rip it up and start again! Looking at the socket from that orientation, you want one wire going from the shield of the wire to the ground of the plug. I suspect you already have that, but you should check that it buzzes from the outside of the plugged in lead to the body of one of the pots. The other lead, the white one, remove it from where it is, and it needs to go to the same wire that connects the left of the green capacitor on your tone to the volume. But the thing that may be an issue is that that blob of wires on the tone might already be shorting the output. Again, measure it with the meter. Measure between the two outside terminals of the tone. If they are shorted out (ie, it reads 0), turn the volume the other way and try again. If it still reads 0 then the cable is shorted somewhere in that sheild soldering.

No switched mode power supply produced in the last 20 years should have any issues between 220 and 240v, they are designed for much bigger variations than that. I would also be very surprised if you could find a valve amp that was that senstive to that change either - partly because new ones were built to cope with 110 / 220 or 240, and old ones were designed to cope with whatever crazy voltage you had in your local areas as it used to be very different. it wasn't until the 60s that some areas stopped having DC.

Well, it isn't, you can still buy them direct, just was showing it as an option.

The old ones were in bassdirect for just over £300 - I am sure the new ones will be too when they are updated