Twincam

Strings and setup first > Pickups (something like a seymour duncan spb3 quarter pounder) > Electrics (all new loom, pots, cap).

Been using generic lemon oil stuff, but is there something better out there for oiling unfinished fret boards?.

The Fenders and rotos are high tension!. I found rotosound flats to be horrible in everyway. I believe people who like flats with less tension go for the Thomastik infeld TI jazz flats.

Before i bought a mustang bass (which i no longer have). Which is the best shortscale in my opinion. I wondered if i would actually like the shorter scale so i bought one of these. http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_hbp90bk_shortscale_ebass.htm Cheap but useable. For shortscale though mustang bass all the way. The come in three versions Squier vm mustang, Fender Pawn shop mustang and the Fender (Japan) 64 reissue mustang. One day i will own another one.

Ive got an older bass cube but ive tried the newer ones with the looper. There ok, ive said it before there over priced though (which is why i bought an older model). Although they are very well built and look pretty cool to. The effects (all of them) in general are passable but more for messing around at home with than for serious work. Some of the amp modeling is not the best, some of the amp models are good though. The 120xl is the one you want. But the price is way too high i feel. Also there all heavy apart from the micro rx. But there is nothing better currently for something that does it all so to speak. There is also the 60xl which is pretty much the same but has only a 3 band eq the 120xl has 4 a band one. All the bass cubes work great with a guitar and the effects work much better. Its like they didn't do any or much etc work when taking the effects from the guitar version to bass version. There are vids on youtube of the looper in action i believe. If you can get one second hand go for it i would say.

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1420981830' post='2655731'] Thats sounds good. my input is - valve amp + input gain up like this [media]http://youtu.be/b2qb2UTUtrI[/media] [/quote] I like this but would of liked to hear it finger style.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1420998897' post='2656016'] I really like the basses that look nothing like the brand that shall not be named. [/quote] Haha.

I think the best advice is to always politely talk to the person about how you feel. Or you could turn up your volume every time he is doing it haha.

I had my guitars set up all different ways. Here is my "own personal" view on strings heights and neck relief measurements. Now people do measure height in different places i measure at the 17th fret (from top of fret to bottom of string). Also it depends on strings. In general the higher tension the string the lower you can go. 4.0mm string height measured at the 17th fret and neck relief .20 measured at the 7th (with capo at 1st fret and finger on the last. Is the max string height and relief most people could get away with. This setup will be very clean and give a nice deep tone. This comes with trade off's such as ease and speed of playing. There are folks out there how can easy play with a setup like this and even higher, but in general this really is the most you want. 3.0mm and .15 relief. is a good trade off between a standard action height and a high one. 2.4mm and .10 to .15 relief. This is in line with fender specs. Pretty much any bass will play ok with this setup. Some players with a robust attack might still get fretbuzz when not intended. This i my default go to setup, from there i will adjust a bass to match what i want or if im doing a set up for another i will fine tune it for them. 2.0mm and up to .15 relief Will just be really starting to test how good the frets are. Most people with a controlled attack can play this set up. under 2.0mm-1.5mm and .10 and under relief needs good fret work. Someone who can control there attack. Under 1.5 mm i feel tone starts to degrade (my view only). 0 to .7 relief is for players with a very light touch. There are some great players who can get big sounds out of low relief im not one of them. My personal set up is using rounds 3.0mm and .10 relief. Flatwounds 2.0mm and .10 relief. Carol Kaye used a high setup and used to recommend 4mm from fret board to string. So just over 3mm or depending on your fret height. James Jamerson supposedly had huge string clearance too. You can really hear this in his tone, it's not all about the ancient flatwounds he was playing. He had a very strong plucking technique and needed that room to let the string really vibrate. Will Lee. He had a big string height at 4mm and still complained of fret buzz. Apprently his action has came down over the years. In the other direction. There are also plenty of players who make low action work for them, and there is tone in fret buzz and clank too. Chris Squire, John Entwhistle etc etc. There are no rules just what feels right for you.

[quote name='Sara SG' timestamp='1420850779' post='2654341'] Twincam - were you using a mic? I've had nasty electric shocks when using a mic at same time as playing bass - usually means there is an earth problem with the bass amp.You get in the circuit. Take care! [/quote] [quote name='Sara SG' timestamp='1420850878' post='2654342'] If you are still using the same amp Twincam - check the earth. If it was one at a gig - it was probably their dodgy amp! Otherwise dont wear nylon underwear to gigs [/quote] I checked everything was ok. And urgh nylon. Silk all the way lol.

I was sure the other day i got a little shock from my bass. Didn't half move quick to turn the power off. Hasn't happened again however.

Some good advice here. I think im going to stick with doing small repairs for now and possibly see if there is someone local(ish) who does builds i could volunteer my time too. Also yes a business course would be good to. But also ive decided against getting any money from my friend. As it doesn't seem right. I would certainly love to do small scale builds and i love working on guitars and basses. But i think i probably have to work on some other life priorities first. Before starting my own business.

Im pretty good at setups and basic work on guitar and bass. I can do electronic work and am very good at soldering. A friend of mine would basically give me the money to set myself up and money for further learning. My friend is an eccentric rich man who was over the moon i replaced a key on his piano and tuned it,for less money than a normal tuning he always folked out for. Ive done set ups and minor fret work for friends and i think im sh*t hot to be honest!. So my friend has offered to pay for me to set myself up in business, but i need to learn more (so i need to know where to go to learn), and i dont know what insurance i might need. Money is not a worry.

Odd deal i done was for two very expensive ww2 era German pilots watches valued at over 2k. I only wanted to sell them in the UK but a guy from Italy bought them, He then got his mate in the USA to pay for them, and i sent them to a guy in Brighton. Now there was a odd sale!, and guy with connections. Also sold a Rolex to a guy at a Mcdonalds drive through. Was funny i remember him phoning his wife to ask permission to buy it. And once met a man under the Angel of the north, to buy some expensive mountain boarding gear. He came alone which i thought was mad as there was no camera's about and at the time only a tiny parking area. Group of foreign tourists wondered what on earth we were up to. Glad the deal went well anyhow, i knew it would go down well.

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1420570473' post='2650789'] Just looking at my Spector. The top horn does look a bit like an ergonomic marital aid. That strap-pin would bring a tear to your eye. [/quote] [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1420570655' post='2650795'] Which one? [/quote] [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1420570755' post='2650797'] Kelly's [/quote] Lmao

[quote name='ambient' timestamp='1420486561' post='2649943'] They'd have a higher output, I didn't know this until the other week, seemingly stainless steel isn't magnetic so they use a steel core, but nickel is magnetic. [/quote] Yes i know stainless isnt magnetic hence the core being a different metal, But Nickel has a low magnetic field and all nickel strings not the plated type have a low output. Of course ive not tried them yet put its common knowledge that they have a slightly lower output than most strings.

Ive used plenty on nickel plated strings like mentioned above however im looking at pure nickel ones like the fender 7150 sets. Supposed to be more mellow and reduced finger noise but lower output as there pure nickel.

[quote name='fingerz' timestamp='1420476945' post='2649762'] Sad if Fender are indeed in trouble. I understand all the feelings towards the company mentioned in this thread. Though there has been good and bad gear roll out of every factory/luthiers door at some point. The only company I've not seen questionable work or a dodgy set up from is Yamaha! Set up issues etc don't bother me, you can look at an instrument in the shop and gauge how far you can go with the action and tension in the neck when you try it. It's all subjective and can be made to work well for you. In my experience a good Fender can be the most bad ass sound there is. When I hear a good strat or telly it's a sound that can't be matched at any price point, or at least, rarely improved upon IMO. They are relatively cheap when you compare them to custom type instruments based on those designs. For me, they represent solid, working tools that are reliable as hell, and sound great. You just have to play a lot of them. But that goes for most instruments, again, IME, to find the one for you. We can sit and slag them off all we like, but they have shaped what we do over the years, and their instruments have been a leveller across classes and genres. Maybe they have taken the p*** in recent years on the balance books, or manufacturing process. But if that's the case I'm sure they can turn it around. I would be very sad if they weren't around any more. I remember a student of mine who had a new Squire Jazz bass, it was a GREAT sounding and playing jazz... [/quote] I agree with the point about Yamaha all the ones ive seen have been great from low end to the higher priced range. I think some of there range are rather bland though. But i would buy a new one online and be very confident more so than many brands it would be good one. Which i think is possibly why some people expect more of Fender, Yamaha make all sorts of stuff Fender are supposed to be just an instrument company. But the quality for price ratio is all over the place, If it was linear i could get that. But you should simply not get a bad guitar that says Fender on it you pay enough for that not to happen. I read somewhere Yamaha has exactly the same quality control procedures for all the guitars regardless of price. Also Hofner with there Chinese production are pretty strict so i have heard and they spent time there so that there reputation (which is questionable maybe) would not be besmirched (now there's an old school word). As someone said above mex,jap chinese fenders should carry the Squire name. But i will add The US ones would have to go up in quality consistency and get rid of those daft pre reliced things. Its almost like buying a pre stressed and aged new car with fake rust and dirt sprayed onto it.

Ive read a few oldish posts on them on a few forums. They sound like they might be a good roundwound for me to try. Not bad price wise either for the fender 7150's Looking for as many opinions as i can get, so if anyone has used them let me know what you think.

Yeah got them worked out now in fact now i know it was pretty obvious which was which by ear Doh!. But double checked using a screwdriver to confirm.

I never knew he had died till this morning seen something from no treble on my fb page. Awesome player!.

What a stunner. Needs to be roadworn/relic ed though i will get my sandpaper... only kidding. The question is for whoever buys it would they play it?, would you play it or keep it in a glass cabinet?. I think if i had the cash and bought it i would play it but only at home and only now and then.

In Squire mustang briefly a mim P bass HB jazz bass (with various upgrades) Squire Affinity p bass Bitsa squire/fender p bass Peavey millennium active Out Epiphone eb0 Squire mustang mim p bass HB jazz bass Squire Affinity p bass Bitsa squire/fender p bass What i learnt is i don't need to play a shortscale what i do need is a thin neck. However playing p basses made me a much better player going back to a thin neck like on my peavey my reach improved slightly. Also playing heavy gauge fender flats improved my strength and speed when i went back to rounds. I also learnt you should never ever sell a bass to buy a pretty girl jewelry!!!!.School boy error on my part

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1420325041' post='2648185'] Mines is Volume top near strings, Blend next still top . Along the bottom curve are Bass,Mid and Treble. With treble at the bridge end. The tone controls are 3 in a row. It's the same set up as the Cirrus. [/quote] Yeah that's the one.