alexa3020

I don’t know if you’re a fan of ashdown, but there RM 800 is for sale here for cheap https://www.musik-produktiv.com/gb/ashdown-rootmaster-rm-800-evo-ii.html I use the Abm range so have no real experience of this amp, but it has a pretty good reputation

Good idea. Thanks

A few years ago I replaced the standard pickups in my jazz bass with Aguilar 4j-hc pickups. The pickup covers have cracked beyond repair so I replaced them with what I assumed were identical covers. unfortunately the hole spacing is ever so slightly different (different enough that the poles didn’t line up with the holes). To get over this issue, I opened up the holes on the covers by roughly 0.5mm. Now I have gaps between the holes and poles. I doubt this will affect performance (correct me if I’m wrong), I’m sure it will act as a dirt trap. Should I try and plug the gaps? If so what material should I use? Alternatively I could go on the hunt for the correct covers, which proved a little difficult last time I tried many thanks.

I’ve gone through various combinations of Ashdown, hartke, Tc electronics, Gallien Krueger, Barefaced, trace Elliot. my current setup is Ashdown Abm 600 evo iv and 2x ashdown 115 evo ii cabs - no tweeters. I’m only 2 gigs in with this setup, but so far it’s the best sounding setup I’ve had. Is it because they’re matching? Doubt it I’ve just stumbled on a combination that works for me (and the cabs were super cheap in comparison to the others I’ve used). I know it’s difficult, but I think you’ve really got to try these head/cab combinations in a band environment. I’d suggest buying used and shifting them on for a similar amount of money if you don’t like them

Worked brilliantly for me when using an amp with a limited eq. Don’t really need it anymore with a decent head, but I’m sure it will come in handy

The BDI 21 pedal might be the best £20 I’ve spent on bass accessories

Alain bought my Barefaced 210s cab. Excellent comms throughout. Pleasure to deal with.

I did get as far as putting the 210 in my basket & going to checkout. There was a disclaimer about additional charges for non eu countries. That was enough to put me off

Im so tempted to get an abm 210 @ £217 - crazy price! I dont really need it - must fight urge!

Might be best to stick with what I've got then. It does seem like my stingray is has all the highs it'll need. My P bass could do with a boost in the highs occasionally, but that can be achieved with EQ. Quite tempted to do the same or get a dolly, so I can move both cabs and head at the same time.

Thanks for the advice. Yes PMT is an option, although I never really find you get a true idea of how they're going to sound until your in band environment, but given that I know what it roughly sounds like already, I can get an idea of how much the horn opens the sound up. I think I'm leaning more towards the heavier cab. I have done the lightweight thing, but in all honesty I'm not too fussed when gigging. There's usually a load of stuff like PA to load in, so a slightly heavier bass cab is not the be all and end all. as long as its not a heavy 410 or above then its usually not too much of a problem. It does annoy me carrying heavy stuff to practice, but my practice room provides a rig.

Cambridgeshire

Thanks Guys. I didn't realize the Pro Neos were sealed - I guess that will have an effect on volume? Just to give you a bit of context, I picked up 2 second hand 15" Evo 2 compact cabs, which to my ears are excellent - real trouser flapping bass. However they are not fitted with a horn and I'm wondering whether to replace one of the cabs for Ashdown EVO IV 15" cab with a horn. If so, should I get the Pro Neos or Standards To be fair the top end that I want is there at the moment with fresh strings - but might diminish as the strings deaden. I'm thinking that the current heavy ABM 115 might be the way to go - its not super heavy anyway. Or I just stick with what I've got. Perhaps the old Evo 2 cabs without a horn were tuned slightly differently because there was no horn.

The Ashdown pro neo cab range have been out for a while now, and I'm just intrigued to know how people find them in comparison to the standard (heavy) ABM range of cabs available. Thanks, Alex

There’s a Peavey mini mega 1000w class D on eBay that you could get for £250ish. I don’t know too much about them, but seems like a reasonably good deal. Looks like it has a load of features though - which I know you probably wouldn’t use

I really didn’t get on with BQ 500. My first impressions were good - a very neutral sounding head, so ideal for putting preamp pedal in front of it. But to me it just didn’t sound and feel right at band volume. Whether that’s a class D thing or not, I don’t know, but it was enough for me to go back to class a b. Of all the class D heads i tried in shops, I liked the Aguilar TH, markbass lmiii & Ashdown RM. The most neutral sounding head of the above is lmiii

I’m sure they do, I was referring to Chinese made squiers. There was a definite lack of quality on the one I tried

This looks useful. Thanks

Thanks for all the responses. thanks for the links to the serial number checker. I did check the serial number prior to purchase, and everything checked out. this is an interesting question and probably another topic, here’s my take; I do think that people buy off photos alone, and with regard to a p bass, it’s probably easier to find parts that look right. Also, there are some excellent squiers/copies out there - perhaps not the chinese ones, but I recently played an Indonesian one which was very good. Every now and then you’ll get one that plays and feels lovely. US p bass is likely to hold its value/appreciate. This is interesting - I shall do my research.

I’ve recently purchased my first ‘pre loved’ bass - a musicman stingray. I bought it off a chap who trades a lot of vintage guitars. During the purchase, the thought did cross my mind - what if this is fake? So I did my research and I’m as confident as I can be that it’s the real deal - but I’m no expert. Probably unlikely, but It occurs to me that if someone knows what they’re doing, they could take some of the hardware off a broken bass, add it to a cheaper body and neck, then sell it off as the real deal. Particularly a P bass for example. I basically checked that everything looked correct (bridge, neck, backplate, serial number, battery compartment, etc). The bass in question is in the link below: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ernie-ball-Musicman-Stingray-bass-4string-3EQ-with-original-hardcase-/384268166122?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Does this type of thing worry anyone else? Was there anything else I could or should have done before purchasing? I should add I did try before I bought and it played beautifully and sounded great (so perhaps it’s irrelevant). I will probably buy some more used basses in the future so it would be good to know if there are any other checks you can do thanks Alex

Thanks for the explanation.

I’m looking at buying a second hand stingray. It looks to be in great condition. However, I’m just wondering if anybody in the know can tell me what the deal with the finish on the neck. It almost looks like it’s made of 2 separate bits joined together. is it normal for them to be finished like this?

Rufusized, by Rufus & Chaka Khan. Heard Chaka Khan many times before, but wasn’t aware of Rufus at all. What a great band & the cover of stop on by is top.

Unfortunately the one I’m using doesn’t have any LEDs. I did have a play around with headphones & managed to get my head round what was going on. So I have a rough idea on what I want. I doubt I’d be able to hear what was going on if playing at band volume though