alexa3020

I really didn’t get on with BQ 500. My first impressions were good - a very neutral sounding head, so ideal for putting preamp pedal in front of it. But to me it just didn’t sound and feel right at band volume. Whether that’s a class D thing or not, I don’t know, but it was enough for me to go back to class a b. Of all the class D heads i tried in shops, I liked the Aguilar TH, markbass lmiii & Ashdown RM. The most neutral sounding head of the above is lmiii

I’m sure they do, I was referring to Chinese made squiers. There was a definite lack of quality on the one I tried

This looks useful. Thanks

Thanks for all the responses. thanks for the links to the serial number checker. I did check the serial number prior to purchase, and everything checked out. this is an interesting question and probably another topic, here’s my take; I do think that people buy off photos alone, and with regard to a p bass, it’s probably easier to find parts that look right. Also, there are some excellent squiers/copies out there - perhaps not the chinese ones, but I recently played an Indonesian one which was very good. Every now and then you’ll get one that plays and feels lovely. US p bass is likely to hold its value/appreciate. This is interesting - I shall do my research.

I’ve recently purchased my first ‘pre loved’ bass - a musicman stingray. I bought it off a chap who trades a lot of vintage guitars. During the purchase, the thought did cross my mind - what if this is fake? So I did my research and I’m as confident as I can be that it’s the real deal - but I’m no expert. Probably unlikely, but It occurs to me that if someone knows what they’re doing, they could take some of the hardware off a broken bass, add it to a cheaper body and neck, then sell it off as the real deal. Particularly a P bass for example. I basically checked that everything looked correct (bridge, neck, backplate, serial number, battery compartment, etc). The bass in question is in the link below: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ernie-ball-Musicman-Stingray-bass-4string-3EQ-with-original-hardcase-/384268166122?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Does this type of thing worry anyone else? Was there anything else I could or should have done before purchasing? I should add I did try before I bought and it played beautifully and sounded great (so perhaps it’s irrelevant). I will probably buy some more used basses in the future so it would be good to know if there are any other checks you can do thanks Alex

Thanks for the explanation.

I’m looking at buying a second hand stingray. It looks to be in great condition. However, I’m just wondering if anybody in the know can tell me what the deal with the finish on the neck. It almost looks like it’s made of 2 separate bits joined together. is it normal for them to be finished like this?

Rufusized, by Rufus & Chaka Khan. Heard Chaka Khan many times before, but wasn’t aware of Rufus at all. What a great band & the cover of stop on by is top.

Unfortunately the one I’m using doesn’t have any LEDs. I did have a play around with headphones & managed to get my head round what was going on. So I have a rough idea on what I want. I doubt I’d be able to hear what was going on if playing at band volume though

Tc vintage compressor fitted to pedal board. Let’s see how it goes

You probably have a point. Perhaps the only advantage will be that I can have it at the start of my signal chain. I probably wouldn't go out and buy a pedal, but given that I already have one, I think I'll have a little play and see how I get on. The TC vintage comp is a copy of the T rex Comp Nova all the vids I have found on youtube are with guitars - Hopefully that doesn't matter. I'm guessing there's no real difference between a compressor for guitars and bass

It’s just basic subtle compression I’m after. I didn’t realise I would find it that useful, until I used it. Now I’m thinking am I missing out on something. Glad I have found the Tc to play about with. The guide from @MuddBass is excellent too.

Thanks for the resource - I'll take a look. Since writing the post, I have remembered I bought a TC Electronic vintage compressor years ago - which I think I still have (will have to do some hunting). I don't know if its decent or not but at least I should be able to experiment with it

Little bit of advice required. I have an onboard compressor on my Ashdown ABM evo iv head which I have never used until last practice. On previous amps that I've used with onboard compressors, they didn't seem to make a huge amount of difference unless you really cranked them - and even then I never really liked the result. On the Ashdown, I added just a touch of Compression, and I found it to be really useful - reducing the dynamic range of the bass just a little and evening everything out a little. Now I'm wondering if I need a pedal, I'm led to believe the onboard compressors on the ABM's are not great. So I'm thinking would I benefit with a decent compressor pedal? The main issue is where should the compressor be in the signal chain? I've always thought rightly or wrongly that it should be at the start of your chain. I have found that if the compressor comes after the fuzz for example, you lose a bit of definition. Unless I use the effects loop, the onboard compressor will always be after the fuzz. It'd be great to get peoples take on this.

I've got a Barefaced 210s for sale in the marketplace 500w - its a 4ohm (or 12 as its switchable) so you'll get the full wattage from your amp. so plenty loud enough if you're interested. I've also got a TC BQ500 - which I intend to keep as a backup - but could be persuaded to sell. In all honesty I am not a fan of the TC & its put me off Class D heads as a result - it just didn't feel right at volume. I think headroom with Class D is really important, so the more powerful the better. Of all the Class D heads I tried the Aguilar TH was probably my favourite. Never tried the Original head - but the rootmasters are decent. I like Ashdown's a lot - particularly the ABM range - which is what I use now.

I tried both amps, the most noticeable difference is the drive. On the RM it is more of an overdrive/distortion sound. if I was gonna go for the RM I’d definitely go for 800w version. I think headroom is really important with class D. I went for the ABM, due to bad experience with class D. I’m very happy with it. there are some good deals in the classifieds at the moment with the ABM 600

I do wonder if the most accomplished musicians feel like giving up sometimes too - wherever you’re at with music, for most there is always a higher level to strive for and someone who is a level above you. whenever I feel like that, I remind myself some of the most brilliant music has been very simple

@BassAdder27 how do you find the pro neo cabinets? I’m considering getting 2x115 cabs

I switch it on (which is out on the amp) in my heavier band, seems to sit a bit nicer in the mix. I find you can crank the volume a bit higher so you feel the bass without it being too overpowering in the mix

It was when I tried both, I realised that I only needed one. it might be a nice to have an alternative sounding cab. Might be better suited to one of my bands too. There are a few lightweight cabs that have caught my eye including the ashdown pro neos & the Ampeg pro Neos. I haven’t been able to find a huge amount of info about the ashdowns though.