Norris

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1448295358' post='2914216'] On my bass i used a terminal with a screw on a ground wire and carefully screwed it on the wood inside the cavity. It made perfect contact with the conductive paint and no solder required. [/quote] Great - that's what I was thinking of doing. Glad it works

The only thing holding the grub screws in position normally is friction on the threads. If the friction is reduced by some form of lubricant or a slightly looser fit than is optimal, the grub screw can rotate as your bass vibrates. The only force then acting are the strings that naturally want to straighten the break angle across the bridge. So basically you need something to stop the grub screws turning i.e. increase the thread friction

It sounds to me (after a few reads of the OP) like the grub screws are working loose and lowering the action on the E string. If so, a dab of nail varnish or Loctite should sort it. I'd be very surprised if the saddle was moving laterally as the break angle on the string down to the anchor point should prevent that

Good progress. I'm a great believer in subconscious thinking. I'm a computer programmer by day, and with tough problems I just load up my brain with the facts and an answer pops up a day or two later

Fantastic!

I ended up getting some "Conductive Shielding Paint" from catmusic99.co.uk I got 3x 30ml bottles which should hopefully be enough Edit: And it was reasonably priced.

Nice work and quick progress too

I'm just going through that on my telecaster (guitar) build. Although that is a complete scratch build - from a pile of planks as well as being my first build of any kind! Tonight I'm going to mark out for a neck pocket template

Nice cheap repair I'm glad it wasn't anything more serious

Assuming that it's not damp from storage (a day or two at room temperature should sort that) it sounds like it needs someone who knows what they are doing to take a look inside

Turn the power off then twiddle all of the knobs and sliders for a few minutes. That should clean any accumulated muck off the tracks. If that doesn't work give them a squirt of switch cleaner (aka electrical contact cleaner) such as Servisol, and do the twiddling trick again. If that still doesn't work you may have to look at replacing the pots

You could do it either way. Paul5's way gives you somewhere to attach the negative wires. Icastle's way would mean joining the two negative wires together. You just need to make and break the circuit. The light will go off if you just cut the positive or both wires at the same time.

SIC - as BlueJay says, my comments were not aimed at you. I'll welcome anyone who contributes to the forum (i.e. chats a bit). My point was that there seem to be a lot of people who don't introduce themselves, don't take part in any discussions and seem to be here only to sell stuff. Being an active member is a bit like getting your stars on ebay and it's not always easy to buy from someone with no reputation. Cheers, Norris

[quote name='A.G.E.N.T.E.' timestamp='1447422525' post='2907557'] [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Kontakt-Chemie-207606091242-Graphit-33-Spray-200ml-87-0695"]http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Kontakt-Chemie-207606091242-Graphit-33-Spray-200ml-87-0695[/url] [/quote] Ooh - I like the sound of aerosols. Anybody used it?

A sad loss. RIP

I need to screen the lower chamber of the thinline telecaster that I'm building before I glue the top piece on. Any recommendations? Copper tape might be a bit awkward to fit so I'm looking at conductive paint. Any particular brands to go for or avoid?

Maybe I was lucky. I used them for the first time last week. They had the cheapest price I could find on t'Internet and the goods (Fender CS '51 "Nocaster" pickups) arrived 2 days later in perfect condition

If they haven't bothered to post a profile picture and/or post count is zero, I close the ad immediately. There is a certain amount of trust extended to regular BC members but none at all to these fly-by-nights

No. I like to be able to play with some dynamics

You could always butcher a second pickup so you have two D/G halves and switch between them. Alternatively something like a 4-coil split Bartolini pickup might do the job. Just throwing some alternatives into the mix

Are you wanting to place the E/A half of the pickup the bridge side of the D/G half? If so I'd probably make the hole rectangular and then make a pair of holders for each of the configurations so that it's a slot in module. Are you intending to refinish the bass? It might be awkward to avoid disturbing the existing finish - you're bound to get a few chips. It won't be so much of a problem if you're using a scratchplate, I'd probably chamfer the edge surrounding the "module"

Yes, sometimes you can spend hours preparing for a 30 second routing session. It depends how neat you want it to turn out

Great stuff. I think I'd make an MDF intermediate template though, even if you use the top as a bearing guide. It would cut a lot easier and be less likely to incur mishap. I'd probably draw round the top and then shape the MDF by hand myself

The Dremmel plunge router is cheap but apparently quite flimsy for any accurate routing. The StewMac (Stewart Mcdonald - US based luthier supplies) ones are supposed to be a lot better. There is another Dremmel product that is apparently better but it's a full routing tool as opposed to a multi-tool attachment

I had to read it a couple of times, but I think the OP has clipped his strap to the top of the bass as it rises from the bridge strap button, near the elbow of your plucking hand. I can see how that might prevent "top tilt" but not necessarily neck dive