Norris

I have another method. First of all take your car to your local weighbridge and get it weighed accurately. Then drive into your bass at a known speed, ensuring that all momentum is transferred to the instrument in question. Measure the speed at which your bass travels and by simply applying the law of conservation of momentum you can then work out the mass of your bass. If you lack the necessary equipment to measure the bass velocity accurately, then just measure the distance travelled by the bass, contact the highways department to find out the coefficient of friction of your local road surface and apply basic Newtonian physics. It really couldn't be easier

The crucial part of any spoon is the angle between bowl and handle a.k.a. the breakfast angle. If too shallow it will suffer nut rattles, causing a lack of pudding cohesion

Through experimentation see how much weight a swallow can carry. Then simply see how many swallows it takes to fly off with your bass

If your bass weighs less than a duck then it's a witch and you should burn it #MontyPython

It depends on the length of the neck pocket i.e. which fret the neck joins the body at.. Certainly it's a measurement to check. And yes if it's a shorter scale neck the bridge would need to move towards it. If both body and neck are 34" scale and the neck joins the body on the same fret as the original neck used to, you shouldn't have to move the bridge

If it helps, air flow is usually measured in cfm - or cubic feet per minute

Yes, so would need to be measured from nut to 12th fret and then doubled to get the bridge saddle position

Could have sworn it was bridge - but then alcohol was in attendance by both parties

I'm in the Cheeze with Danny. Tim is in the Backbeat Drivers with Danny (as well as MT's band). Tim occasionally stands in for our drummer e.g. this coming Sunday and one night a couple of weeks ago

Tim is a very nice chap and an excellent drummer (definitely rates as a musician unlike some!). My guitarist Danny Willson plays in Martin's band too. If it helps you to get the sound, Martin told me he only ever uses the bridge pickup and always with a pick

I never really had an opinion either way on Tom Robinson. However after seeing him play at a festival last year I was struck by what a thoroughly nice chap he is. Over the course of the set he recounted his experiences, the highs and lows - especially when he was virtually banned from the airwaves for being "Glad to be Gay", and later on rediscovering success with War Baby. He wasn't too shoddy a bass player either. It turned out to be one of the highlights of the festival for me

Here - have a close-up if you like

I just drilled a hole that was half way between the inner and outer dimensions of the splines and then pressed it on gently but firmly - once. And there they will stay. If they do come loose I'll wick some CA into the hole, let it dry and then refit them. The most robust way would probably to have a female splined insert to glue into the knob. There again you can over-think these things and it's not like I'm going to hang any weight off them

Amp (covered), multi-fx and lead bag in the garage. A couple of basses under the bed, empty cases in the wardrobe, a guitar or two in the front room. Everything else in the study - 3 of my basses, my eub, my son's bass, one of a mate's that I'm supposed to be fixing... plus the piano, keyboards, electric drum kit, flute, cornet, ukes, and the bits & bobs of the current guitar build. My trombone lives in the loft

"Tis another forum dedicated to guitar building that Andy and I frequent, but I don't want to detract from this fabulous forum

What I ought to add is that the knobs are ash capped in flamed maple like the body, so there was a glue-up step too It's all detailed in my lengthy PG thread

The pots had splined shafts, so I just drilled a hole in the middle and carefully pushed them on

I went very steady with it though. It's not designed for lateral forces. Here's the offcut to give you an idea how I mounted it...

Slight threadjack for conrext (and a little bit of showing off!)

Doh! Double post due to page split

Turn your own out of offcuts. On my Nozcaster I cut the head of a coach bolt then screwed it into an offcut, fixed it into my pillar drill, then went at it with shinto rasp followed by various grades of sanding stick. By clamping an engineering set square to the base plate you can get quite a consistent radius

Tips I've learned... Micromesh used dry doesn't lift lacquer (got the T-shirt too!), but keep wiping it on a monofibre cloth to avoid clogging Press ferrules in with a soldering iron. This softens the lacquer and avoids cracking. However don't hold it on for too long or the lacquer will boil (another T-shirt!) Nitrocellulouse is quite forgiving if you need to fix a dint. Spray into the cap and then paint it on with a very fine brush to build up the level, then flatten it back with the micromesh (T-shirt #3) Nice job btw!

I attend a class in Loughborough Leicestershire. Might be a bit far though. It's more of a club than a structured course. PM me if you want details

I cut about 3 different widths. I'm assuming that your fretboard is fairly flat to start with of course. The micromesh takes off such miniscule amounts that it's not going to affect the flatness of the board. I don't know about T-cut, I used Meguillar's - it polished it up nicely with no detrimental effects on the lacquer as far as I can tell

Ah - the Guitar Workshop in Ibstock, Leicestershire closed its doors for the last time on Monday