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Chienmortbb
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Everything posted by Chienmortbb
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My M2 does have shielding paint in the cavity.
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DiMazio Split P in parallel connection?
Chienmortbb replied to Baloney Balderdash's topic in Accessories and Misc
I have the normal Di Marzio P pup in my Aerodyne and I contacted Di Marzio tech about the wiring. They go against the grain, recommending Log (Audio Taper) pots and form memory 500K for volume and 250K for tone. When I queried this, they came back with "We do not feel linear pots are effective with passive, high-impedance pickups. This is subjective, and you may come to a different conclusion." For the first time I had a passive bass with a tone control that really works, it changes the tone all the way round the pot. https://d2emr0qhzqfj88.cloudfront.net/s3fs-public/diagrams/DiMarzio Sixties P™ Wiring Diagram_0.pdf This is the diagram I used: https://d2emr0qhzqfj88.cloudfront.net/s3fs-public/diagrams/DiMarzio Model P %26 J Wiring Diagram_1.pdf -
Burn and Mistreated were the best Deep Purple tracks for me, and Burn the best overall album.
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This seems to have come from the early days of solid state, particularly car audio manufacturers, to make their very inefficient drivers seem louder. This comes from Ohm's law (V = I x R) and the Electrical Power Law (P = V x I)*, This means that to obtain a power of 1 watt into 8 ohms you need 2.828 Volts, but the same power into 4 ohms only requires 2 V. So by feeding a 4 ohms speaker with 2.828 volts, you magically find an extra 3dB. This trick only became possible once solid state became a thing and transformers disappeared. *P = power in watts, V = Volts, I = Current, measured in Amperes or Amps for short. N.B. Current is often incorrectly called Amperage.
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They seem to be thicker than round wound or flats. Has this been a problem for anyone?
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I hate to be a party pooper, but 28pF per foot is not low capacitance, it is higher than most decent cables. That being said, they have a great reputation for reliability. If you are happy with them, great. However, I think they are vastly overpriced. 28pF per foot is 91pF per metre, similar to Van Damme XKE (90pF) but Sommer Tricone series are 80pF and the Classique braided is 75pF. Sommer and Klotz also do much lower capacitance cables.
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I cannot be sure, but I think Lynx branded cable is Chinese. That does not mean that it is not good, rather that the quality may be variable. It looks like you have some verdigris (copper rust) at the break point that suggests that the braid was in contact with air/oxygen. That means there was a breakdown of insulation at some point. This could have been where the cable was looped over the strap?
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What do you use now?
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Takes three mics, but the Glyn Johns method works well. Works well live too.
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I could not have put it better myself.
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Hoping not to get too teknikal, but it's hard not too. In this case, the Class D amp was current limited. It simply could not supply the extra current required. The Class A/B amp had a more powerful power supply. It had nothing to do with amplifier class. If you put a 16 ohm speaker on both amps, both would probably not get loud enough for you as they would be voltage limited,
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I loved my Thunder 1A but that is Devine.
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Crimson Guitars in Dorset are superb but they may be busy building the new Chowny basses.
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I agree about the gain knob. Mine once got turned up almost full and it made horrible noises. I also got a hum from my second one on the first gig for it on NYE. Turned out I had left a lead in the Aux In, and it was hanging down at the back. Also, the compressor does drop the volume a lot.
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I had to severely cut the bass at our NYE gig, as there is a boomy stage there, but usually just back off the bass a tad. I tend to boost at 450Hz, but leave the top end alone. Using an Aerodyne P/J with the J or bridge pickup on zero. The P pickup full up and occasionally take a bit of treble off with the bass's tone control. Volume I adjust using the amp and rarely after sound check. The tweeter in those Rumbles is not the best, any tweeter is only as good as the crossover. If you look at @steviedesigned cabs, for exsmple the Basschat BC112 MK3, the horn.compressiion driver would set you back close to £100. I doubt Fender pay that for both drivers and the excuse for a crossover. Markbass get a bad rap for their tweeters, but others are just as guilty.
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If it’s a passive bass he will be changing the tone too.
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On that point, where does everyone buy their solder from? My last lot came from Maplin RIP
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Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo….
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The boiling point/Vaporisation temperature of Lead is 1750 Celsius or over 4 times the temperature of a soldering iron. That suggests the fumes are purely from the flux. I remember when lead free soldering came in a Panasonic and the fault rate from dry joints shot up. However I have used both types and personally never has a problem. The iron does need to be hotter though for lead free.
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I understand that, and I can remember when I used to get bored with people going on about their MACs. Then I was given one at work, as some of our products needed software not available on Windows. After using it for about 4 weeks, I got it. I got an iPhone three with some of my redundancy money and have been an Apple fanboy ever since. I am writing this on my Windows PC as when that 2007 MacBook finally gave up late 2020, I could not afford a MAC. I am saving my pennies for my next MacBook, though.😊
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No, it is not that important. Just trying to make our sound a tad more authentic. Thanks for the advice, by the way.
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So in a live situation a delay would help but never quite recreate the effect on the record? My mixer allows me to add delay but how much would help and would some form of echo/reverb be better?
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I play in a 60s/70s covers band and on some songs I feel like they are double tracking by adding a copy of the lead vocal delayed. The Searchers seem to have this on Needles and Pins and When You Walk in the Room. Or is it two similar voices at slightly different times.
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Agreed but it’s only worth using 24 Ct gold. Anything lower has two many impurities. 🤣
