Chienmortbb
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The Mesa Subway D800 is a rare amp, made in the USA and capable of 800 watts into 4 or 2 ohms (you select 2 ohms via a switch). It has all the power you need, is lightweight and capable of some lovey sounds via the voicing control. The EQ frequencies are just right and The Deep switch is more usable than on any amp I have used, so why am I selling? I need some money and this will bring in more than my other amps. It comes complete with the flight case shown, as well as a power cable and speakON lead. This amp is £1100 new. What else can I say? The switches and pots all have a feel of quality, and you can see at a glance whether you are muted, have DEEP selected or have selected the active/passive option by the LEDs above the switches. I bought this some months ago from a fellow bass chatter, and I am selling at the price he asked of me. Here is the original ad form last December, inclusing pictures of the internals of the flight case. https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/507368-mesa-subway-d-800-sold/#comment-5387117 If you would like any more pictures of have any questions, please let me know. Collection preferred, but I expect postage and packing to be about £15. I will charge P&P at cost price. Mesa say of the D800: PURE MESA BLOODLINE COMPACT POWER - At only 5.5 lbs (2.5Kg)., a little over 3 inches tall and 10 inches wide the Subway delivers 800 Watts of power to command any venue from a small club to a large concert stage, yet fits in the pocket of your gig bag! Built around a combination of signature circuits ranging from our classic tube models like the vintage Bass 400+™ and more recent Bass Strategy™ 8:88™, to the MOSFET powered accuracy and mid-focused definition of the Big Block™ 750 and M9 Carbine™ the new SUBWAY D-800 embodies the best qualities from the entire MESA Bass lineage and unveils a unique new voice all its own. CONTROL OVER POWER MUTE AND ACTIVE/PASSIVE switch allows you to tailor the input headroom to your instrument. The MUTE switch silences the signal from the INPUT jack to the SPEAKER output, HEADPHONE output and DI output for silent tuning. Tone shaping in the SUBWAY D-800 begins with the Front Panel INPUT section, which is comprised of the INPUT jack and two switches; a MUTE and an ACTIVE/PASSIVE switch for tailoring the input headroom to your instrument. The MUTE switch silences the signal from the INPUT jack to the SPEAKER output, HEADPHONE output and DI output for silent tuning. Convenient Indicator LEDs are provided on the right side of the Front Panel for all switched functions. DEEPER STILL Still not enough bottom you say… we listen and obey. For all those who need that extra huge Tone, we’ve included a DEEP switch that further enhances low end and puts an unmistakable sub-low component into the mix. 4-BAND EQ Further Tone shaping is handled by our 4-Band Fixed, Rotary EQ Section comprised of BASS, LOW MID, HIGH MID and TREBLE Controls. While the BASS and TREBLE controls deliver sweet, musically useful regions of low end fundamental and top end clarity, it’s the two powerful overlapping MID Bands that allow pinpoint accuracy when sculpting the important attack region and body of your Tone. LOW MID fills in the higher bottom end and determines fullness and bloom, while the HIGH MID helps you define how your sound tracks with the drums and where you want to sit in the mix. With these four controls as your foundation and the VOICING control as the finishing touch, or even vice versa, any sound you desire is only a quick twist away. FIND YOUR VOICE While VOICE controls have appeared on several MESA Bass designs, here on the SUBWAY D-800, we opted for a continuously variable rendering that allows fine-tuning of your sound from a more “flat” response to a radically scooped midrange sound with the lows and highs boosted. This sweep-able version of the VOICING control allows near infinite shaping and let’s you decide the degree of “sauce” that’s right for your individual Bass and musical style. CONNECTIVITY Pro features are abundant on the D-800 Rear Panel and all of your interfacing needs are provided for here. SPEAKON SPEAKER OUTPUT jacks allow sturdy connection to the enclosure of your choice. An IMPEDANCE switch allows you to optimize the SUBWAY’s mighty output power for a variety of speaker configurations and wiring schemes. Regardless of your impedance requirements, the SUBWAY delivers its authoritative power and great Tone in full measure. PRACTICE PRIVATELY, PLAY PRIVATELY. OUTPUT FOR ALL DIRECT OUTPUT - A standard XLR D.I. OUTPUT provides switching for pre/post routing, mic or line level output and a ground switch to aid in curing ground noise problems when interfacing with other gear. A HEADPHONES OUTPUT is provided so you can enjoy the SUBWAY’s great sound without disturbing others. Further inspiration is available for solo enjoyment by connecting pre-recorded music, a sequencer or a drum machine to the AUX Input and playing to accompaniment while using headphones. A comprehensive DIRECT OUTPUT section is included in the SUBWAY’s platform so you can share your Tone with the world of recording and/or reinforcement and provides a full set of options for your D.I. needs. The standard MALE 3-Pin XLR is controlled via 3 mini toggles that determine both SOURCE (PRE or POST) and LEVEL (MIC or LINE) as well as a PIN 1 LIFT option on the XLR to aid in curing Ground noise problems when interfacing with Consoles of all types. -
@Passinwindhas published all the pcb designs on Oshpark. The links are in his article.
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Charlie Escher's (@passinwind) design is a good place to start with that. https://github.com/Passinwind/PW3B-LPF/blob/main/V4 Schematics and BOMs.md
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I have gigged a £1200 bass £300 bass and a £50 (SH) bass. None have let me down. Ironically, the £50 one is that only one that has had no hardware changes, only new pots and jack socket.
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Clearly the PCB need to he redesigned. I have not looked at the output of the PSUs on an oscilloscope but switching from battery power to the mains power supply, I could hear no change in the noise level.
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I took my newly set-up Aerodyne (both my most expensive bass and the one that means most to me, as I bought it with the money my Mum left me). It was a Con Club so no real issues, but I always take it when it is set upwell (7.5in radius neck so very sensitive to slight changes in temp/humidity). My second bass is a Sire Marcus Miller M2. Cost about £400 including upgraded machine heads (hate cheap machine heads). Once it is set up to my liking, I will take my G4M P bass when I am happy with it. It was £150 but has had a new Bridge (£30) and new Wilkinson machine Heads (£30).
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I had a few other jobs to do, and my health has, as usual, intervened. Today was a good day, so off I trot to the summerhouse/workshop to install the new 5 watt modules. I also added the recommended filter capacitors on the DC outputs. I did manage to test it and SUCCESS! I only installed two modules, as I really only need two at the moment. Not only that, but I do have three more PCBs if I decide to make a bigger pedal board. The only thing missing now is a fuse and the fine-tuning of the mechanics of the pedal board. I will add some pics later.
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I wonder whether the X32 rack is overkill for your needs. As has been suggested, there will be a steep learning curve and many features that you do not need. Why not go for a CQ20. You already know the basic CQ philosophy. The only limitation as far as I can see it 6 six outs. That is only a problem if everyone wants a separate stereo mix. -
This! Even the dearest cable, whether speaker or instrument, will be the cheapest non-consumable item in your equipment. The truth is that if we started making Electric guitars and basses in the year 2000 instead of the late 1940s, we would never have chosen 1/4"jacks. For speakers, they have largely been replaced by Speakons , thank goodness. The reason? You can never tell the current rating of a 1/4" plug, and many are rated at 0.5 amp. That equate to 2 watts into 8 ohms or 1 watt into 4 ohms. If you read the Neutrik specs, they say "Current - depends on mating connector." Or, in plain English, depends on what cheapo crap you plug it into. As for the £15 speakON cable? Using an OEM 1.5mm cable and Neutrik or Rean connectors, I can do one for that price, but there will be a £3 postage charge. For £19 inc postage I can do neutrik/Rean speakON plus Sommer 2.5mm cable. Includes a lifetime warranty. You cannot get a decent set of strings for that. Would you trust your amp with anything else?
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The French Connection?
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Sadly I have not had time to check the finish/damage at the rear, but the large specs of dust can be wiped away. -
Price Reduced £130. Hohner The Jack Headless Bass
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Basses For Sale
I have decided to give it one more week, and then I will withdraw this and put it back as my next project. -
Price Reduced £130. Hohner The Jack Headless Bass
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Basses For Sale
All pictures restored -----for now at least! -
I was just looking at another thread showing a bass stack that included cabs I do not like (clue - coloured sound and look). I suddenly realised that since getting an LFSys, I have had three amps. Before that I was changing cabs more than Rab C Nesbitt changed his string vest.
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I believe I have a decent understanding of the principles involved but the first time I used my LFSys cab in anger, I was asked to turn up for the first ever.
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First official outing for the Rebbels as a four piece tonight. We have made big changes, the lead guitarist and I have decided to swap sides. Of course I mean that I will be on the drummer’s left rather than the right. Ironic that as we are playing Christchurch Conservative Club. I am really looking forward to it but will also probably be a bit more nervous than usual. Although we have not rehearsed for 2 months, I did have a get together with the Lead Guitarist on Wednesday to run through a few things. I will try to get some pics to put on the “Howxwss your gig last night” thread.
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It might be worth playing about with the factory presets, although maybe not at a gig. I found the make vocal setting to really add something, making ME sound like I can sing. I also quite liked my bass with the bass guitar preset with a bit of chorus. Although I have used little chorus on bass in the past, the CQ chorus sounded good.
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I had a Monaco and swapped it for a ......Monza. It's hard to compare many makes but compared to Barefaced, you have a number of BF ranges to compare to. Some are coloured, some not, some are full range but IMHO none sound as good as the LFSys cabs. While both Barefaced and @stevie have now a few years making and designing bass cabinets, the important thing is that @stevie has spent decades designing crossovers. He tunes that cabs both by measurement and by ear, then gets the designs road tested before release. AS for high end 112s, Vanderkley seem to have disappeared, and I have covered Barefaced above. You do not say where you are based but try one if you can. Your ears and bass will love you.
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I hope this does not turn into a rant, but... here goes: In general, the main difference between mains cable and speaker cable is that the speaker cable is more flexible and generally has more strands. The good brands are also virtually oxygen free. You will not really notice the difference sound wise, just the lack of flexibility. So why use speaker cable? It's more flexible, less power is absorbed in the cable, and it is generally no more expensive than cut cable. Many sites sell Van Damme Studio (blue). This is a rigid (in comparison to tour grade cable), cable designed for Studio Installations where they do not move. They do a tour grade speaker cable, but it seems to be quite rare. I use Sommer Meridien, for my speaker cables it has even more cores than the others (120+ Vs 80+) on the market and coils beautifully. The best speakers cables won't make you play like a pro, but they are designed for the job. The same is true of many instrument cables, although there the benefits can be huge and the reliability of cheaper cables is suspect. As I make cables for people, I often get sent, or given, faulty cables. It may sound strange, but I learn a lot from them. The first thing is that the name brands often don't make good cables. It is often style over substance, with a posh tweed covered cable attached to a poor riveted plug moulded inside a rubberised or PVC boot. Similarly, speaker cables with Speakons can only be recommended if the speakon is from a reputable manufacturer. Neutrik, of course, but REAN (Neutrik subsidiary), Cliff and Amphenol all make good speakons to the relevant standards. A £15 cable eBay/Amazon will not usually have "legal" speakons. One look at the cost, even in bulk, of a decent speakon is close to £5. A decent 2.5mm cable would probably be £4/metre. So there is little left for profit and postage on a £15 cable. Anyone that has bought cables from me will know I am happy to chat about cables, I have made speaker cables instrument cables and wireless cables (to connect instruments to wireless backpacks) as well as unusual cables, so I now have years of experience. Despite SWMBO* moaning about the amount of stock, I am almost as happy to lose a sale rather than sell something that is either wrong, or where a viable version is available from elsewhere. *She who must be obeyed does not moan and has the patience of a saint really.
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Nothing so grand as a festival for The Rebbels, our first outing as a four piece at Christchurch Con Club, Saturday. We have had no rehearsals for 8 weeks, and so I am a tad nervous, but that is what makes it fun! The lead guitarist and I are having a get-together tomorrow to work on beginnings and endings and other fun stuff, so I may feel better or worse by tea time.
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The spring is free, but my fee is...also free.
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I have asked them to send the spring.
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I had a reply from Tech21: ” Do you know which specific unit your customer is referring to? It looks like it might be a Bass Driver Programmable or Deluxe. If you can provide the serial number that would be helpful. Something is up. The one spring appears too short and possibly the TACT switch separated from the PCB. It's easy enough to test the TACT switch by depressing it with your fingernail. If it functions, you can try to stretch the spring a bit so it comes in contact and or reattach the switch to the PCB. If you can't make the spring work let us know and I will have the office send you one.” I
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In this instance, any switch or contact cleaner will not work. Those tactile microsites are sealed and do not work in the same way as a traditional electro-mechanical switch. There may be a need for some lubricant in the actual stomp button to keep is moving freely. As @Phil Starr says, you can experiment with foam or felt pads between the springs and the switch, but be careful. Firstly, the switches themselves are not that robust and secondly, too much pressure may lead to the switch being activated permanently, as though your foot was always on the foot switch. Use the rubber end of a pencil or even a cotton buds to make sure that the switch itself is still operating correctly.
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Ir looks like the foot switches just push a microswitch on the PCB below. After mechanical switches, microswitches are one of those components that are not that reliable. However, that fact that the spring is not con physically connected to the microswitch. It looks like the spring has about 2 coils less on S1 than S3, although it does not look as though the sporing has broken. I have contacted Tech21 support for advice, but unless the PCB has moved away from the spring, it looks like a new spring may be all that is needed.
