Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Lfalex v1.1

Member
  • Posts

    5,020
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lfalex v1.1

  1. [quote name='Johngh' post='56831' date='Sep 7 2007, 09:24 AM']+1 Your not kidding. I posted a comment on the EB forum about this subject and thought I was going to get shot ! [/quote] I'm assuming that none of them politely suggested getting a Status Graphite neck for it, then?! Following on from which; Phenolic fretboards seem to ameliorate the worst of the dead-spot issue. I'm assuming they're quite stiff and also more consistent than their wooden equivalents. Unfortunately, they're really unforgiving of dodgy technique and lack warmth and any "organic" nature to the tone. Does any wooden fretboard material seem better or worse than any other for smoothing out the neck's dead spots?
  2. [quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='55720' date='Sep 5 2007, 08:54 AM']I've already got a Status KingBass & a Geddy Lee Jazz, so what else? Hmmm.... A Marcus Miller Jazz would be nice... And a Stanley Clarke Alembic Sig... Quite fancy the Billy Sheehan Yamaha Attitude as well... Cool looking bass [/quote] I can vouch for the Attitudes. Don't so much sing and twang as roar and thump! Definitely different. Otherwise; OLP Tony Levin Fender Roscoe Beck (but the pick-up switch has to go in favour of a Volume / Volume or Volume / Pan arrangement) Quite like the new Statii - Pino Paladino or Guy Pratt designed models. Dunno if they're actually signatures [i]per se[/i], though.
  3. Might be okay for an acoustic/electroacoustic. I'd be concerned about the possible lack of mass, allied to balance issues. Are the guitars really 2,850 Euros or did I mis-read the order form? If so, add [i]cost[/i] to my list of reservations
  4. Unfortunately, I live too far away, otherwise I'd come and help you out. I can't do fret levelling / dressing, and I'm no pro, but I'm alright with action/intonation/neck relief and have had to shim a neck or two. I am, however [i]very[/i] slow at it. I taught myself using a solid but cheap and (ultimately) disposable instrument. Just adjust the truss rod [i]really[/i] slowly. Allow it to settle for a while and note how any fret buzz moves around as you adjust various parameters. Look for a balance between your desired action and fretbuzz. Ideally, I run my action as low as possible, but high enough to avoid any nasty clanging when slapped or played (slightly too) hard. I adjust the intonation last. Be aware that large saddle movements to or fro can alter the action a bit! Don't overlook pick-up height and angle adjustments after you've set the strings up. It can further improve or modify the sound to your taste. I recommend a good (accurate) and mains-powered (so you can leave it on permanently while you adjust) tuner. I use a Korg rack-mount (DTR1000) but there are alternatives. The Boss TU-2 pedals I've used seem perfectly adequate, and can run from an adapter to save batteries. Hope this helps!
  5. [quote name='Soulfinger' post='55546' date='Sep 4 2007, 09:18 PM']You might want to count the knobs again. The controls from neck to bridge are: Pots for - Volume - Treble - Bass Switches for - pickup selection (neck/both/bridge) - parallel/series - passive/active/active with boosted highs and lows[/quote] Thanks, you've saved me a few bob by DE-GASsing me. I [i]hate[/i] basses with selector switches for pick-ups. It kept me away from Fender Roscoe Beck sigs, and has just done the same for the ASAT! And I can't be doing with modding a bass to include something that I firmly believe should've been there in the first place (Either a PAN or Volume per pick-up!)
  6. [quote name='The Burpster' post='45582' date='Aug 15 2007, 07:34 AM']Ibanez kit should never be overlooked, or dissmissed out of hand........ These are no exception, Very pretty![/quote] Well said. I find them to be of consistently good quality and good value for money.
  7. [quote name='simon1964' post='56062' date='Sep 5 2007, 04:56 PM']I do wonder whether the whole ''signature'' thing can be counter productive. Take the Fender Mike Dirnt. Ignoring the endorsement, you actually get a really good spec - split P-up on 50s P body, Badass as standard, etc. But I suspect some people would simply dismiss the bass because they don't like Green Day. Similarly the Mark Hoppus, or the Ibanez Fieldy thing. Are manufacturers actually limiting their audience on these?[/quote] Well put. A good instrument is a good instrument, whoever manufactured it, and whoever subsequently lent their name to it (or not, as the case may be!) I found a good 'un. It just happened to be a Billy Sheehan 10th Anniversary model... And Yamaha are as guilty as most with signature basses from Sheehan, Myung and Pattitucci at the very least!
  8. [quote name='presoulnation' post='54592' date='Sep 3 2007, 09:58 AM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220144670707&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=012"]HERE!!![/url] I don't really know a great deal about G&L basses and I have no idea if this is worth what it is being sold for. It is a nice looking bass and I am tempted by it but I would like to know a bit more first, especially what they go for new.....I tried looking for new ones and I am getting a bit confused by the whole "Tribute" thing.....[/quote] I can't help you on pricing, I'm afraid. However... I've long had a soft spot for G&L basses, particularly the ASAT. From what I can recall; There's a few models about. The L1000 and L1500 are 4 and 5 string single pick-up designs. The L2000 and 2500 are the same but feature 2 pick-ups. The ASAT is essentially a single-cut version of the L2000. There's a semi solid version of the ASAT, too. The "Tribute" thing works thus; HARDWARE from USA. Assembled in Korea (IIRC) Almost exactly the same theory as Lakland "Skyline" models. Prices are invariably lower, and the last tribute 2000 I saw had a 3-piece ash body that was not at all well matched in terms of grain or colour for a naturally finished item. The woodwork on the USA G&Ls is generally much better, at least on the natural/transluscent finishes. The controls (on the 2000/2500/ASAT) are; Volume Pan Bass Treble with toggle switches for Series / Parallel, Active passive ( I think!), and a slap contour of sorts. Hope this helps a bit!
  9. [quote name='JD1' post='53445' date='Aug 31 2007, 03:53 PM']Often I find bass controls are voiced too low IMHO - e.g. on the Stingray. Also I've tried a couple of sweepable mid pre-amps (not Ibanez mind you) and I found the band width was too narrow. OK if you were cutting, but if boosting it was too honky. I know Wal's seem popular, but I couldn't get a good sound out of the circuit when I tried one. I've had a Spector, Status and a Sandberg all of which had nice voicing. Also Overwaters have a nice EQ - not too drastic. I'm currently waiting for an Audere for my Fender Marcus V, so will see what that's like.[/quote] I'm inclined to agree. The Bass control on the SR 5 is way too low for me, as is the mid. Hopefully, the 4-band Bongo is a bit better. I've hated the EQ on all the Marcus Millers I've played. They all played well and felt good, but were hamstrung by the clumsy implementation of the EQ. I'm assuming it has little or no basis in the original Sadowsky unit. The Mid-f on my EDB600 is fixed, but very broad in bandwidth. Lean on it too hard, and it's more like a volume boost! The Bass and Treble seem much tighter, but it's the superb bass-mid integration that seals it. The Treble just gives a bit of sparkle, and can help to hide dead/dying strings. Then you slap it and it tries to blow you to bits!
  10. Try; Geddy Lee MIJ Jazz. Marcus Miller MIJ Jazz. Squier 70's VMJ and put a BadAss and better strings on it (but hunt down a 2-piece bodied one!) MIAs There are some MIM gems out there, but they'll take some effort to find! P.S. MIA= made in America, MIJ = Japan, MIM= Mexico. You may also see CIJ or CII ("Crafted in" Japan or Indonesia respectively) Be aware that there are some "nice looking" vintage-vibe Fenders out there. I happened on a lovely looking (new but vintage) Precision which bore "Fender" on the headstock and had no price on it in a shop. I couldn't find any place of manufacture on it, so I asked the salesperson if I could have a go... He got it off the wall, but kept trying to grab it back from me. Bottom line - Mexican ( I had to ask in the end) [size=5]£658[/size] !!! Caveat Emptor, methinks!
  11. I have just acquired an Ibanez EDB600. Pretty good for what I paid, but Oh! The 3Band EQ is amazing. It fits the bass and my ears perfectly. I own 2 other basses with 3band Eq, A Stingray 5 Fretless and an Iceni Zoot Chaser with an East E-pro in it. Neither of which can shape the sound as appropriately as the (presumably in-house) Ibanez EQ. So the thought occurred to me; How well matched to the basses are the EQs? I couldn't say for definite, but I reckon the EQ in the 'Ray 5 is the same as the 'Ray 4 AND the Sterling, Irrespective of piezos and frets / lack of. Isn't it more appropriate that a Fretless, 5, or ERB should have different EQs to complement their sound/purpose? Systems with a Variable Mid Frequency seem like a step in the right direction. The Vigier Passion's system with variable Frequency (but just one band + or -) can be tailored, but rolls off at 80Hz. Fine for boosting the first Harmonic of an open "E" on a 4 string, but in a 5, wouldn't a 60HZ cutoff be better (1st Harmonic of open "B") Please discuss, I'd be interested to hear what suggestions and ideas people have (besides adding EQ at the amp end!!) In particular, any submissions with more adjustable on board EQs would be most enlightening!!
  12. [quote name='Sibob' post='51903' date='Aug 28 2007, 07:39 PM']+1 for Mike Walsh Si[/quote] I've seen a "Funkmeister" body sprayed in the "reflex" (colour shifting) paint jobs that TVR use. He'd done a nice job on it. Personally, I'd favour a pearlescent finish. Perhaps white over electric blue... Mmmmm.
  13. I am fortunate enough to own or have played all but the Deans and Spectors you mention. If you like the "P" neck profile, try; Yamaha BB series or the Attitudes Ibanez ATKs Otherwise, Yamaha RBXs might prove too skinny, and TRBs too broad and flat Most Ibanez may feel too slim, especially up by the nut (SR, SRX, Ergodyne etc) Otherwise, try before you buy! Alternatively, can you alter your technique? I can tolerate all of the above easily enough. I only struggled with a TRB6 as it felt [i]so[/i] unfamiliar. Given time, I'd have become used to it. I only have average sized hands. That said, Warwick Thumbs and Infinities feel odd because of the 26 frets and the way the short upper horn "throws" the first fret so far away.
  14. [quote name='cetera' post='49419' date='Aug 23 2007, 11:33 AM']I hear you..... wonderful times.... [/quote] They certainly were. Nick, Alex, Grant and Chris had a lot of money off of me. And I've still got all but one piece of gear that I bought there (A Russian Bigmuff, BTW) Currently, I'm frequenting PMT (Southend or Romford) and BassMerchant. The BassCellar has always left me underwhelmed. I've never found the Gallery, but I can't be bothered to traipse all the way out to Camden just to go there. It's not like Camden has anything else to offer... Well, not for me, anyway.
  15. Aesthetically - Gold Practically - Black (or predominantly black) I've found that all my gold hardware has worn and gone green over the years, in spite of wiping it down with a soft cloth after playing. The Black stuff is still smooth, clean and... Black. With Zero maintenance.
  16. Ask Freuds_Cat... He's the SVP Pro valve expert around here (and Dood!) Failing that, have a Google around...
  17. [quote name='ped' post='49977' date='Aug 24 2007, 10:11 AM']Hello mate!! You knew it wouldn't be long until I got myself a 5! Mine is number 086 - 23/04/91. That sits between my fretted 4 (15/10/88) and fretless (16/10/95). It really is a dream! The only problem I have had is with the screw in saddles on the bridge - the G string one does not screw in far enough. 5 mins with a file sirted that out! Cheers mate, lets see some pics of yours again! ped[/quote] Your wish is my command..
  18. [quote name='alexclaber' post='49917' date='Aug 24 2007, 07:00 AM']They're the last people I'd listen to! Alex[/quote] Except for the fact that I tried a (Hifi) mains conditioner on my Ampeg SVP-PRO, and it worked wonders. Too big and heavy for gigging, but it gets used for recording... Experimentation is the key, provided you a) already have something similar or have access to one to try out. Then you can decide for yourself.
  19. [attachment=1918:Ibanez_EDB600_rs.jpg] An Ibanez "ERGODYNE" EDB600. Hewn from the now defunct "Luthite" resin, which (apparently) no-one liked because of the tone and weight issues. I am not averse to lugging heavy instruments around. The clarity of tone is unusual, but it'll cut through just about anything, mix-wise. 3 band EQ is one of the best pre-amps I've heard. The bands are spot on, and should be named "Depth, Growl and Air" rather than Bass, Mid and Treble, so well are they voiced. Pick-ups are okay Body's ergonomically very good but heavy. Needed a bit of 'rod and action tweaking, but other than that, it's all good. Pity they never made a [i]hardcore[/i] one, with better Pick-ups and a Graphite neck... Oh yes! The cost? [size=6]£80[/size] Ridiculous.
  20. For some reason, I don't feel myself GASsing for this new Vigier acquisition... What year is it? Mine's Jan 1996... Although it is a Passion STD. I believe yours to be a CUSTOM. (Difference being solid colours over Alder wings vs. Stains/Lacquer over Maple Wings) Otherwise identical apart from the control knobs...
  21. This hasn't helped my ASAT GAS at all, you know... I really fancy a solid one, mind you. I should've bought the last one I played. It was excellent. Still wouldn't mind a comparison with a Warwick $$ though.
  22. Wellllll... I use a Proamplifiers "Demon" combo for home practise. I think it's has about 80w under the hood. It's got a sealed enclosure, and a 1x12" driver I assume it's solid-state throughout. I gather it's mid-80's in origin. Still going (very) strong and sounds excellent (primarily due to it's simplicity, I suspect) It can't cut it against a full band, which is a pity. Lots of people have remarked very positively on it over the years. I've owned it for about 12 years, now. Sorry I can't tell you more about 'em.
  23. AC has it right. I use a Trace AH300 SMX (much like the 1210) and I had an 1110 before that... I leave the EQ off and the pre-shape off, too. With my 2004 MIA Jazz, I run the bass thus; [b]Neck 90% Bridge 75% Tone 75%[/b] The Squier 70's VMJ has a different set of strengths, so; [b]Neck 75% Bridge 90% Tone 50-75%[/b] Those are approximate, but close enough. Has the 1210 got the dual compressor / EQ balance control? I use just a smidge of high compression and no more than 25% on the low compression (just to smooth things out a little and protect the cabs from transients!) If you do have these controls, try adjusting the EQ balance a [i]little[/i] until you can get your sound to nestle in the mix...
  24. [quote name='warwickhunt' post='46444' date='Aug 16 2007, 02:27 PM']Don't luthiers/manufacturers normally go to great lengths to screen cavities from the pup magnets... so someone starts fitting magnets to hold screened cavity covers on [/quote] Perhaps they're arrranged so as to be humbucking. Or something.
  25. [quote name='Alpha-Dave' post='46321' date='Aug 16 2007, 11:53 AM']Wow, I didn't expect to be this lack of response! Is everyone else going to the South East on then?[/quote] I wish... Scuppered by work again. Actually it was the Missus that made me miss the last Northants one due to a hissy fit.
×
×
  • Create New...