Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Maude

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    7,123
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Everything posted by Maude

  1. That's very good of you, thank you. I'll hold off but I might replace more (see above) in which case I'll order some as they're cheap enough including postage from ebay.
  2. This sounds like a good idea as parts are so cheap. I've found a pack of 15 220uF 16v 105°c for 99p and £1.69 postage, so the other two (maybe the same rating, I haven't checked) won't add much to the cost.
  3. Are there better quality ones to go for or are they all much the same. Obviously they're cheap so buying the best won't break the bank.
  4. I also posted in the HPF thread and had the same reply/question. I hadn't even thought why up til now but you're both right(ish). The band I use upright bass in, and the FDeck, hasn't gigged for a few years but we're back up and running and have a gig in a couple of weeks. Yesterday was first rehearsal through the PA. I sometimes use a BBE Acoustimax preamp and put the FDeck in the same case, along with the other power supply. After your questions I realised I'd used the BBE's power supply which is 12v. I guess that was enough to fry it although it's a 16v cap? As I said, I don't really understand electrics, but I'm happy to just solder in the new cap as long as I get the right one.
  5. I started a thread in technical/repairs so I'll continue there instead of clogging up this thread. 👍
  6. I'm following this. You know me and tarting up budget basses. 😁 If it is a plywood body then you don't want to take it back to bare wood. It will take forever to fill all the end grain. If the original finsh is shot then try and leave the sanding sealer intact, assuming it has some.
  7. It's a 220uf 16v. Do I need anything specific or will any cap with those specs do the job? What is the temperature relevant to, the range it's happy to function in? Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance advance for any help.
  8. Hi all, I need a little help please. I have an FDeck HPF which went pop at last night's rehearsal. I'd plugged it into the power and a few seconds later I heard a small pop (from the HPF, my amp's volume was down) and then a few wafts of smoke came out of the jack sockets. I've opened it up and was surprised at just how simple it is inside. Now I'm far from an electrician, in fact I consider most electronics witchcraft, but can happily solder in new parts if it's simple, which luckily it is. I was hoping/expecting to see a capacitor with the top popped open but at first glance I couldn't see anything. Then I noticed that one off them looks swollen and lop sided, but not split. Would you assume this is not right and most likely the problem? I've ringed it in red. I don't know how to test a cap.
  9. I have an F Deck HPF which I had made in a very simple format. It went pop at last night's rehearsal and released the magic genie. I've just opened it up to see if I can fix it and it really is an very easy build for a semi competent DIYer. I didn't have frills, just an in and out, a power in and a variable filter knob, I didn't want battery, on/off switch or anything else, just a simple always on filter that I could tune slightly. This is the insides. If anyone wants to build one I can take some clearer close ups.
  10. That is a fantastic looking bass. 😎
  11. The 1100s has an extra toggle for pickup selection so the knob by the volume is a dedicated tone knob for passive, on the 734a there's no pickup toggle so that dedicated tone is a pickup blend. The treble control doubles as the tone when in passive. I prefer the 1100s controls as your sound is set for passive or active, on 734a you use the tone control in passive and then flick to active and your treble has been moved. Not a huge deal but unnecessary.
  12. Not wanting to put anyone off buying another BB but the 734a is like the modern version of an 1100s, both being active PJ bolt ons. But I think the 1100s is the better bass. Weight wise, not having actually weighed them, I'd say my 1100s is heavier than my 734a.
  13. I like to line my tuners up so they're in line then transpose on the fly to whatever tuning I'm in. It sounds a little off at times but looks good. 😎
  14. A P bass is so simple that I'm not entirely sure what you're paying for with a top of the range Fender, (well I do kind of get it, if you can afford it and it makes you happy then go for it, but you know what I mean). I have plenty of basses, cheap and expensive, but genuinely one of my favourites is my charity shop Encore P. I bought it because it just had a look that I liked and the charity were one that I approve of. I cleaned it up, spent a good few hours on the fretwork and put a Tonerider pickup in it. It now owes me £75 and few hours of my time and is one of the nicest playing basses I've played, and it sounds fantastic too.
  15. I got the KOL vibe, early KOL anyway, with a touch of Strokes thrown in. I enjoyed it to start with but steadily got more bored towards the end. Pleasant enough and nothing particularly annoying, just not particularly captivating either. I'll maybe give it another go as to start with I was liking it.
  16. Not at all, in my opinion. I do like heavy strings though and really don't get on with your average 45-100 rounds, especially when gigging when the old adrenaline kicks in. I had a set on my Yamaha BEX4 but took them off in the end as I was using it as a gig back up and they were too slack feeling for me. I'd say they'd probably be a fair match to an average 45-100 bronze string, possibly lighter feeling. They are quite slippery which I like, they have a very glossy wrap.
  17. I'll give my standard answer but I don't think I've ever seen anyone else use them, maybe I'm just weird. 😁 Fender 9120M nylon tapewounds. I've never used other tapewounds but from what folks say I assume they are a flatwound construction under the tape as they seem to be very thuddy, like a doublebass. The fenders are a nylon wrap over a roundwound string so have plenty of zing but absolutely zero finger/fret noise. I have them on my fretted and fretless acoustic basses and they've been on for years and I've found no reason to want to change them. Plenty of acoustic volume (given that it's an acoustic bass) and a lovely amplified tone, lots of bottom end but plenty of clarity and punch. I love the sound of my fretless acoustic amplified. They are pricey now but I feel they're worth it. When I bought mine they were about £20 so that shows how long I've been using them.
  18. This is a great idea for a thread. I'll be listening to that album tomorrow whilst decorating. It better be enjoyable as the decorating sure ain't. 😉
  19. They use the same neck on the P and J. Great if you like the neck as you can chop and change between p and J sounds without the basses feeling different. And no, a PJ isn't the same. 😉
  20. D'addario half rounds are my go to string. As for when I change them? If they ain't broke....
×
×
  • Create New...