Dr M

For a cheap option, take a look at the Digitech Bad Monkey. You can usually find them for £35 new. BOSS-size tube screamer clone. Great for just adding a little bit of bite and break-up, but can get quite dirty of you crank it, too.

The thing is, different companies treat signature models in different ways. Fender (and by extension Squier) signature models always seem to be a standard model with a minor quirk and someone's name on the headstock, simply to ship units to fans of that player. On the other hand, PRS (for example) signature models tend to actually be something they haven't made before. When the Tremonti sig was released, it was their first foray into single-cuts. Similarly, the new PRS basses are signature models, but they're not a signature version of a standard model. If your Fender signature model is simply Fender's best attempt to copy your go-to instrument, I doubt you'll feel much incentive to actually play the sig over the real thing. On the other hand, if your signature model is an instrument designed from the ground up to your specification, you probably will want to get your hands on a few of them.

[quote name='hitchy64' timestamp='1374442477' post='2148884'] It's a standing joke that it never goes beyond 2, it was mentioned that being able to turn it up would somehow make it better. Sounds bollocks to me, was wondering what you guys thought. [/quote] I think your guitarists may be thinking of power-tube distortion. On really old-school all-valve heads, they did (apparently) sound better when pushed really hard, because you started to get some valve-style breakup in the power-stage. On a modern amp, it's not necessary. On a modern amp with a solid-state power-stage, it's bollocks.

There seem to be more Class D micro heads available every week! The number under £300 seems to be shooting up as well - I wonder if the popularity of the GK MB200 has had something to do with that? Fender Rumble 150 GK MB200 MarkBass Little Mark 250 Blackline TC Electronic BH250 Ampeg PF-350 And probably the Ashdown PiBass when it's released. So what are people's thoughts on these heads? Are they decent light-weight budget heads, or do the lack of features hold them back?

Surprised no-one's mentioned Metallica. "We're going to play METAL!" "Ok, so what are we going to be called?" "METAL... lic... ah?"

Just to get a feel for the processes involved, you could do worse than to just pick up a cheap USB instrument interface and have a play around with various DAWs (plenty of free ones out there.) You're not going to produce professional quality mixes, but to be honest, while you're starting out you're not going to do that anyway. Just like learning an instrument, build up your gear as you get experience and work out what it is you actually need. On the subject of USB interfaces, I was about to recommend looking at Line 6, then I realised their cheapest is now £80! When I bought a Toneport GX it was only £35.

[quote name='spongebob' timestamp='1373991484' post='2143961'] Also, interested in any upgrades others have done to theirs? [/quote] A cheap, easy and completely reversible mod for any Jazz is a series / parallel switch. Opinions vary as to just how useful the series setting is (probably depends a great deal on pickups) but if you're looking to have a tinker, I'd say that's a good place to start.

[quote name='spongebob' timestamp='1373646395' post='2140197'] Spoke to Reidy's today. They did apologise, but said I'd have to fill out a request to return, and probably wouldn't get any response until next week - even though I phoned at around 10am! Bit miffed, so I rang Fender direct. Their UK address is only about an hour from me - they were really cool, and said I could pop in and drop it off to them. I did that this afternoon - chap I spoke to was really nice, and after one look, said it might need a new neck - which may take some time to acquire and fit. Even so, great confidence was installed as it was clear they were taking it very seriously. Now's the other problem - last week, I went down to one bass...and now it's off, I'm bass-less for the first time, well, ever! Lucky there's a couple of weeks until the next gig, and no rehearsals as we're looking for a new drummer. I hope it's not like an appliance that breaks when 'new', you never trust it again and keep inspecting it for faults. I'm half tempted to grab something similar, and sell it when it's all fixed....it's just the end to a very crap week, so my heads all over the shop! [/quote] That's great service from Fender - good to know they're reliable. And if it gets a new neck, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. I don't believe a body can cause a neck to warp! Shame about being bass-less, though. I wonder if there are any kind souls in your neck of the woods that might offer you a loaner for a week or two?

[quote name='Ashdown Engineering' timestamp='1373634615' post='2139932'] The Mi 10 we have changed to 8 ohms now... The original was 4 ohm to get max power in a one cab set up for the MiBass 220... [/quote] That's good to know, thanks for the input.

Ok, the chassis and screen-printing scream 'cheap Chinese chassis'. Guess that's to be expected at this (suggested) price, though. I think the illuminated Ashdown logo on the prototype was a lot sexier than the weird blue panel they've gone with too. I notice the rear panel says 'MIN LOAD 8 OHMS'. So it's basically incompatible with their own Mi10 cab (4 ohms)? That's a bit of an odd decision.

My understanding is that if it's a faulty item - and that is certainly how this sounds - the 14 day return period doesn't apply. In fact, just looking at Reidy website: [url="http://www.reidys.com/index.pl?PageName=Returns"]http://www.reidys.com/index.pl?PageName=Returns[/url] [b] Faulty items under guarantee[/b] [color=#000000][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4]The repair procedure for items which are under guarantee varies from manufacturer to manufacturer - please refer to the documentation which accompanied your purchase or complete the returns request form and we will advise you of the appropriate process.[/size][/font][/color] - I would hope a US Fender would come with at least a 12 month warranty (I've never bought one!) so I would check the documents that came with the bass, and then contact Reidys and explain the situation.

I'm not an expert on neck adjustments, but I've always been under the impression that it should take a week at most for a neck to settle. On a bass that's almost 2 years old, I wouldn't think you should be getting any movement if you haven't changed strings. Personally, I wouldn't be happy with the prospect of weekly truss-rod tweaks. Assuming you still have the receipt, I would return it. You say you took it back for the adjustments - I assume you mean to the shop where you bought it? If they've had to tweak the truss rod twice in under a month, I don't think they can argue with you asking for a refund.

[url="http://www.keymusic.com/en/product/Squier-Vintage-Modified-Jazz-Bass-Olympic-White"]http://www.keymusic.com/en/product/Squier-Vintage-Modified-Jazz-Bass-Olympic-White[/url] Now that I like. Ignoring the description for now (it starts by saying left handed!) if it has the unfinished neck of the current sunburst VM Jazz and the Duncan Designed pickups, I'm going to find it very hard to say no.

[quote name='KevB' timestamp='1372847340' post='2130550'] I have an S1 jazz and nearly always have the switch deployed if I want it to cut through. Not sure how much work it would take to rewire and fit an S1 switch to a normal jazz (assuming Fender or someone else sells the switches separately) though. [/quote] The S1 switch is just a series / parallel switch isn't it? All you need is a push-pull pot (maybe £5-£7) and a soldering iron. It's a dead easy mod.

[quote name='AngelLaHash' timestamp='1369834024' post='2093211'] I have asked this question in Two Forums now and all i get is cheeky comments. [/quote] While I'm not suggesting that the cheeky responses are fair, if you've got the same response in multiple places, does that not suggest that the question has been answered? [quote name='AngelLaHash' timestamp='1369838407' post='2093315'] Metal .. Moving Over a Magnet, in a Normaly Copper Coil making Current [/quote] That's a massive simplification. There are many, many factors that affect the sound of a pickup, and short of dedicating a thesis to the subject, you're not going to able to express good vs. bad as a simple string of numbers. If it were possible, someone would be making a fortune from it by now. To be honest, to get any idea of pickup quality without installing it and listening to the results, you will need to disassemble it. Layout of windings (even windings, over / under wound, scatter wound, etc) have quite a significant effect. Equally, where and how it's made are not the be-all and end-all. On average, the big name pickups hand-made in the UK / US are likely to impress more people. On the other hand, I've encountered pickups from small, relatively unknown builders made using some quite weird techniques that have sounded excellent (anyone remember Swineshead?)

[quote name='lowvoice' timestamp='1369132514' post='2085127'] Then I tried a cheap far eastern hofner violin bass and LOVED the tone. That is really the sort of ball park that I want to be in (however the design is just too well connected to a certain fella from Liverpool - I think I'd struggle to make it my own). [/quote] How about the Gretsch Junior Jet? Similar 60's styling and electronics to the Violin, but fewer connection to a certain Liverpudlian!

Another recommendation for Indonesian Squiers here. Just a suggestion - did you have a chance to try a Squier VM Jaguar Short-Scale while you were looking? Andertons often seem to have them in stock, but not on display. If not, I would highly recommend giving one a go. One of the best value short-scales on the market at the moment, in my opinion.

PRS always used a 5-position rotary, but it looks like they've moved to 5-position lever / blade style on their current models. I think it's a lot easier to tell what position you're currently in with a lever, but I believe you usually have less wiring option available (fewer poles.) My Dad plays around a lot with pickup wiring on guitars, and I remember he always prefers humbuckers in parallel over just using one of the coils. His view is that the two options give a similar tone (both thinner and brighter that the standard series wiring) but the parallel wiring retains the hum-bucking effect. Probably the two extremes for a single humbucker are the two coils in series, in phase, (the normal thick, dark humbucker tone) and parallel, out of phase (very thin and bright.)

I once tried out a Cort in a shop - the E string seemed totally dead, no sustain at all. Pointed this out to the shop's owner, who looked over the bass, then tapped the neck. You could hear the truss rod rattling as he did so. Whether the truss rod had no tension in it at all, or if it was broken, I don't know. Also not sure whether that was actually the cause of the dodgy E. Needless to say, I wasn't too impressed with the bass.

The trouble you're likely to have is the fact they're about one inch thick (25mm). Most bodies tend to be about 35 - 40mm. You'll probably find one piece is too thin, but two pieces are too thick and weigh a ton. [quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1368112231' post='2073365'] Are you sure it's mahogany? I only ask because any wood I've had reclaimed from old science labs (about four labs) the benches have been made from oily tropicals like teak or iroko, both of which can look quite dark red when old and used. [/quote] My Dad's found the same thing, although he's had some success using iroko. It's got quite a nice colour and a similar feel to korena. The grain can be quite deep though.

[quote name='ktg' timestamp='1368112950' post='2073378'] What is their purpose? [/quote] To be removed and used as an ashtray, at least if Telecaster players are to be believed.

It's the Goth rock/post punk bit that confuses me. Or maybe my understanding (what understanding? ) of those genres is a bit out. [quote name='lou24d53' timestamp='1368093536' post='2073027'] Everything on that site these days seems to be "metalcore", "post-core" or "post-metalcore"... [/quote] +1. Since the singer-songwriter I was playing with had to move back up North (well, Midlands) I've been on the look out for something new. I don't know whether JMB just brings out the cynical side of me, but I'm yet to find any ad I'm interested in replying to.

[quote name='SingleFish' timestamp='1366894102' post='2058650'] I've always thought Thunderbirds looked cool as f***. I had one for about a year or so, and did not really enjoy playing on it at all. Found it quite neck-heavy, with a slightly wider neck than was comfortable. Been a Fender man for a good few years now, but will always have a soft spot for the T-Bird shape. [/quote] This. I [i]love[/i] the T-Bird shape, and have done since before I took up bass. I keep tormenting myself by trying them out in music shops, and keep walking away disappointed. Only ever tried Epiphones (haven't got the money for a Gibson, so no need to torment myself further!) but every one has had something awful about it. Thunderbird IV - neck like a cricket bat. Pro IV - tried one where the neck was actually rough, like it hadn't been sanded. Classic IV - strings were a foot off the board, and the bridge was off-centre. One day, maybe, just maybe...

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1365355049' post='2038453'] To me it kind of misses the point of P-basses. Just like posh Teles. [/quote] Yeah, seeing an ultra-posh Tele always feels a bit like looking at a 60's Land Rover with a spoiler slapped on the back.

[quote name='iceonaboy' timestamp='1366386496' post='2051979'] Hard cases are so much better for just a bit more dosh. I dont know why anyone would bother with a gig bag. [/quote] Weight? Try carrying a hard-case with a Jazz bass in on the train.