jrixn1

What is "too heavy" and "don't want to spend a lot" in kg/sterling? How about https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/484191-fs-cort-gb75-jj-5-string-bass-now-just-%C2%A3250/ at £250 and 4.0kg?

Yes exactly that - some sort of mixture of 3/4 and 4/4. There's more than one way to hear it though, so one person might come up with different bar divisions than the next.

I would say that writing it in 7/8 is not correct. By doing that, none of the strong beats is ending up in the right place. My starting point would be putting the pulse at quarter note = 159bpm, and listen to where the bass and drums are falling.

The PA cost £3,000 new, but is now only worth (say 70%...) £2,100. So the leaver's 20% share is worth £420, not £600, and the five of you have overpaid. In absolute terms, the new guy is worst off, having paid £300 for something worth £210. The other four of you have paid £75 for something worth £52.50. Going forward, by my arithmetic the new guy has 10% stake in the PA, and the rest of you now have 22.5% each.

How about pedals? E.g. an alternative to the Tone Hammer amp is the Tone Hammer pedal into your existing Markbass LM III.

I've had a bass like this, and had success with a reverse shim (i.e. at the other end of the neck pocket than a shim typically goes).

As if by magic... https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/485191-mark-bass-mini-mark-802/

Unless... do you mean put a 4-string P bass neck on a 5-string body? Unfortunately no, that won't fit.

I don't think they ever made a Classic Vibe precision. There was the old Vintage Modified precision but it had the same nut width as the jazz (1.875").

None of the cabs on your list is significantly smaller or lighter than your existing Two10 - in fact the Ampeg is heavier. And although the Two10 is taller, it has a smaller footprint. You said "very small, intimate gigs with my acoustic group" - what's the band line-up and type of venue? In venues with good stage acoustics (theatres/concert halls) and listening (i.e. quiet) audiences, I've been using a Micromark 801, which is a 27cm cube and 6.6kg. This is with a 10-piece acoustic swing band. It's a very minimal setup which makes for a very easy load-in and setup.

I've bought a few things from Thomann post-2020, both above and below the £135 threshold. The price paid at checkout is the final price you pay - nothing extra is added by anyone. The outbound delivery process is as it used to be (i.e. takes about a week to arrive). The issue now though is that the logistics of returns take a lot longer, with the courier (DHL) tracking unreliable. So if you do need to send something back, it's 3-4 weeks of your items/money being in limbo, with no one on either side really knowing what's going on.

Active speakers are a great choice, and have the advantages of generally better dispersion; DSP for speaker protection and crossover; and convenient form factor (they can be stood upright or be tilted back). One question is which size to get i.e. how loud you are. I recall your other thread where you said you play in two bands: a function band, and a quiet Americana-type band. I play in a 10-piece (sometimes larger) function band and I use a QSC CP12 active speaker. We generally have full PA, so the active speaker is for the stage sound - but occasionally we don't and so on those occasions I will use the active speaker as backline. I've used smaller/quieter and larger/louder active speakers over the years, but the QSC CP12 is what I've settled on, as it goes more than loud enough, and sounds good. It is very manageable at 13.7kg and a footprint of 35 x 32cm. QSC will also give you a six-year warranty. Brands other than QSC which I've used and would highly recommend are RCF, Yamaha, and FBT. I've used Zoom B1 Four, MS60B, and B3 in the past, plugged straight into active speakers with no issues. It is just as simple as you are imagining it could be. If in the future your tonal goals or tastes change, just swap out the Zoom for another pedal - much easier and cheaper than swapping bass amps and cabs around.

All the previous replies have good advice on sourcing and cutting up boxes as a DIY solution. To answer the question directly about where to buy boxes - I've used the ones from https://www.sellusyourguitar.co.uk/product-page/guitar-packaging-electric-bass-guitars a couple of times. They come in two pieces which slide together to get a snug fit. So at £10 (plus postage) it is expensive for just one box - but the option's there if you don't have time right now to traipse around the local shops etc.

I had a successful transaction with @JapanAxe Thanks Graeme!

Well, you should nearly never actually find yourself playing in a theoretical key - that's why it's called theoretical. Sometimes a piece changes key to the parallel minor, which means the root stays the same and you just switch from major to minor. An example everyone will know is Norwegian Wood, when it moves from the verse (E major) to the bridge (E minor) at 0m32s: https://youtu.be/Y_V6y1ZCg_8?feature=shared&t=24 Now suppose your piece was instead in Db major; the equivalent change would be to Db minor. However, as the screenshot in the original post of this thread shows, Db minor has six flats and one double flat, which is basically impossible to read. So that is why Db minor is called a 'theoretical key' - strictly speaking it is technically correct, but nearly no one would ever use it. Instead, i.e. in real life, a songwriter or composer (unless they are being a dіck) would be pragmatic and use the equivalent key signature - C# minor, which has four sharps and is a lot easier to read. There is a beautiful example of this exact parallel minor change in Clair de Lune: https://youtu.be/FoD_AxKoJDs?feature=shared&t=107 and in that video you can follow along the sheet music and see where the key signature changes at 2m19s and 2m35s.