Jono Bolton

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1446990888' post='2903931'] That would be problematic to say the least. The driver frame could vibrate against the baffle, with the same effect as rapidly whacking it with a hammer. [/quote] When my head was moving forward off the cab, it was the left side moving forward rather than the right side, and that's the side of the speaker that wasn't screwed down. As the screw holes of the speaker overlap the screw holes in the baffle (but don't line up), what would be the best way to secure the speaker in place?

Having taken the grille off the front, I don't believe the vibration is to do with bracing; inside is split into two 1x15 enclosures by a shelf (for want of a better word) between the two speakers connecting the front baffle to the rear panel. There also a T-shaped brace running from the bottom of each enclosure halfway up the rear panel. It all seems fairly solid. One of the screws connected the bottom driver to the baffle wasn't tight and the screw holes on the speaker don't match the holes in the battle so it's not got a full compliment holding it in; as a result almost the whole left side of the bottom driver wasn't secured. I've tightened the loose screw and I'll have a go with the cab at next practice and see if it sorts it. Eventually I'll have to try and sort the screw holes so that both speakers are fully secured in place.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1446485189' post='2899756'] This is what the interior of a well made cab looks like. Few do. [/quote] Thanks Bill, I'd seen that diagram a couple of times whilst researching what I'd need to do. I take it that for a cab with multiple speakers I'd need a similar arrangement around each of them? Also, assuming that the cab is completely empty inside, would the vertical rods need to run the full height of it? I would have thought that that length of rod would have license to oscillate from the vibration. That said, I know next to nothing about the subject I guess if the rods are dense enough it wouldn't be an issue.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1446467948' post='2899510'] A heavy head would be less likely to vibrate atop the cab, but nonetheless the cab panels should not be vibrating in the first place. A well braced cab won't even cause a pint to vibrate off. That's how I test my cabs. Of course, you can't take the results of only one test as valid, only after a dozen or so pints can you be sure. [/quote] Agreed, the level of vibration is way too much, given I've used the head with countless cabs over the years and never had this problem. First job is to check all the screws and joins to make sure everything's tight, and then take a look at bracing. Is it worth running a brace from top to bottom? Would I need one running width-ways across the middle to support it?

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1446469624' post='2899523'] Metal side strips on my old Peavey did just that. I seem to remember wedging them with sticky velcro or some such. The whole grille frame and metal sides were velcroed (or something like that) onto the baffle. It needs to be pushed quite firmly on from memory. [/quote] Looking at it last night, the grille itself is wedged in pretty well, but the part of the side strips that folds over the front doesn't seem to be attached in any way; it's just the part that runs down the side of the grille. I'm sure that it would emit some sort of vibration, but I wouldn't have thought that it would be enough to move my head across the top of my cab. I may do away with them altogether just to remove any element of doubt.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1446453443' post='2899390'] My first cab, nice sound, but no fun to carry up a flight of stairs! As I remember they are on castors, check the cab is secure on the floor. You say there is no buzz and mention no unexpected sounds so I'll assume all is working as it should. Are you using a lightweight amp. The amp sits on the smallest most rigid panel so I wouldn't expect it to shed the amp. I never had this problem but was using the Peavey MK 3 amp which was quite heavy itself. [/quote] The cab has side mounted feet as well as the castors but even when I lay it sideways on the floor the vibration was still present. The head has just been cleaned out and all the pots cleaned so it's all working, but the noise definitely comes from the cab. I'll check the metal side stripes on the grille as they don't seem to be secured to anything at the front so it's possible they're vibrating. My head is an Ashdown ABM 300 which is reasonably small and lightweight, when I got the cab I tried it out with a Mark IV which may have weighted the cab to stop it vibrating.

I recently picked up an old Peavey 2x15 cab and took it down to my band's practice space to use it in anger for the first time tonight. I noticed while I was playing that there's a very severe vibration, especially when playing round the 7th fret on the A string, and a low D (first fret on the bottom string as we tune to C#). I say a vibration rather than a buzz, rattle or distortion because my head nearly fell off the top of the cab while I was playing. Changing the EQ didn't make much difference; I usually have the bass boosted slightly, the middle set flat, and the treble cut back. In terms of volume, both the input and output controls are set halfway. Reducing the volume isn't really an option as trying to get my drummer and guitarist to be quieter is like herding cats. Does it sound like it may just be a case of tightening screws or adding bracing to the inside of the cab?

Replace the pickup and keep hold of the original. Put the old one back in if you decide to sell it on at any point. As said above, a couple of solder joints won't make a difference to any value it currently holds, and any time I've swapped pickups I've always tried to use the original solder where possible; no one will know if it's been 'disturbed'. Edit: if you like sound of the Fender, why not just get it set up to play like the JV?

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1445281806' post='2890266'] He seems to have modded the ad. But £499 for a MIM is optimistic IMHO. Shouldn't this expect to go for about £350? [/quote] If it was a Mexican Standard then yes, but these go for over £700 new, so £400-450 is the going rate for these second hand. That said, I still remember about 4-5 years back when £450 was the price of a new one, so £300 is a pretty steep price increase in such a short amount of time.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1445280654' post='2890254'] Just read the ad and didn't see 'USA' or 'American' in there. [/quote] It's been edited, it was previously listed as an American Standard. Presumably he's been rumbled and changed it. Or he's been made aware of his honest mistake, depending on how kind you want to be.

It's a Fender Classic 50s P Bass in Honey Blonde, not an American Standard. They're made in Mexico. They're also incredible basses, really well made, nice sound and a big fat neck. Price isn't too bad but you can occasionally get them for close to £400. I'd pull the seller up on the American Standard thing and see if you can get the price down if you're thinking about buying it.

My current rig: Squier Matt Freeman, Ashdown ABM 300, Peavey 215.

Tonight's gig went really, really well. We were asked to fill in for a band at relatively short notice, and we ended up playing last. It was only our second gig and the first/last one was a bit of a car crash (set cut to 15 minutes as we were going on stage and the sound was awful), but almost everything was on point tonight. A few folk came up and complimented us on our set afterwards and I think we've bagged ourselves a support at a good gig at the start of next month. I'm just a bit annoyed we didn't really promote it given our low expectations.

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1365092201' post='2035246'] That Ampeg solid state SVT clone....450H?! AWFUL. [/quote] I really like them; the studios we reharse in have them in most rooms and I've never had a problem dialling in a tone that I like. The Ashdown ABMs they have sound a bit crap but I've never liked them going in to Ampeg cabs.

[quote name='ratman' timestamp='1442257932' post='2865599'] The Nano Muff is a single Muff pedal. A Double Muff has two muff circuits, one cascading into the other, when you flip the switch. I wouldn't expect that the newer NM circuit to sound just like the older DM though, as is the case with EHX's other reissues like the QTrons. [/quote] There's a Nano version of the Double Muff which is what I was referring to, rather than try to make a Nano Muff sound like a Double Muff. I had read that there wasn't much difference between the DM and the NDM, but wanted to know if anyone had any experience with them.

Does anyone know what's going on here? The description on the video just says 'Input Cap Mod' but doesn't say what it's been changed to. Would it just be a simple case of removing one cap and soldering in another? http://youtu.be/iioVxfTbgEQ Secondly, is there any difference between the Double Muff and the Nano version? There's a Nano for sale near me for cheap a d I would mind getting it if I can get it to sound like this.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1441637890' post='2860460'] Aren't the Planet Waves plugs all-in-one moulded/sealed affairs? If so, you'll need to chop it off and strip back the cable. Similarly, if your right-angled jack is sealed you're probably better off replacing it with a new one. [/quote] From memory, yes, it's a sealed one. It didn't cost me anything so I'm happy to take a blade to it and cut off the jack and strip the cable. I'll be getting a Neutrik jack off the internet to replace it rather than swapping over the jacks between the two leads. It's the stripping I'm mostly concerned about as the cable it obviously a lot thicker than the wires I've stripped previously.

Background: I've got a cable with a right angled jack that I used to have running from my pedals to my bass for gigs, but I don't use any pedals now and the lead isa bit too short to run directly into the amp. I've got a Planet Waves cable that's longer, but has two straight jacks, and I prefer a right angled jack as the input on a P Bass is front mounted. Question: Rather than buying another cable, is it straightforward enough to buy a new right angled jack for a couple of quid, take the old jack off the Planet Waves one and stick on the new one? Do I need anything specialist to strip the cable or remove the old jack? I know the hot end of a soldering iron from the cold one and I've replaced jack sockets, pots and pickups myself with varying degrees of success.