HazBeen

Only took 6 months, not too bad

Nah, I am not cracking the joke...

I have ............. no ........... words

A well built instrument can transfer string vibration into body/pickups more effectively and with less loss, hence giving more sustain. I would argue sustain indicates effective and efficient transfer by a good neck/body joint, nut, bridge and quality wood. And therefore sustain = quality (to a point). But do you “need” sustain? Often no.

I used to have one in the early 90s. Loved how it sounded and played. HATED how unstable the tuning was until the neck reached the correct stage temperature..

Agree with @Andyjr1515 here, as long as the glue join is good a little wayward thicknessing should not be an issue, and one you could (to a point) address post glue up by sanding. I certainly was not 100% flat on both the body I did for the fretless Status neck nor my current 5 string full build. There is about 1mm difference front to back in both.

I am just a tad green with envy. But if honest I doubt I’d really know what to do with a 3d printer and my builds generally are a rather “fluid” affair (okay, I basically make it up as I go along)

Question @Jabba_the_gut, @Chopthebass, @Andyjr1515 and anyone else who might know. My original plan was to do a CA glue coated fretboard (fretless). But since I use flats (Cobalt Flats or Infelds) on my fretless basses anyway could I choose to keep uncoated do you reckon? Or just a single coat of CA to fill the grain and then sanded. As far as I am aware Wenge is a little softer than Rosewood so am wondering if you would consider it or not if you were doing a wenge fretboard fretless.

I just weighed the neck and body, we’re at 3.3kg without routing the radius, neck pocket, control cavity, pickups and some final shaping here and there. Certainly looks like I will be achieving the sub 4kg overall goal.

Oh sure..... 2nd build and already 3D printing templates..... Yes, I also saw the headstock template. Don’t deny it Just kidding, going to be gorgeous!

Neck is starting to look like it should..... still need to radius the fretboard, but the glue up was fine and trimming the sides didn’t cause issues. Also did the headstock scallop. Still loads to do, but we are moving forward at least...

No, I was hanging from the ceiling when I took the picture. I am a vampire.

Wenge fretboard, stuck to a neck with Titebond and clamped. Now I hope I didn’t screw up.....

+1

Something like that

Crawling forward.... as usual. Took some material off the headstock, ready for scalloping the fretboard and neck. I always take a slice off the headstock first, as then when I have glued on the fretboard I can mask off the headstock and use my spindle sander to create the scallop without fear of messing things up...... done plenty of that already

BTW, I have ordered a Schaller Rollerbridge in Black after seeing one on @spacecowboy's recent build. I love the one of my old Streamer and think this may be a great fit for the fretless too. If I decide to use it I will keep the Hipshot Triplelocks single saddles for the next one.

No matter, I will just flip my bass around when installing. That should solve it 😂🤣

Neck shaping pretty much done now, apart from final sanding.

Hmmm, if it does a close OC2 synth +1 oct only I am buying this. Tracking is amazing.

Pretty sure Warmoth does them if requested,

Moronic to pay so much for a bass because someone famous owned it. I will never get used to stuff like this.

Will sort tomorrow when back, much nicer than I could’ve done by hand.

Am gigging this weekend (have a sneaky suspicion it will be the last of 2020 with the Covid situation) so will not get much done. That said I have secured styrene strips for some semi-fretlines, built a new radius jig and the Luminlay side dots have arrived from Japan. And..... my logo laser cut in black plexi arrived