HazBeen

If you can hear your fan, you ain’t loud enough Clearly for recording it’s annoying in all seriousness.

I agree that a belt/Spindle etc sander is very handy, and I own them too. same as drill press. But I could do without, which is why I did not include. Perhaps the list needs to be “absolute essentials” and “very good to have”

This is a question that has many different answers, because dependent on your design you will need more or fewer tools. Personally and for my builds I could not do without: - Router - Hand plane - Bandsaw - a Shinto rasp - a selection of files and chisels - clamps (for glueing) - orbital sander - Fretsaw - sandpaper in different grits - a hand drill (think I’ve covered my basic needs now).

Should look pretty cool, although it will take a while before I get to that point. Next up is finalising the body shape (bit of sanding), then rounding, belly and arm contour and then the bridge/control/pickup cavities. Then we move to the neck build.

Worked

This always scares me......

It also helps against dead spots and ensures a quick attack ... blah blah

I will sandwich it between sandpaper and parchment, for that textured effect

Lovely!

This looks really really good, a thing of beauty and something to be very happy and proud of,

What do you get if you create heaps of sawdust? ......... a thinner, lighter body. The bass will be 36mm thick. The thinnest I have ever made, but I reckon 6 bolts and the way I designed the body means 18mm for the neck to bolt on to should work well enough. As I will be adding a lot of hardware, I need to keep the weight down. As is we are at 2.3 kg, which means when all is said and done, so final shaping, all cavities routed, arm/belly contour, rounding we should end up around 1.7kg. In the end I think we will pretty much bang on 4kg. Hopefully 3.9, but I’d even take 4.1kg. Still waiting on neck wood, so will likely focus on getting the body all done, ready for routing the neck cavity.

Indeed, I use Slinky and Cobalt Flats pretty much exclusively, never an issue,

Glued the 2 bits together. Will work well.

You think this or know this?

Sounds great!

Cheers mate, appreciated! The volute on the bouzouki Is a thing of beauty.

So the barrel is if memory serves me correctly 12 mm, the end of the new 9 pole socket is 1/4” plus a few mm max, certainly under 12mm. So if you saw off the end of the old barrel jack and either thread it to the size of the new jack output and use it to screw on instead of using the supplied nut OR just use it as a washer (and use the nut supplied with the new jack) that you could even decide to fix to the body with 2 screws. Is it a little clearer for you?

You must nut be serious.

Looking great! Where did you get the Luminlay?

Good call indeed.

I have settled on an ambrosia maple top. It will look better than the walnut I feel.

Basically you need to carve out the cavity. I would use my Dremel with 45 degree angle attachment and a fine router bit. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/575-right-angle-attachment I have used it in very tight spaces effectively. What you cannot get around though is the fact that the original barrel jack hole is larger than the 1/4” jack threaded bit and will leave a gap if you do not use a jack plate. I would probably sacrifice the barrel jack, in essence using the external flange of the barrel jack as my new jack plate. If you make the cavity just right (As I believe the 9 pole one is squarish) you should be able to pull the jack plate tight to the wood with the screw on the new jack, and not worry about it turning. And you can also drill 2 small holes for screwing it to the body. Then should you sell it, you can just but a barrel jack back in place and the outside will look as before/original. I hope I am making sense.