Andyjr1515

Decent thought, @Si600 but I agree with @Chopthebass. If you remember, Si, the Psilos fretboard is actually at body level - and so the strings are close to the body top: That would not be the case in this build where the fretboard sits higher than the body top.

Wow!

Absolutely - never... Looking splendid.

It's coming on very nicely

Those pickup winds look splendid! Nice work with the hand tools

Beautiful, @Maude.

Hi Just a quick run through of a small job I've just finished for @3below - changing the binding and repositioning the side dots on his bass ukulele neck to give him on-the-fret-line dots rather than the existing 'fretted' positioning. I don't have a photo of the removal, suffice to say that it was a straightforward 'warm it up and ease it off with a single-edged razor blade. This was it with the binding removed. The original dots were drilled and inserted through the binding into the neck wood and so are still visible: A micrometer check all the way round flagged that the deepest point of the binding slot was 1.4mm deep so I opted for 1.5mm. A check all around with a small length of offcut confirmed it: Next task was to cut flush the old dots and clean up the channels all round - especially in the corners: Next, with the neck fully masked up, it was the careful job of gluing the new binding . I used medium-slow setting CA glue and did it a few inches at a time, holding the binding firmly against the two sides of the channel with a heavy-duty-glove'd hand until it was cured and then moved on to the next few inches: For the two tight corners, I heated the binding (very carefully!) with a heatgun to get it round the corners without leaving a gap (too cool) or distorting (too hot). Great relief! And it was done. Next job would be trimming the excess and shaping the binding into the neck. So next was scraping the binding flush with the fretboard top and neck sides. For this I used a cabinet card scraper, being very careful to scrape down to the masking tape but not deep enough to dig through the paper into the neck finish. Off with the masking tape with fingers crossed that there wouldn't be any gaps! Big 'PHEW!' @3below had asked for the new dots to be in Luminlay. Happily, they have started shipping from Japan again after a few months of no shipments due to having to fly the other way round the world to avoid Ukraine/Russia. The Luminlay method and equipment is simple, but essential is a good quality brad point drill...especially for the 2mm dots fitted to a narrow binding strip. I use a sharp-pointed punch to mark the holes for the bradpoint to follow. This shows those two and also the Luminlay stick being pushed into one of the two dots at the 12th. After a trial fit, I pop a drop of CA on the end, push it in and then cut flush with a single-edged razor: And after some final tidying up, here it is:

There's nothing at all parallel about my universe! More like ziggy-zaggy with a few loop the loops that make me feel airsick. That and strange flashes - or was it flashbacks - of pink

Splendid! Seagull it is, then

Lovely job

Spot on

The journeys, both ways, were simply dreadful... ...but the Bash was sublime. Some great basses, great playing, great bunch of folks, great venue and organisation and great talk and ultra precise playing by @Kingbassist. Perfect day and well worth the pain of getting there and back Thanks, folks!

Nice job

I would avoid the 8th as that is in the Easter weekend, but any of the others are OK with me at the moment.

A Bitsa Build is a great, great way of starting to understand: the basic geometry and mechanics of a bass; the things that matter; the things where you can take major liberties without affecting anything. You also start to realise (eg with your headstock example) how much of what lots of us see as 'the right way' or 'the right look' is simply what someone did 50 years ago that happened to work OK. Welcome to the slippery slope

Splendid!

It's worth looking at the 'Technical Spec' page for this one and check if it is the same size or close enough (ie a bit larger) to be able to sand down to the exact size: www.axesrus.co.uk/43mm-Bass-Graphite-Compound-Nut-p/43mmgraphitebass.htm **Ignore - this one isn't a 5-er**

#1 Andyjr1515 Had to be number one at least once in my life

^

And very lovely it is too!

It is also so that I don't inadvertently cut the nut too low. The different materials used on nuts file at markedly different rates and on some it is ever so easy to go that tenth of a mm too deep...which is a challenge if it happens. And so I initially file the front edge down to the feeler - which is a teeny bit thicker than my target slot depth - and then do a few final passes without the feeler in place to finish off the break angle and also take the front edge down a smidgen more and to its final depth.

And so, I present to you the 'Maybe Not A Lull But Just Look At That Colour!' or, just in case the splendid Lull team have been following the thread, 'Maybe Not A Lull But Just Look At That Color!'

Ah...but not under disco lights

'Essence of Lull' And, trust me, that's much better than 'Essence of Andyjr1515'

And we have tunes! Still one or two cosmetic things to finish off, but the wiring is tidied up: And I've been able to string it up and play it through my valve guitar amp (yes, I know...). Sounds great and the 'mwaah' of the original has been retained Over the knee it is comfortable with no obvious neck dive tendencies and on the strap. Hands off, it basically stays where you put it: Finished weight 6lbs 15oz (3.15kg). I have an aesthetic tweak I might suggest that would take a couple of ounces off but that would be for the looks rather than weight. So just some final set up stuff and a couple of aesthetic tweaks and ready to pass across to Jack at the SE Bassbash I'll take some arty farty shots when the lighting is better.