tauzero

You could use a switch as an active/passive but it would simply bypass the entire tone control system so you'd just have the two volumes. I'd recommend getting it working as it is first. Then if you should want to put in an active/passive, you will want a double pole double throw switch - that is, a switch which is actually two separate switches, each of which switches between two terminals. Then the audio in from the volume controls and audio out from the jack socket are connected to the two poles, one of the sides is connected to the audio in and audio out of the tone module, and the other sides are connected together. It's a true bypass for the tone module, just in case your battery management ever gets a bit slack.

The music on the jukebox in the Tardis?

Yes. The stereo socket simply makes the circuit switch on and off. When you put a mono plug into the stereo socket, it connects the ring and the sleeve together. So if you connect the battery negative to one (generally the ring) and the GND of the amp (along with all the other grounds) to the other (generally the sleeve), the battery negative will be connected when the plug is inserted and disconnected when it is removed. Hence always taking the plug out of an active bass when not playing it, so the battery isn't run down.

For an 85 year old wrestler, he's definitely doing well. I don't think anyone would take him on to play Mustang Sally at the Dog and Duck. He'd be well suited to a prog band or whichever of the metal types involves 500 miles an hour riffing in unison with the guitar (death metal?).

Whereabout is the transformer? Just wondering if there could be some signal induction from the pickup to the transformer.

I think it does show a stereo socket - two contacts (the downward V and the inverted V) and, to their right, the sleeve. The Darkglass diagram is the mirror image of this so they correctly show the blue going to the tip.

"Input jack" should of course be "output jack". Battery negative goes to output jack ring. Ground and pickup wires go to the output jack sleeve so when the jack plug is inserted, the battery negative is connected to "GND" on the board and the ground side of the pickups. Audio out goes to jack tip. If you want to test it without the jack complicating things, just connect the battery negative, ground from the concentric pot, and jack sleeve to GND and OUT to the jack socket tip.

Has this suddenly come about, or might it always have been happening and you've just not used the OD with it? Any environmental changes? Are you using it in a different room? Is the OD a true bypass and before any other effects? Just a thought, if it's true bypass and very high input impedance, it might be picking up a very small signal because the volume control isn't an on-off switch.

Although the octave appears to be at the 31st fret (so I assume there's 60+ frets, CBA to count) rather than @Andyjr1515's 23rd fret.

Stylophone IT - from the people that brought you Horizon.

Could that be an issue with the neck alignment? ISTR somebody else having a similar problem, rectified by loosening off the strings, slackening the neck screws, and pushing the neck sideways, then retightening.

That's OK, I swapped it for another one with a headstock so the Zero Towers headstock count has remained constant.

I bought my Eko Ranger 6 back in 1984 because it was a good guitar. I still have it. I rather miss the Ranger 12 I used to have.

I realised that there are two valid answers for me, depending on circumstances. My original answer of a James Tyler Variax (probably the 69), but that's for when I'm going out with a guitar to an open mic or the like. When just playing in the house, it's the Eko Ranger 6 which is also the musical instrument I've had the longest.

Just exchanged my Cort GB5 Custom for @eddking's Sei Jazz 5 (with some monetary adjustment). Ed kindly travelled up from Exmouth to Bristol and I travelled down from Tamworth, and we met up in the Starbucks at Gordano Services (breaking with the tradition of meeting in car parks, but it was a rather miserable evening). Everything went smoothly. Many thanks, Ed.

This has been through many BC hands - at least @Gwilym, @bubinga5, @carlsim, and @eddking (who I bought it from). Ed and I met up at Gordano services after an eventful journey down (for me) and exchanged a Cort GB5 Custom and some money with the Sei. The neck is lovely, as I'd expect from a Sei - slim and shallow. It's light and is well balanced, both seated and on the strap. The tuners are smooth and free of play. The bridge is nice and chunky. Soundwise, the Bartolini pickups have plenty of output with nothing lacking. The East Uni-Pre controls are volume/blend, bass/treble, mid sweep and boost/cut, and passive tone, plus a mute switch and an active/passive switch. The blend is very effective. Treble and bass do their jobs nicely, with a lot of boost and cut but very controllable. The mid controls definitely work but I think I'll steer clear of them. The "passive" tone works in both active and passive modes, and in extremis gets rid of all the treble. With any luck, the Basschat bike has found a forever home.

Try getting in touch with Mark Wright - https://www.facebook.com/MarkWrightMusicdotcom He's a former Line 6 employee who does a fair few repairs on Line 6 stuff.

I thought that said "debateable" on first reading...

People must think that the pseudo marketing text generated is better than simply saying it's in good nick and maybe putting on the odd detail like scale length or string spacing. Who knows, for the less discerning player and potential purchaser, this may be true.

Personally, I prefer my Seis to my Corts for the shallow necks. However, somebody with a preference for slightly thicker necks might prefer the Cort. I've not played a Sadowsky or Lull.

The little key is held onto the side of the bridge by a magnet. I've got the same system on a Jamstik Studio MIDI guitar. I've also been looking at headless bass bridges for a 5-string and I'm drawn to the ALP one as it's a one-piece and the thought of getting 10 mounting holes for individual bridge units in the right places fills me with dread. The string spacing on the 5-string version is 16mm and as that happens to be the same as the spacing on one of my favourite basses, that would do fine.

That's a very conformist attitude.

ISTR (from reading, I don't know Rickenbackers) there's an issue with the routing for the neck pickup weakening the body and the neck pivoting upwards as a result.

Someone wanted a medium scale headless?