neepheid

Welcome to the forum, you'll have no trouble picking up knowledge here

Wow, that was quick for eBay - for a change.

They took a 35,000 year old piece of wood and made... a non-offset waist Ibanez Black Eagle. I think they could have made something a little nicer, but hey whatever floats your boat.

[quote name='Dave_MuadDib' post='131697' date='Feb 1 2008, 02:59 AM']My Laney HCM120B has two inputs, one labelled Passive and one labelled Active. However, I have no idea what the difference is between them! Obviously they're geared towards their respective types of basses, but what is the actual difference between the two? Will it damage anything if I play an active bass through the passive input?[/quote] The passive input has a higher gain than the active input - the premise being that passives put out a lower powered signal than actives with the benefit of preamps. I don't think you'll damage anything by putting the wrong thing in unless you really crank it up. The only potential for problems comes from putting an active bass into the passive input.

[quote name='mike257' post='131359' date='Jan 31 2008, 04:02 PM']P.S. I'm currently buying bits to upgrade the Squier, I miss it on stage! Any suggestions for killer mods, or shall I just go the nice easy Seymours and Badass route?[/quote] Depends on how daring you want to be, and how much drilling/routing you're prepared to do! How about upgraded machine heads and a Hipshot Bass Xtender? How about converting it to thru body stringing if it isn't already? How about adding active electronics? How about changing the bridge to something not directly compatible (like a Hipshot A-style?) Nothing wrong with a bit of quarter pound SD action, but for alternatives - Wizard pickups seem to held in high regard by some BCers: [url="http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/shop.asp?category=Bass"]http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/shop.asp?category=Bass[/url]

[quote name='Shaggy' post='131341' date='Jan 31 2008, 03:41 PM']What's the bridge/tailpiece on that EB?[/quote] It's the Gibson 2-point bass bridge with nylon saddles and a string mute it looks like. [url="http://www.gibsonbass.com/2pointbridge.php"]http://www.gibsonbass.com/2pointbridge.php[/url] Used approx 1967 - 1973. Replaced with the 3-point bridge (mmm, stilts )

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='131178' date='Jan 31 2008, 10:54 AM']Ah yes the fly in my GAS ointment. Did you get your SE-2A from Thomann? My SE-3 has just literally arrived... in a box... big enough for Jay to sit in it Aye Vorsprung durch technique like. [/quote] Nah, got it from an evilbay seller in Singapore for £18.99 all in. Sweet!

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='131082' date='Jan 31 2008, 02:15 AM']Hey you! I got dibs on that.[/quote] I thought that your better half was giving you the same look when you mentioned the possibility of another bass coming into the house that she does when you play "Money" more than once [quote]When you coming back round with that OLP? I really fancy a plonk about on it now I'm not under any time pressures.[/quote] Well, I've got to fit the SE-2A first, and that means more routing fun for a battery box! I suppose I could hide the battery in the cavity somewhere for now. I had better keep a hold of it now that OLP has supposedly ceased production of their licensed MM designs: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=12137&hl=OLP"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=12137&hl=OLP[/url] I've got stuff on this weekend, but could pop round one evening next week - hopefully with it all nice and active-ified.

[quote name='jono b' post='130886' date='Jan 30 2008, 07:00 PM']He wants a £20 deposit within 2 hours of the auction close.[/quote] Deposit? It's only going to croak up to around £100. It's not as if there are only 10 of them in the world, is it? He can naff off with his vague descriptions and unreasonable payment terms.

[quote name='minty fresh death' post='130740' date='Jan 30 2008, 03:46 PM']Is there anywhere I can buy just a body, much like warmoth? Doesn't have to be Fender btw! Thanks[/quote] Can't think of anyone that offers the kind of custom approach that Warmoth do. Some suppliers of bodies in the UK: [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Bodies"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Bodies[/url] [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/index.php?cPath=91000_91023&ALLPAR=3d800006d6fb3c7d0a9975c8aa9a0c54"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/index...a9975c8aa9a0c54[/url] And probably others. To be honest, eBay is as good as anywhere.

[quote name='sam88' post='130766' date='Jan 30 2008, 04:18 PM']erm.... GAS? :S you can tell i'm new[/quote] GAS = Gear Acquisition Syndrome [quote name='sam88']i can't stop looking at other models[/quote] As you clearly have. Happy to put a name to the symptoms

A man of his word, and gracious with it. Top man. Would not hesitate to deal with him in the future.

Welcome aboard

[quote name='Bassassin' post='130270' date='Jan 29 2008, 08:15 PM']Good stuff! If you do decide to part with the see-thru Axl, give me a shout! I have a P project in mind that would be great with a transparent body... Jon.[/quote] I'll keep that in mind

[quote name='metalmaniac' post='130237' date='Jan 29 2008, 07:22 PM']Is that a fat scratch on the mongrel? Otherwise, nice planks [/quote] No, it's an unfinished patch. Some plonker must have A) put on a sticker and ripped it off taking the finish with it. That silver sparkle stuff must be soft as anything. I'll probably refinish it at some point, but it's staying the way it is for now. Thinking about getting the guy who does the comedy decals to make me a "Fecker Imprecision" one

As low as possible without rattling? You'll get away with lower action if you have a gentle style, you'll need more if you play hard. No, there's no default - too many variables. I'd say lower away at the bridge, check every so often by retuning and having a little play. You'll need more under the lower (pitched) strings as they're fatter and vibrate more. You'll know if you've gone too far. Check all the way up the fingerboard, low action may seem fine at the nut, but nearer the bridge you might run into problems if you've gone too far. There are lots of guides out there, but in general I'd say you can't do much harm experimenting. Bridge adjustments (apart from acoustic saddles) are reversable if you get it wrong.

[quote name='Stag' post='129619' date='Jan 28 2008, 10:11 PM']why do people dig great big holes in basses to stick new p/ups in them? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310015823426&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:B:WNA:GB:1123[/url] I watched it for a while, awnted to bid.... and to be fair it went for what I think is a very decent price, but with the neck bowing etc I think it might have been "A Project Too Far" for me....[/quote] I was watching that one too. I think the bridge pickup upset me more than the potential truss rod rescue required. Didn't go for it in the end. There'll be others.

Well, here are my bits of wood. [b]2003 Epiphone EB-3[/b] Saw it in the music shop, fell in love with it. Didn't know what I was doing, but in spite of its failings (lack of tonal variety, neck heaviness, 3 point bridge (not keen on it)) I still have a soft spot for it. I still think it's among the nicest looking basses I've ever seen. [b]Perspex AXL Player Deluxe[/b] Bought for a chuckle last year, it sustains forever, but it's like weight training while you play. Might be moving this one on at some point. [b]OLP MM3[/b] Bought "accidentally", where "accidentally" means "put an early bid in on eBay, and no-one else went for it, oops", I'm actually quite glad I did. My first 5 string and I don't think it'll be the last. Soon to be augmented with a 2EQ active circuit, as the standard OLP wiring is poo (a volume for each half of the humbucker that sounds like linear pots - useless). [b]2007 MJN Project One[/b] This has been covered in mucho detail in the Build Diaries. Suffice to say, it's the best bass I own. Lots of tonal variation, lovely neck, nice wide string spacing. Plus I built (well, assembled) it! [b]Mongrel Precision Bass[/b] This is a mongrel P bass made of the following main components: Chinese Squier Affinity body and neck Fender Mex machine heads Seymour Duncan Quarter-Pounder pup Badass II bridge What can I say, the stuff was lying around the house and I was bored one night It's going to have all manner of experiments conducted on it. [b]Takamine EG512CGAMQ[/b] This rather unwieldy named fellow is my acoustic bass. Wasn't sure if I liked it, but after a set of new strings went on it really came to life. Great for picking up at random times. I do find the action is a little high, but I don't want to go messing about filing down the bridge saddle unless I've done some serious research first. Well, that's my lot. They are criminally underused, but I'm trying to improve that *picks up the acoustic as soon as he hits the Post New Topic button*

[quote name='martin13' post='129363' date='Jan 28 2008, 03:56 PM']hello everyone! i have recently picked up the bass after 6 years of playing guitar and am loving it! im pretty sure i want to get a spector legend 4 but theres one thing putting me off... ive played a mates legend and it had really high action and he said its because it produces alot of fret buzz at the 1st couple of frets, i was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this model? and is this easily solved? i love everything about this bass i just hate high strings and noisy frets! anyway... hello again fellow bassists! [/quote] Welcome to the forum. Your mate's Legend probably needs a good setup.

Terminology: Split shaft - have a ribbed exterior and take press on knobs. The shaft is split down the middle, and the two parts can be squeezed together slightly if the knob is a bit of a tight fit. Solid shaft - smooth exterior. They require knobs that have a grub screw that tightens through the body of the knob and onto the shaft CTS - manufacturer of pots, used by Fender (I think?) Audio taper - the value of the pot progresses in a logarithmic fashion (half the travel of the pot does not correspond to half its value). All you need to know is that these are the ones to get, as their operation is closer to what human ears perceive Linear taper - the value of the pot increases/decreases directly with the adjustment of the pot. To human ears, this will give something of an "all or nothing" response. Basically, don't use these in a guitar Mini pot - well, if your control cavity is small, these might work better than standard size pots. Yes, you use the same type of pot for volume and tone (log/audio taper). Seymour Duncan have a good range of wiring diagrams here: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/[/url] There's a sticky in the Tech forum of suppliers of bits. I favour WD Music, but feel free to shop around.

Huh, those kind of stats aren't impressive until you get to the [i]x[/i] times round the equator type magnitude

[quote name='Toasted' post='129161' date='Jan 28 2008, 11:13 AM']I failed to pay attention when ordering a new soldering iron from ebay and ended up with one more like a welding torch than a soldering iron. The bit is about the size of a medium philips head screwdriver! Free to whoever wants it. Otherwise it's going to the tip. Joe.[/quote] Hey Joe Where you going with that soldering iron in you hand? Sorry, that's was painful I might be interested in it. A couple of questions though - how many watts and how big is the thing as a whole?

[quote name='BassBunny' post='127929' date='Jan 25 2008, 06:20 PM']Got mine at 8:45 this morning. Can't knock the speed of delivery. I got an extra 2 twisty things as well. Handy having a couple of spares.[/quote] Spares? Huh. Both the ones on mine were bust, and I split one of the spares when I tightened it (not too hard, I might add ) but it's holding. Can't fault the delivery speed

Later this year, I'm going to build a 32.5" scale custom.

It's all so ... perfunctory.