neepheid

It's got a few gouges in it

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='847282' date='May 25 2010, 10:37 AM']The relic'd look I could live with but I've never seen faked fretboard wear that looks real or nice even. This bass is no exception. Love this alienating line though. [/quote] I've never seen real fretboard wear that looks nice, and yes that includes my G-3

The screw holes will be all in the wrong places on any Squier, relative to a Fender Mex or USA. Fill and redrill is your only recourse (and possibly some judicious alterations around the neck pocket/pickup holes of the pickguard) if you want to fit the one you bought. Not much you can do if it doesn't quite cover the control cavity though. I managed to fit a Mex pickguard to a Squier body, but had to fill most of the existing screwholes and drill new ones, and there was a position where the control cavity would be filled (just), but it left a small gap at the heel of the neck. The alternative would be to get a copy made of the existing Squier one, there are a few places which will copy a pickguard for you. That at least ought to be a reasonable match.

Block inlays. Binding. I don't see why all those skinny necked types should get all the finery.

I did a wiring repair on one of these once. It was green. Not my cup of tea visually, but it had a really nice neck on it and it felt good to play. One of the knobs had a push/pull which looked/sounded like it did some kind of parallel/series switching?

My own opinion is that once a week is plenty. Some weeks it doesn't work out for whatever reason, we don't worry about it. The only thing I basically insist upon is that we rehearse in full set list mode in the run up to a gig. With gigs a while away I've got no problem with using the practice time to jam/flesh out new songs; you've got to keep coming up with new stuff and the practice room is the only place we can get together to do that. Sometimes I do some practice with our drummer, a bit of rhythm section extra homework if you will. It's about an hour's drive to his house, but it's better than nothing in the weeks where we can't practice as a band.

G&L L-2000 uses a 1Meg reverse log pot for the bass control and I think it was labelled C1M as well. You can get replacements from G&L here: [url="http://www.glguitars.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=19&cat=Potentiometers"]http://www.glguitars.com/shopping/shopdisp...=Potentiometers[/url] Maybe a little far to go for a pot, but that's the best I could think of. More digging: [url="http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-20-15S1-C1M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdMMi52izylTGUjbYbj7qlxlLC4Rw6Io="]http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-T...j7qlxlLC4Rw6Io=[/url] Split shaft si vous preferez: [url="http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-20-15K-C1M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdMMi52izylTGUjbYbj7qwXco89NuBrs%3d"]http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-T...qwXco89NuBrs%3d[/url]

Are these EMGs with quick connect? I'd check the link between the two halves of the P pickup.

Tricks? I always seem to be photographed on stage either giving the audience evil death stares or looking like I'm about to soil myself. You'd think I do it on purpose for the camera... Seriously though, no tricks. That would involve multitasking, and I've only just managed to construct the macro in my head to cover having 2 hands doing different things at the same time, mostly in time with each other. Still some bugs in the program to iron out

I've never spent more than £400 on a bass. My head is a Hartke 3500 which I picked up for £140 with a dodgy valve preamp section which I repaired. I'm happy with my lot and I'm happy with the results which come out of my rag tag collection of wood and electronics.

Epiphone most likely do and Tokai Thunderbirds most definitely use an allen key. That's maybe what the sites you mention were talking about.

5/16", I believe. A tool like this would be ideal: [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wrenches/Hex_Truss_Rod_Wrenches.html"]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wrenches...d_Wrenches.html[/url]

I'm a sucker for blocks too. Welcome to the forum

Don't worry, google is your friend and all that: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82046"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82046[/url] According to the American importer of TI strings - lengths from ball end to top silks of 34" scale TI Jazz flat strings: C=37.26" G=37.63" D=37.38" A=37.50" E=37.75" B=36.88" Post is 7 years old though, but I doubt this information will have changed.

Bought an Italia Maranello Z bass from Simon this week - well packaged, arrived safe and well, kept in touch throughout. Trade with confidence

Hi there I'm looking to get some TI Jazz flats and seeing as they're not the cheapest of strings I'd like to make sure I get the right length. I have an Italia Maranello Z which has a sloping tailpiece. The E string is the worst case scenario where there is around 3" of string from ball end to bridge saddle. That means that for the silks to clear the nut I will need at least 37" of string before the silks kick in. Could someone do me a favour and measure one of their TI Jazz flat E strings and let me know the length from ball end to silks? There are two lengths - long and extra long. Thanks

Welcome to the forum

Your sig is getting crowded again mannie

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='BarnacleBob' post='822421' date='Apr 28 2010, 08:32 PM']That Hercules one looks ideal if the stability could be established.[/quote] Load it from the middle, out?

[quote name='hagguy' post='827649' date='May 4 2010, 05:01 PM']its a really shiney finish looks to bright to be nitro, most likely poly honestley didn't think t- cut would work does it not come off on your clothes or leave any residue?[/quote] Like the Irn-Bru - "if spilt this product may stain". You use 2 cloths (an old, clean T-shirt is ideal) - one to apply the T-Cut/do the polishing, the other one to buff the now dried T-Cut. Don't pour T-Cut onto the bass, SECURELY cover the top of the bottle with the cloth then quickly tip the bottle then back to leave a circle of T-Cut on the cloth. Using this method and working with small quantities at a time should minimise the risk of spillage.

I use T-Cut on guitar bodies. I would have no qualms about using it on a modern poly finish. Obviously don't use it on oiled/waxed finish.