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Wilco

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Everything posted by Wilco

  1. [quote name='gjones' post='1219300' date='May 3 2011, 10:36 PM']I think Steinberger headless basses will soon be making a comeback worn right up under your chin. The sleeves of your jacket rolled up obligatory (mullet optional).[/quote] Had to chuckle at that one!!
  2. Bass Big Muff Pi everytime for me. Whatever you eventually get & [i]if your set up allows[/i], put it between your bass & amp instrument input. Run any other effects separately through your effects loop.
  3. [quote name='RhysP' post='1218343' date='May 3 2011, 09:39 AM']I've played one once & it wasn't a bad bass for the money, the bottom line though is that it's definitely a budget instrument. I wouldn't say it was on a par with Japanese Fenders I've played which have all been excellent quality-wise. I think you'd notice quite a big drop in quality if you're moving from that Maverick 5 string you're selling to one of these. I'd certainly try it before you buy it if possible £400 seems a bit steep to me - I've seen them go for £250 - £300.[/quote] Thanks for your post - I did have my doubts about the price for sure, & was thinking £250 would've been nearer the mark. I think a MIM fiver would be a better quality instrument & generally they sell for around £350 on here. I can't see the seller of the Pro-tone dropping the price that much - i'll have to wait until a passive MIM gets posted for sale!
  4. I'm thinking of buying one of these. 1997 model in excellent condition for its age. £400. I've yet to physically see it - anybody got experience of one? I'm led to believe these are as good as a MIM or CIJ 'proper' fender. Does that price seem about right? Ta in advance for any info.
  5. A bump with some spec info:- Two piece American alder body AAA Indian rosewood fretboard One piece Canadian rock maple neck (with a nice grain pattern on the back!) Trim pot in the rear cavity for adjusting the pickup gain Action is very low with virtually no fretbuzz & there are no deadspots either. 'Tis genuinely a lot of bass for the dough.
  6. [quote name='deanovw' post='1211170' date='Apr 25 2011, 08:07 PM']They are very hard to do properly. Usually takes about 20-30 years of constant use. Anything else is a waste of time. imho of course. [/quote] +1 to that. Artificial relicing of any kind just sucks...
  7. [quote name='Rayman' post='1210403' date='Apr 24 2011, 09:41 PM']Beautiful.[/quote] Thank you - plays like a dream too!
  8. These are no longer made, but the Maverick brands reputation was for selling guitars & basses that punched well above their pricepoint. This is in virtually as new condition - original new price £599. Cheers, Wilco
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  10. As much as I've come to love my Hartke LH500, it's a pain that the built in DI out is pre effects & EQ. Stupidly there is no pre/post button & no separate line out jack on the amp. I use effects, so to save farting around micing up my cabs at gigs, I'm thinking of investing in a DI box. To add to the set up confusion, my EHX Big Muff is plugged into the amp input & my other effects go through the effects loop. I'm thinking then that one of the amp outputs would have to go into the box input, there would have to be a through out to a cab, & then the XLR out to the pa. Would that work? If so, what would work best? I'm looking for a simple box that won't colour the sound. Thanks, Wilco
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  12. Oh man, if I had the cash I would buy this bass. That's got to be one of the nicest basses I've seen. Best of luck on the health front & have a 'gorgeous bass' bump on me.
  13. I bought my first pack of Sunbeams from Stringbusters over the weekend, & got to say on fitting them tonight they are excellent. I am normally a diehard Kerly Kues user, but the Sunbeams might just have the edge over over the KK's. Saying that, they are quite a lot more expensive so perhaps they should!
  14. Hi Shonks, I would be interested in a direct trade for the following bass:- It's a Maverick S5 Active in as new condition & a limited edition paint job (as in one of only two made in this colour). Two piece alder body, one piece Maple neck, AAA Indian rosewood fretboard. Low buzz free action, no dead spots on the neck, extremely comfortable to play. I use nicklewound strings & there is virtually zero fret wear. Alternatively, I've got another (the one in my profile picture) which I would trade & give you £100 cash as it's got a few battle scars, although plays & sounds as awesome as the other one. Let me know. Cheers, Wilco
  15. I've got an LH500 with two Ashdown Classic cabs (a 2x10 & 1x15) & play in a loud rock band. Volume knob is generally set at 4 (out of 11, sorry I mean 10!) & it easily competes with the rest of the band. And echoing an earlier post, that cab configuration is way more portable & flexible than a 4x10 in my experience.
  16. Wilco

    Which phaser?

    [quote name='chrismuzz' post='1126478' date='Feb 13 2011, 09:47 PM']Apart from my compressor and sansamp, which are both almost always on, and still have very good bypass, all my other effects are true bypass. I am kind of leaning towards the small stone at the moment, but does true bypass really make that much of a difference?[/quote] I wasn't sure but then did my own extensive test with various pedals, basses & amps & decided there was definitely more dynamics in the sound with the true bypass stuff. For example, I put my Geddy Lee Jazz straight into an amp & then compared that to the sound with only a Boss TU-2 in the signal chain (obviously switched off!!) & there was a difference. The sound with the TU-2 in was noticeably duller (hence I know have a Korg Pitch Black tuner!) Each to their own on sound though.
  17. I've got an LH500 & on the whole I like it. When I first got it, I was a little concerned about hiss with the volume control past 5. Needn't have worried about that as even in a loud rock covers band, I don't need to put the volume over 4...... (into [i]two [/i]8ohm cabs mind). I like it's simplicity, build quality & headroom. The things I don't like about it are 1/4" jack outputs instead of Speakons & I've never found a workable sound with the 'brite' switch engaged. By far the most annoying aspect of the amp for me though is the DI output set pre EQ & effects loop. The whole design would have been better if they had ditched the brite switch & gave a pre/post option for the DI instead.
  18. [quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='1125583' date='Feb 13 2011, 12:27 AM']+ 1 for the Diago Powerstation.[/quote] Another +1 for the Powerstation (small, silent & in my experience reliable)
  19. Wilco

    Which phaser?

    I have a Small Stone & it works really well. From memory, the Small Stone is true bypass & the MXR isn't. Might not bother you but thought worth mentioning.
  20. I'm only happy when playing a 12 string fretless ERB Am I bollox! Seriously though, don't really understand why 5 strings hasn't become the standard. I play my 5 's way more than my 4's.
  21. I liked mine at first, but during the process of checking out a couple new amp heads, i realised that it was noticeably reducing the output of the amps (& yes, i had read the manual & was aware of the level controls etc!). After a bit more investigation, I noticed my sound was also lacking in dynamics & that it was a bit dull/flat That might have been the compressor working but whatever, I didn't like the end result so I sold it. Ironically, I wouldn't recommend it for live use. I can see how it mught be useful on your course though - if you are going to cover many styles of music , the range of sounds on offer from one box will be useful. So will having the tuner & effects pedals all in one unit too. imo , individual true bypass stomp boxes are a better quality sound option, but for a bass course, it'll sound fine & probably will be quite convenient.
  22. [quote name='0175westwood29' post='1112915' date='Feb 2 2011, 07:53 PM']i thought stomp boxes and gain effects can be bad through an effects loop? does the big muff cut the output down like my my muff not used on in anger? not noticeable but it was really bad when i ran two of them the second had to have twice the volume of the first to sound the same! andy[/quote] I think you mis-read my post. From what I can gather:- Compressor first in chain as then that will work on just the basic signal of your instrument which is what you want it to do Distortion & gain pedals straight into front amp input Modulation & ambient effects & the like through an effects loop if you've got one.
  23. [quote name='0175westwood29' date='Feb 1 2011, 09:31 PM' post='1111657'] this is the way im looking at wiring it all up, any suggestions? ive put the bf-2 in the loop with the muff so i can choose to go a bit crazy and to be honest i did this with my old boss flanger and its sounds cool at least to me when it was between my distortions. i know theres a lot of boss but they have never let me down and they always sound good plus they are like mini tanks! not sure what id put on a feedback loop tho? im thinking for weird noises the ph-3 and wah? andy [/quote I route my Bass Big Muff straight to the amp input & the rest of my pedals go through the effects loop of my amp. The BBM works sooo much better that way - I don't know but could be the best routing option for any distortion pedal. +1 for the Diago Powerstation - small, cheap, powers loads of pedals & completely noise free - 1000 for any Boss pedal but perhaps that's just me! What about an EHX bass balls for some funky fun!!
  24. IN:- 1983 Aria Pro 2 SB Special 2 Hartke LH500 Two x Ashdown Classic Neo Cabs EHX Bass Big Muff EHX Small Stone EHX Bassballs Guyatone MCm5 micro chorus Korg Pitch Black tuner Diago Powerstation power supply OUT:- Cort Curbow Fretless 4 Two x Ashdown MAG Cabs Line 6 Bass Pod XT Live (affectionately nicknamed 'The volume & tone sucking box of s**t') And pretty much every model in Ashdown's Class D range of amps ie a Superfly 500, a Superfly 1000, a LG350 & an LG1000 (to be fair the LG1000 would have been a keeper if it hadn't gone up in smoke......) Wilco
  25. I recently purchased a 1983 Aria Pro 2 that has spent the last 10 years in it's case under a bed! As you can image, it needs some care & attention. The pick-ups are too far away from the strings - the bass was stored with the pickup screws very much screwed down, & the foam under the pickups has hardened in a 'squashed' position. I want to put some more foam under the pickups to heighten them & bring them closer to the strings, therefore increasing output. Yes, I know you can buy foam in various guises from various sources that would probably do the trick, but can I find any specifically designed for guitar use - bugger can I! Does anyone know where I can get some? The pickup screws could also do with replacing, purely for looks. Something else that I thought would be straightforward but is turning out to be a lot harder. I've tried the obvious online shops eg Axes r Us, WD Music etc but with no luck. The screw dimensions are:- head diameter 6.5mm, domed head with Philips (+) slot, total screw length 32mm, thread length 30mm, thread diameter 3.5mm - preferably in black, or alternatively chrome. Any pointers where I could get these items from would be much appreciated. Thanks, Wilco.
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