Jakester

So, my odd travails with Reaper continue. I have just been doing some recording of drum tracks, using mics into my XR18 into Reaper. As I was playing and listening to the recording, there's this weird pulse noise. None of the faders 'jump' in Reaper and it doesn't seem to have recorded (I junked the tracks anyway but forgot to check whether it was actually recorded) but in the XR18 mix app it's clearly showing as coming in from the USB audio return - see video (there is audio but it was a phone mic into headphones so very faint!). IMG_0035.mov I checked all the mic connections at both ends, turned off any appliances etc but it was still happening. Never happened before - does anyone have any ideas what it could be (and therefore how to get rid of it!)

I'm going to have a crack at using it tomorrow night as a drummer. I have an XR18 but from what I've been seeing online about using that, I'm considering just using that to mix and using my mono interface using the headphone out from the mixer. Will report back to see how it goes!

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Ah, is it an Alesis Turbo module? That has a parallel port type trigger connection? I see the problem - in which case, ignore me! (Though the double pedal may be the easier way!)

Would you not be better off just getting a 2nd-hand double bass drum pedal to use on the single kick pad? As caitlin says, I would be concerned that the module might restrict the triggering using two separate pads. Some modules do have extra/assignable inputs - I know I had a TD8 (which is getting on a bit now!) which had an extra kick input, plus spare inputs which could be re-assigned.

I’ve just had my Combo Amp II (the combo equivalent of the LMIII) back from Real Electronics for similar issues. They tested it fully and couldn’t find anything wrong - the only thing they could suggest was a dodgy pot so they replaced all of the control pots - might be worth getting that done?

Does anyone have any recommendation for IEM tips? I have a set of Etymotic ER6’s that work fine as IEMs and have done for years. However, the other day I caught the wire on something as I moved and it yanked the left earphone out of my ear but left the tip in my ear canal - quite worrying at the time, but sorted with some tweezers. Since then it’s happened again, this time when I just removed the earphone as normal, which has never happened before, so I think the force of the initial event may have damaged/distorted the tip. The drivers themselves are fine, but does anyone have any tip recommendations? I need a good isolation seal as I use them with drums, so foam tips tend to be out. I also have large ear holes, as I found when buying earplugs for sleeping and the largest size nearly disappeared without trace into my lugholes!!

I picked up an iRig Blue Board off here recently for less than that, so I can use my iPad for sheet music and it works perfectly. I'm using Piascore which has native controller support so provided your app supports it, it should work fine. There's a Donner one which is a bit cheaper - I've not used it but presumably it works in the same way so should work.

I think they also do a dual switch which allows you to change from latching to momentary individually on each switch: https://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-dept/guitar-pedals/footswitches/boss-fs6-dual-foot-pedal

I went through a few 5ers before settling on my current (a Yamaha TRB1005J). The first was a G&L Tribute L2500 - just couldn't get on with 5 strings, but that was probably a reflection on me and my ability, rather than the instrument. Next was a USA L2500 - the neck was much slimmer front to back but I had the same problems. I moved it on because it just wasn't getting used. A couple of years went by and I picked up a Warwick Streamer Standard 5-string, and used that for a while, but couldn't quite put my finger on why I couldn't get on with it. The next one after another couple of years - a Spector - finally confirmed my issue was string spacing - I couldn't get on with anything less than 18mm. So off went the Spector and in came the Yamaha with its 18mm spacing. Basically I wanted something as close to the same spacing as the 4-strings I have, and to date it seems to have worked. I use the Yamaha for most things - the low B is getting more use, particular on stuff arranged by friends who don't realise that a 4-string doesn't go below E! I still occasionally use the 4-strings but the advice on here was to focus on using the 5er until it becomes natural. So you may find yourself chopping and changing a bit until you find one that works. Obviously going to try is best but even with sitting in a shop it's not until you really get some playing into it that you realise whether or not it works for you.

Thanks - I will get practicing then!

Complete DB noob here - I have been messing about with a Stagg EUB for a while because a lot of the tunes I play in our orchestra are 'swingy' or call for that DB sound on more classical parts - and plus it's just fun. The vast majority of the stuff I play is pizzicato anyway so I can muddle through. I had hoped to get some lessons but lockdown put paid to that. So I've been winging it - I picked up a cheap bow from here (I think German?) and a cellist friend showed me how to make a noise but that's it. TBH I've mostly played it all on electric bass but I have a Christmas busking gig coming up (outdoors and we're in Tier2!) so fancied taking the EUB along with the electric. One tune however has an intro which relies on six bars of tied whole notes, bowed. I can just about get a single bow stroke to cover two bars, but when I reach the end of the stroke there's always a 'jerk' as I draw the bow back the other way, which obviously interrupts the smooth tied note. What's the technique for switching between the up and down bow strokes without there being a noticeable 'jump' - or is it just practice?

Just to get a basic issue out of the way first, the specs say it's 12v 2W - are you sure you're using a 12v rather than 9v, and that you've got enough current available to it? I only ask as I've done that in the past... 🙄

😱 Scary!

Oof, that is lovely!

No real comment on the board (other than to say good review and say "what?" about the Boss height thing) but you have given me an epiphany - I have loads of those velcro cable ties and to date I've been using actual cable ties on my pedal board - not ideal when you're constantly moving things around (as I have been recently). But instead I can use those velcro jobbies and not have to cut cable ties off all the time! So thanks!

I haven't played a Fallout specifically, but I've owned both USA and Tribute G&Ls and specific 'custom' features such as finishes aside, I struggled to tell the difference between them.

As a fellow drummer-turned bassist, welcome! Firstly, forgive me if I'm misreading, but it's not entirely clear why you're considering a cab sim - is it just for recording? If so, wouldn't a plugin work? If it's for live performance, exactly what are you looking to achieve? Do you want the same sound on stage as FOH? I presume not as you're using effects too (an idea of what effects you're using might be helpful). Do you want to be able to balance the effected and clean sounds live?