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Jakester

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Everything posted by Jakester

  1. Actually, looking further into it it's 'one effect at a time', rather than the Stomp 'create a patch', so would just be like putting a different stompbox on the board each time. What I was hoping the Stomp could do would be to have electric bass patches e.g. 'normal', 'drive', 'synth', 'octave' etc but each one also have the same preamp, eq (as appropriate), parallel clean (switchable?) DB channel into the shared HPF and compressor then into the amp, so basically cutting down on all the other pedals. Seems like the HX One is a much smaller version of the HX FX.
  2. Actually, having read the above, and looked into it a little more, I reckon a HX One would do the job perfectly as I wouldn’t be looking for the amp sims or IRs. Interesting… <edit> actually, looks like you may not get the dual input control that you could get with the Stomp. Still, might be good to replace some of the separate effects after the Tonebone.
  3. Ah, decisions, decisions. I have a pedalboard setup that I'm happy with, and that can just about cover most things I'm called to play. However, it's got quite a few pedals on it, some of which are only ever used once or twice a year. There's also the inevitable faff if a cable comes loose, or you get an unknown buzz etc etc. I'd idly been thinking about whether I could simplify everything by using a Stomp and setting up patches equivalent to the pedals I use now. So far, so straightforward? Well. I also double on DB at the same gig, and sometimes during the same song. The songs that do use effects use chorus, or octave, or dirty synth sounds. Current setup as follows: Tonebone OD --> C4 --> Whammy Ricochet -> EHX Freeze -> SFX Micro Thumpinator --> Keely Bassist I have a DMC Micro connected to the C4 to change the patches. I tend to use the OD on the Tonebone if needed, though I have some grindy patches on the C4; it also does a good chorus, octaver and synth (natch!) if needed. The Freeze is good for sustained pedaled notes where I'm not on the DB, and the Ricochet is useful if I'm using a different patch on the C4 and need to go octave up or down (and also can be fun of itself for fills etc). What I'd probably need to do with a Stomp is set up two parallel paths using the L/R inputs; one with the effects etc for the electric bass, and one straight thru/or with EQ and HPF for the DB, and then combine them out to the amp (possibly with a compressor). Would a Stomp be able to do all of those things in a user-friendly package? I'm guessing the HPF would be able to be inserted anywhere (instead of where it fits on the pedalboard!), and I could use the DMC Micro to change patches as do now. Or am I just looking for a shiny new toy and if it ain't broke, don't fix it?
  4. Bought a Stanley Clarke CD from Mick - great communication, and arrived quickly fine. And it's a great CD too!
  5. Let’s hope no hide glue or bone was used in the construction of his guitar!
  6. I did wonder how they could actually coordinate rehearsals, as no-one will want to be tracked by 'the man' by using their phones, and presumably using powered speakers is out as a result of the effects of electromagnetic fields... I think the prospects of "a gig" would seem pretty remote!
  7. I found mine is very sensitive to any noise in the signal chain; I mean, I know how a compressor works and it is certainly way better than the TC Electronic one it replaced, but I was using more gain owing to a change in preamp pedal (it only has ‘cut’ eq, no boost) and over 12 o’clock on the Keeley gain it really magnified a *very* slight hiss. Took me ages to figure out what it was, too 🙄
  8. From the manual: "4.4 Strobe mode In Strobe mode, the difference between the correct (target) frequency and the actual detected frequency is displayed by twoi ndicators simultaneously: 1. Red LEDs to the left (pitch too low)or tot he right (pitch to high)of the center LED column 2. Rotating segments in the display. The closer the detected frequency is to the target frequency, the slower the rotation. Tune the string until the rotating pattern has come to a stop and only the middle column of green LED lights up." You did read the manual, right? 😉
  9. I see quite a few venue cancellations on the various FB pages - Somerset musicians, Bath musicians, Bristol musicians etc - you get the idea! Definitely saw at least one today: https://www.facebook.com/groups/bristolmusic/posts/7337323739640067/
  10. Thankfully managed to get my hands on an Xvive U4 wireless IEM from a friend which seems to be doing the job!
  11. Totally random question - I’m doing a musical and the band can’t hear the cast vocals. The venue doesn’t appear to have any wired in throughputs from the tech booth to backstage and it’s too far for cables (and for a few nights). The digital desk has a load of unused aux outs and I presume we could get a feed of vocals out if needed. One idea was to use a wireless IEM system to get the aux out to a monitor backstage at v low volume, but we have no budget and I don’t have a system. I was wondering whether I could use my wireless bass system to send the signal instead. Is there any reason not to use it (range notwithstanding)? I mean frequency wise etc. Assume I have all the right cables to convert jacks to XLRs etc.
  12. Sorry, that was directed at Owen - I misread his first post and thought he said he was using compression, but he said he's going to experiment with some compression.
  13. Thirded. Could it be your compression is too heavy and it’s squashing the arco much more than the pizz?
  14. Thanks. Worth knowing a dedicated spray place could add a tinted poly. I suspect it's a 2K as the previous owner told me it was clear coated by a car spray place. Some good advice there, thanks v much.
  15. Thanks - I only ask about the Osmo as I have some knocking around that would give the perfect tint. Sounds like you’ve prevented a very messy mistake though, thank you!
  16. So, say someone has just acquired something that had been professionally finished in a polyurethane clear coat which didn't match something else which has aged due to a nitrocellulose clear coat. Short of stripping off the poly in its entirety, tinting and then refinishing (either in poly or nitro) is there any way of 'tinting' the poly finish? For example, is it possible to shoot a tinted poly clear coat on top? (I know poly coats stay separate when cured, unlike nitro ones which 'blend' into one another). Does such a product exist? I know you can get tinted nitro clear coat for 'aging' guitars - is there a poly equivalent? Could I just spray tinted nitro on top of the poly (taking all necessary safety precautions of course)? Could I just wipe on something like a tinted Osmo oil? Would that cure on top of poly?
  17. Rehearsals sound like they'd be a laugh...
  18. I have no need for this whatsoever. I want it so much though!
  19. Hurrah! Good news, everybody! As @Matt P suggested, it seems there is a captive nut on the underside, and on closer investigation for some reason the screw had simply come undone to the point it could pull out of the nut. Thankfully it would still thread and so all it needed was screwing back into place, this time with a judicious application of Loctite. Hopefully that will hold it! Also did the other one at the same time. Fingers crossed!
  20. Likewise, I have one of these - branded VonHaus or something, was about £15. I can manage combo amp + extension cab , gear bag, pedals all on it (I use a bungee around the axle) so it can make it one trip from the car (if I’m not playing DB!).
  21. Thanks for the heads up - haven’t had a chance to check yet but will do.
  22. Thanks - I have some dowels so should be reasonably straightforward (he says...). Watch in a week or so for a CMD121P going cheap because the handle spontaneously caught fire..!
  23. Not seen this before! Carrying my MB CMD121P back to the car after playing, one of the handle mounting screws suddenly parted ways with the body of the cab, leaving the combo dangling from the other end. Never seen this happen to any other cab! And it continues my run of bad luck with MB stuff… Has anyone had this happen to them, and if so, how did you fix it? I haven’t been able to look at it in detail (it was dark) but the pitch of the screw seemed pretty fine for something supposed to grip into wood. I was thinking I could either pack the hole with epoxy filler and screw it back in, and hope that it holds it when cured - or fill the hole (either with aforementioned epoxy or a dowel) and use a more aggro screw. Thoughts?
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