obbm

Black Mirror White Pearl - matches the inlay blocks.

[center]Friday 29th February 2008 for one night only Bourne British legion 83 Burnt Hill Road Farnham Surrey GU10 3LL [size=5][font="Times New Roman"]MKB[/font][/size] the original Micky Kemp Band (circa. 2000-2002) plus [size=4]New York Public Library[/size] We just fancied getting together and playing some of the early MK numbers, some Bruce, etc. Admission free [url="http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?pc=GU103LL&cat=pub"]Map[/url] [/center]

[quote name='mhuk' post='140242' date='Feb 14 2008, 12:42 PM']Are there requirements/ suggestions for the lead between a pre and power amp? Is unshielded cable OK (the same that I use to make XLR leads between the pre and power amps in my hifi)?[/quote] No, no, no, no,no. It must be shielded Unbalanced - Good quality instrument cable Balanced - Screened pair (mic cable)

[quote name='mhuk' post='139937' date='Feb 13 2008, 10:57 PM']2.5 sq.mm per core or overall?[/quote] per core. The Americans reckon 12-gauge but there is no direct metric equivalent. 4 sq.mm. is the nearest.

QUOTE (Hamster @ Feb 13 2008, 01:16 PM) Is your price list the same as the one on your website - or is there a BC'ers price list with massive discounts? Hamster Nice one Hammy. What's on the web site is the current list however list is really there as a guide. I do have some room to move on some items for BCers depending on method of payment, etc. so the best thing to do is contact me and I'll see what I can do.

I used to use an IEC distribution strip but then I got to thinking about it and came to the conclusion that for simplicity and security 13-Amp was the way to go. 1. Every item of equipment is separately fused at its plug. 2. You can plug-in 13A wallwort power supplies directly. 3. If you have a cable problem it's a lot lot easier to find a 13-Amp to IEC than an IEC to IEC cable. 4. If borrow/hire any extra kit then the chances are it'll have a 13-Amp lead with it. 5. Other band members can plug into the back of your rack. Spare moulded 13-Amp to IEC cables are very cheap. Go to B&Q or similar, buy some 13-Amp plugs, cut the moulded cables to suit and fit the 13-Amp plugs. Neat and tidy rack. UK standard.

Al, I've been using a 13-amp dis block mounted on a blank panel for a while now but I'm thinking about getting one of [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120221205520"]these[/url] They are a very reputable company and are a subsiduary of an organisation that makes a lot of patch panels, jackfields and Outside Broadcast Truck power distribution systems for the broadcast industry.

[quote name='Muppet' post='138427' date='Feb 11 2008, 07:38 PM']Nice Dave!!! Didn't you have one similar a while ago (maybe not soo bright) ?[/quote] You must be thinking of the '96 Pink Fender Jazz that I got in a swap with Nash for my old black MIJ Precision. I'm keeping that one for my Grand-daughter.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='138401' date='Feb 11 2008, 06:58 PM']The finish is really nice though isnt it? I wasnt expecting sparkle. The pics on the Lakland site dont do it justice.[/quote] It's very cool and no the pictures don't do it justice. I've tried a black mirror and a white pearl scratch plate and can't make my mind up which is best. As for the neck, it is one of the best I've played. Slim, shallow and easy, a bit of a blonde really.

Bought for the princely sum of £41. 31.75-inch scale, 19.5-mm spacing at the bridge. Chunky but smooth neck. Lurid pink. It needed a bit of sorting as it had a half-inch action and sharp fret ends and was almost unplayable, however a severe tweak of the truss-rod, a neck shim, a set of part used DR Hi-Beams and she's ready to rock. Sounds great through headphones but have yet to try it through the amp. I bought it for my Neice's next birthday but that's a while yet so ......

Dave, I've just given mine a thorough inspection and there are no black marks or imperfections anywhere, just lovely sparkly CAR. I can take some close-up pix if you want.

[quote name='bilbo230763' post='138300' date='Feb 11 2008, 05:02 PM']While we are talking cables, can someone remind me of the difference between instrument (bass to amp) cables and speaker (amp to cab) cables. I have been told this but can't remember why. And, in the answer, can you clarify why you shouldn't use an instrument cable as a speaker cable and vice versa. Yours in ignorance. Rob[/quote] I'm sure there's a sticky with this information somewhere but anyway hgere's my view. Instrument cable is required to connect the 100 or so millivolt output from the instrument to the amplifier. Because this signal is so small it is succeptible to electrical noise and interference and so in order to protect against this the cable is co-axial with the signal running down the centre with a grounded shield or screen around the outside. We are talking milliamps and millivolts so the cable strands can be quite small. Speaker cable is required to connect the output of a power amplifier to a speaker cabinet. In this case we are talking tens of volts and amps so the cable has to be a lot chunkier however because of the signal level it is no longer succeptible to interference and can be an unscreened 2-core cable capable of handling the power. For bass use 2.5 sq.mm. or higher. Use a speaker cable to connect your instrument to the amp and you will suffer from severe hum and noise. Use an instrument cable to connect your amp to your speaker and turn the wick up and you run the risk of blowing the cable and probably destroying the output stage of your amp at the same time.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='138049' date='Feb 11 2008, 11:13 AM']My New DD just turned up. Very impressed with the neck (my main worry). The action is a bit low as its buzzing a lot but it feels too low for me anyway so once i raise it up it will be great. The neck feels a bit shallower compared to my Jazz, could be flatter i guess but its very nice. Colour wise im happy. I was hoping it wouldn't be too bright and its not. I will have to change the pick guard though. whites ok but i might go for a black one as i like the red/black look of my Jazz. Nice and 70's looking. The only downer is the bass is quite dirty. quite a few grease looking marks on it and some smudges on the bridge. Nothing that wont come off though.. Cant see any fingerprints but the plastic film on the pick guard has been taken off around the bottom half by the controls. There are also a couple of small black imperfections in the paint work. Again, not a big deal, just making me think that i should get it swapped but im always like this. Its definitely been out of the box as it has Thomann tape on on top of the original. Maybe its a return or a shop model. I guess these are minor worries and although i can get it sent back im probably going to keep it if it sounds good and plays well. I wont get to play it through an amp until Sat but ill plug it in to the PC or Pandora tonight and have a play. If it sounds good and plays well it might be worth me keeping it as the next one could be worse.[/quote] Sounds to me like you got an ex-demo or a customer return. I would challenge them over this and get it replaced with a brand new one before doing anything to it.

Well put Steve. Frankfurt is all about business. The exhibitors are there to launch new products to their dealers and distributors and to take orders. Trying to sell something to them is quite a challenge. All the business is really done on the trade days. When I was exhibiting there we used to send most staff home and only keep a skeleton crew there for the public days because they are a nightmare. If you have a proposition to put then do your homework before you go, and be there for a trade day because the salesman for some distributor from Southern Germany may not be the guy you really need to talk to. Putting all that to one side it's a good place to check out the players, try and make some contacts and then follow them up after the show.

I believe that this would count as a formal raffle and as such there are legal implications. There is always a load of legal jargon on official raffle tickets. Doing it on the day with cloakroom tickets seems to be a way around this. Any legal experts on board?

[quote name='3V17C' post='136477' date='Feb 8 2008, 12:57 PM']wrong, wrong, wrong[/quote] In addition to what bass_ferret said Speakons provide a larger contact area, lower contact resistance and higher current capacity than jacks.

[quote name='BassJase' post='136962' date='Feb 9 2008, 02:27 AM']No manual for it though, and unfortunately the lead is fixed (grr...) but apart from that i'm well pleased with it.[/quote] [url="http://www.peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/80302264.pdf"]T-Max Manual is here[/url]

[quote name='BassJase' post='136842' date='Feb 8 2008, 08:40 PM']Howdy y'all, Just wondering if anyone can help me with a query i have.... I recently bought a Peavey T-Maxx 2x10 combo amp (it was sat from new in our local music shop for about 3/4 years, and they recently closed down and i got it for £180.... ) and i'll be gigging it this weekend. The thing is that i'm playing it at a venue i've never been to before, so i want to take along another extension cab in case a bit more welly is needed. The extension speaker socket on the back says "mimimum 2 ohms." Now, does that mean i'd need a 2ohm cab, or a 4ohm or a 8ohm can to make it reach its full welly? The whole ohm thing confuses me at the best of times...! Many thanks for any help, -Jase.[/quote] That was a good deal. I've just paid almost that for a T-Max pre-amp. I would suggest reading the manual and if you don't have then go to Peavey's web site and download it or google it. The T-max amp can handle a total load of 2-ohms minimum so you need to find out what the impedance is of the the speakers in the combo and work from there. Tha manual or the product data sheet should hopefully give you that. BTW my good friend funnyfreddy had a T-Max head which he ran at 2-ohms and it blew up, so don't be too quick to follow him down to the Peavey repair centre.

[quote name='Bernmeister' post='136063' date='Feb 7 2008, 09:05 PM']Blimey!! that costs more than what you can get the mic stand for. Have you tried the distributor, i believe its beyer dynamic.[/quote] Nah there are plenty of places that sell it at a sensible price. I was just staggered by the mark-up at Chapples.

Whilst researching where to buy me a ubiquitous K&M mic stand drinks holder, usually anything between £5 and £10, Mrs OBBM found that they are quite pricey [url="http://www.chappellofbondstreet.co.uk/product.php?product_id=KM-160-2B-DRINK"]here[/url] in Bond Street. Now I know London is expensive but...... I'd be amazed if they actually sell any.

I've had good and bad experinecs with Andertons. I've been a customer since Charlie Anderton started his original music shop in about 1964 in Stoke Fields. It was the building where the original ACM was located. Always polite and helpful, but that was 44 years ago. Nowadays when I walk into the store I get the impression that the young whippersnappers they employ can't understand why a 60+ year old is looking at basses, pedals, etc. I tend to be ignored, which is not a bad thing when you're looking but annoying when you want to buy something. I think they could improve the customer service aspects of their business. On a plus note I recently wanted an EH Black Finger. I did a net search and found they had one in stock but it was more than two other places on-line dealers. I emailed and asked them to price match which they did without quibbling and put it to one side for me until I ddrove over and picked it up later in the day.

[quote name='joegarcia' post='135622' date='Feb 7 2008, 11:56 AM']Thanks but is it possible for the speakers to be 8ohm if they're wired up presently for 8ohms total? Also, my amp does do 2ohms but I wanted to be able to use it with another 4ohm cab.[/quote] Only if he hasn't got all the speakers wired or he's found a way to circumvent the laws of physics, in which case I doubt that he'd be a musician. This table shows all the possible permutations. Speakers__ohms_____cab posibilities (ohms) 2__________4_________2 or 8 4__________4_________1 or 4 or 16 6__________4_________0.67 or 6 or 24 8__________4_________0.5 or 2 or 32 2__________8_________4 or 16 4__________8_________2 or 8 or 32 6__________8_________1.33 or 5.33 or 12 or 48 8__________8_________1 or 4 or 64 2_________16_________8 or 32 4_________16_________4 or 16 or 64 6_________16________2.67 or 10.67 or 24 or 96 8_________16_________2 or 8 or 128 2_________32________16 or 64 4_________32_________8 or 32 or 128 6_________32________5.33 or 21.33 or 48 or 192 8_________32_________4 or 16 or 64 or 256 I wish there was an easier way of doing a table

[quote name='Hamster' post='135481' date='Feb 7 2008, 08:35 AM']He hasn't - but he wants one As above, should be able to do it with re-wiring. Hamster[/quote] Not if the cab is currently 8-ohms. There is no way to convert any 8-ohm cabinet into 4-ohms without changing the speakers.

[quote name='joegarcia' post='135450' date='Feb 7 2008, 02:03 AM']Hi, Is it possilble to re-wire an 8ohm 8x10 cabinet to 4ohms by using series/parallel wiring? I don't know what the individual speakers are yet but does this sound plausible? Ta's[/quote] No. If the cab is currently 8-ohms then: If the speakers are all 4-ohm then they will get 8-ohms by having two strings of 4 speakers = 16-ohms in parallel, which brings it back down to 8-ohms. The speakers can't be 8-ohms each because you can't make 8-ohms total. If the speakers are 16-ohms then you would have two groups of 4 speakers in parallel = 4-ohms connected in series which adds up to 8-ohms. The speakers can't be 32-ohms because you can't make 8-ohms total.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='135157' date='Feb 6 2008, 05:03 PM']Well, bit the bullet and placed the order for the DD. Should be here early next week. Hopefully i wont have all the problems i had getting my HW-One. That was a nightmare.[/quote] Congrats. I'll be interested for your comments on the stock strings. Mine came with TI Flats which were put on by the previous owner. I dislike flats and have put DR Sunbeams on it.