Mr. Foxen

[quote name='nottswarwick' timestamp='1358693300' post='1943423'] James Lomenzo from Ashdown is a great pedal. I just got one, and it has a lot of versatility to it. [/quote] +1 on this, I think these should be the default bass overdrive choice.

Classical anything, especially piano, would give me all the music reading and theory I would be a much better musician with but can't really be bothered to learn properly. All the notes just laid out there, be good for writing.

Put the 4x10 on a box. Get a barefaced Compact/Super 12, and put it on the box it comes in.

Shoot me a pm if you are playing in Bristol, because I don't look at gigs section often enough.

[quote name='paulpirie8' timestamp='1359538929' post='1956180'] +1. Reminds me of "Whiplash" slightly. [/quote] Does sound a lot like a guy that's major influence was early metallica jsut running with that. Which is probably exactly what it is. Not like Metallica are doing it any more, so guess there is an opening.

There are two neck pickup spacings, you can see them if you side by side different ones. Also I know whilst looking the same, the dimensions of a real one vs my CMI basically made it unusable.

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1359503138' post='1955995'] Soldering onto copper tape which is stuck to wood isn't always straight forward. The wood sucks the heat up see. O [/quote] Not foujnd that an issue at all, copper sucks up head much faster and that's the thing that needs to get hot.

They mislabelled that guy's back.

Soldering fresh shiny copper tape is so nice and easy its actually fun.

If you can get it refurbed, then mention this as an option when you sell, for additional cost, emans the buyer has the choice, and you only need to put in the effort if necessary.

I think 40 was the recommended.

Generally dual amping will give you a bassist and guitarist at once sort of sound, which is more suited to single guitar bands. A Boss LS2 pedal is the easy solution to mixing up wet and dry signals, you can balance them with the control knobs. Thing is, in the place where the signals over lap, you can get a whole mess of phase fun that notches your signal weirdly, best keeping stuff fairly separated, a really thin trebly tone and a ill defined muddy tone tend to combine better than two sounding ok independently ones.

Max mids, min bass and treble is roughly flat. The impedance setting just affects where the limiter kicks in so unless you are pushing the full 500w it makes not much odds, and 500w is goign to melt most cabs. Watts are pretty meaningless to volume from the amp, if you were hearing breakup from something other than the preamp section, which is unlikely with the stock valves in the Bass Terror, then it would be the speakers in the cab.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1359287513' post='1952422'] a tube power section doesn't do much of anything special that a class D doesn't. With a tube power section the impendence has to match exactly to get the most out of it, with a class D it's not so important. The 'juice' of a valve power amp only makes a difference once yo start pushing as the power valves start to naturally compress the signal. IMO a class D power amp is a lot better in many ways that even today's valve power sections. [/quote] That isn't true at all. The very stuff you mention is part of what class D doesn't do, and pushing the power section doesn't necessarily mean massive volume, they are fairly bandwidth limited which means real lows can produce harmonics, which gives the impression of massive low end without much power or straining speakers. Also valve power sections couple with valve preamps much better, down to the same impedance issues as the output stage. Plus all the compression and bandwidth limiting you get from a valve amp is more natural than the limiting built into the Orange bass Terror (which the 4/8 ohm switch changes).

Korean made Epiphones, before they went to China and got a bit worse.

Cab is a more significant limiting factor than head, but if you have a PA, with subs, you don't need much at all, just something for a monitor. Much more weight to be saved in the cab than the head too, heavy good sounding heads can be picked up cheaply (Peavey), but small cab light cab is usually more expensive prospect. Are you keeping the rig, or is it just for the shows? A Barefaced Midget and whatever head should probably sort you, and Barefaced cabs move on very easily, and you don't have to lose much on the s/h price due to wait time from new.

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/134417-what-are-really-unfashionable-at-the-moment/ Unfashionable at the moment means future collectible.

[quote name='winterfire666' timestamp='1359221258' post='1951850'] that makes perfect sense but then why are there loads of p/j basses about and p/p's semm to be fairly rare? [/quote] See how many people aren't satisfied with their gear, an sell it and buy more stuff, then sell it. But you don't see many s/h dual P basses.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1359213830' post='1951685'] so why can't manufacturers with the wealth of experience and historical examples available to them get it right now? [/quote] Bet its hand shaped/sanded, so labour costs. I blame the unions.

Dual P, because putting a lower output pickup in a lower output position never made any sense.

Tried asking TC Electronic first?

[quote name='TommyK' timestamp='1359105940' post='1949841'] I have a BF Super 15 and I no longer have Cab GAS. 100% cured (no really, it is!) Sounds perfect, very loud, looks good and I can carry it, what can be improved?? [/quote] I thought that when I got mine. But then I got two.

Means people need to rush to buy it before it goes up even more.