mcnach

I don't think so. I play a lot but I have no problem with touch screens... I think some people just have thicker skins and adding a callus may just take them over the edge of sensitivity?

Mine came packaged as Status...

As opposed to golf, that Scottish sport, which is truly fascinating

No, I *love* Fat Beams. It's Hi Beams he's comparing them to. Fat beams is my regular string. In mid January I restrung one of my Precisions with what I thought were Fat Beams and I was not happy with the result... I started wondering why it sounded so different from what I remembered, even accounting for the extra brightness of new strings, it was not right... then I saw the package: I had bought Hi Beams by mistake It's an expensive trip, trying strings... but when you find some cool ones it can make it all worth it

Ah but it's only the evil dragons that are used for this, not fluffy friendly ones.

Hmmm, clearly I wasn't paying much attention to the guy talking as he said they're essentially Hi Beams but coated. I don't like Hi Beams, so I think I'm no longer intrigued

Yeah I've seen a few videos... none sound terrible... or fantastic... and it doesn't tell me much without comparing to other type of string, really. That's what I'm hoping to hear some first hand experiences

They are stainless steel coated strings and they intrigue me, but I can't figure out how they differ from other strings I may be more familiar with like DR Fat beams or even Black Beauties coated ones, or nickel D'Addario EXL ones, or various other stainless steel ones (D'Addario, Fender, Warwick...) Has anybody here used them and can please write a bit about what they thought?

Yes, I saw that... but if you go to the online shop, go to bass strings, medium scale (which actually are just fine for Fender 4-inline 34" scale bases), single ball end... you'll find the black nylons. I placed an order and it arrived...

From the audio above, it seems like a lot of what I thought was the bass was the bass drum making it sound a lot more... relentless. But's it's much easier to play than it looked at first.

I haven't tried it, but I have seen an isolated bass track somewhere... maybe that helps? Here it is. You need to pan to the LEFT to get just the bass.

The advantage of playing originals is that I always play something that is suitable for my level Although at times I try to push things. When learning songs by others, unless you're talking highly technical stuff, I find I can manage just about anything... if I give it enough time. If I have time, I sit down, break it into component parts and make sure I get it down. If I don't have time, I may start with a simplified version, and cheat in parts... and then worry later about getting closer to the original. Struggling a bit is not a bad thing: you only really progress when you push your comfort boundaries a little.

Indeed. My life has been a lot easier since I realised I was trying to make every bass I got my hands on sound a bit like my Stingray...

I don't know, he sounds like someone I would pay attention to. He may be somewhat harsh at times, but I can't say I disagree much.

!!!! what are you doing still playing with that guy?

I'm afraid that it's probably just a matter of sticking with it... and practice. When you practice, do you allow for at least a chunk of it to be "fun" or do you approach it as a chore? The more fun it is, the more likely you are to keep doing it and getting better. I'd seriously consider finding other people to play with, especially if they ARE better than you. It's amazing how much more quickly you progress once you are with a few other individuals and feel the pressure... and it is fun too.

Yeah, doesn't sound like a great character... but the thing about having his travel and hotel expenses covered does not sound unreasonable to me.

A guitar tech showed me that years ago. Always press the strings at the nut and saddles (as well as generally being sensible when winding strings leaving no slack and not winding more turns than needed... 2-3 is plenty). Tuning stability from t=0 ever since. It used to be a mystery to me how these guitarists could be handed freshly strung guitars onstage gig after gig and not suffer from tuning issues... that's why.

I bought a set last week. I just checked and they're still there in the list of bass strings...

My favourite is the Fusion F1 (or the Urban, as the F1 seems to be discontinued and you may still find it in places but it's hard to find). The F1 cost me £115 4 years ago. The Urban is a bit more. I have found nothing as comfortable, with the ability to carry so many accessories, that offers nearly as much protection. I looked at the Ritter range among others, but they're nowhere near the Fusion stuff, in my opinion. I use the Fusion F1 all the time, continuously for 4 years, and it's still in great condition (other than dirt)

I buy mine to order... easy to specify what ends to use (I could make them but I'm lazy for cables)

I do both... I always loop because you never know when someone is going to step on the cable... it gives you a little slack that can prevent damage.

Whether using top or side mounted sockets... 90-degree cable plugs seem a must to me. Normal cable just make me nervous that something/someone will eventually hit it bending it and possibly damaging the socket. Clearly not too much of an issue as most people do just fine without... but that's my take on it.

Not really. It pretty much dictates how it will feel when plucking. It's part of the picture with regards to how a bass feels, but to call it meaningless when in isolation sounds ridiculous to me.

Of course. But a lot of people realise that nut width contributes significantly to their "is this comfortable to play?" verdict. I use anything from my ridiculously narrow Jazz clone at 35mm to my Classic 50s Precision at 45mm... But I'm always going to prefer the 43mm-ish ones, regardless of depth, it turns out.