Alec

[quote name='JTUK' post='1335505' date='Aug 10 2011, 07:17 PM']IME..there is only one... the Markbass 102..add a 15 or 210 and you have a decent rig. On its own, it is the best lightweight around..IMO.[/quote] At those kind of prices (around £950 for the MarkBass 102), I'd be *waay* more tempted to go for the GenzBenz Shuttle STL3.0-10T (£700 or £500 used from a current basschat ad) or the STL6.0-12T (£1,020). If you're after lightweight, the Markbass combo is 20kg, whereas the two GenzBenz combos are 8kg and 14.5kg respectively - that's quite some difference! I don't have a combo, but *love* my STL-10T cab with my TC RH450 for practice & small gigs (I use a NEOX 212T for bigger stuff).

[quote name='Faithless' post='1317943' date='Jul 27 2011, 09:10 AM']Eh, TC still is the first option, because seller refused to ship Promethean cab.. I'll go to the shop today to try RS112, and try persuade myself I can 'sarcrifice' hard portability and heavy weight for 12" speaker and TC value.. [/quote] Can't make up my mind about the RS112. Regardless of how it sounds, and I've not heard it, it's just an "odd" form factor. In fact, its dimensions are little different from most compact 12" cabs, the odd bit is that it goes for depth over width. This might give you problems in small spaces, as it may project out from the back wall too far - especially as its rear ported, and so needs some additional space at the back to breathe. As for weight, you're not going to get much better than 14kg for a decent 12" cab!

[quote name='dan670844' post='1315666' date='Jul 25 2011, 01:10 PM']I would be quite happy to pay £4-5 pounds for a quality one but you can't can't 'cos MK have gone out of business because of this cheap crap as people are just thinking about the price. Its false economy in the end and and these cheap switches still use nearly as much plastic in its production, but you get through far more of them, the whole world is like this now.[/quote] Er, don't think MK have gone bust at all! [url="http://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/mk-range/cat830656"]MK stuff at ScrewFix[/url] Do agree about quality vs cheap, buy once, suffer the pain of spending once, and then sit back & enjoy the right product. And, for MK stuff, not as expensive as you'd think: £1.09 for a single light switch, £3.91 for a dual 13A socket. Compared with all the decorative, but poor quality stuff you can get, really not that expensive. And *so* much easier to install, and will last forever. Back on topic, I and some mates have some basic skills, so can replace kit reasonably. A good example was an active subwoofer at my local venue that had died. Took just 10 mins to identify a faulty resistor, replacement cost 60p, and a quick resolder job. Compare that with the cost of return to an authorised agent - who might well have replace the whole amp unit, for around £200 & shipping... Obviously, as said before, needs the local skills. One of the big problems with the "just replace the module" approach is the relatively short support life for these products, after which the spare modules are no longer available - at which point you're stuffed. At least when you're repairing at the component level, that tends not to happen.

[quote name='chris_b' post='1312259' date='Jul 22 2011, 01:10 AM']Some Markbass, Genz and TC are D class and I haven't heard of any issues with those amps. I had more trouble during my time with valve amps than I’ve had with SS and class D amps.[/quote] The problem with the modern class D amps is their very complexity and density of components. This means that in most cases, when failures occur, all that can be done is to switch out and replace a whole board/module. Fine in principle, albeit potentially costly to the consumer, but you're stuffed a few years down the line when spares cease to be available. Don't get me wrong, I'm a complete convert to the new, lightweight bass kit. But I *know*, that a fault in my old Trace combo would generally be a piece of cake to fix, as it's all discrete components, tidily laid out. Never did have a fault. But in kit like that, if you are capable of diagnosis & replacement, parts are typically in pennies. Compare this with £10s, if not £100s, for a replacement module in a modern amp.

[quote name='mart' post='1312077' date='Jul 21 2011, 09:26 PM']I think those TC cabs should be ok - ask the shop if they're 8ohm cabs. (The TC website has tech specs, but doesn't seem to mention the impedance or maybe I'm just not seeing it). As long as they're 8ohm, then you can use one of them, or one in parallel with your 10" GB cab.[/quote] As with the others, the TC 2x12 & 2x10 cabs are both 8 ohm, so can be used in parallel with your existing 10" cab. That said, I suspect you'd end up using either one or the other, rather than both. Doubt the 10" would add much to the TC dual cabinet, other than being a top end driver nearer to your ear thanks to the height. [quote name='mart' post='1312077' date='Jul 21 2011, 09:26 PM']There's lightweight, and there's lightweight. Those TC cabs are light compared to many, but the Shuttle cabs are featherweight - you won't find many cabs that light.[/quote] Agreed, the STL-10T is stupidly light. When I take it out & about, it's that in one hand, my bass in the other, and the TC RH450 in a laptop bag over my shoulder. Counter to all previous experience, the cab is the lightest of the three, wiht the bass being the heaviest! Who'd have thought that, years ago...! I debated long & hard which cab to get, after my NEOX 212T. In the end, decided it made sense to go for the smallest/lightest, rather than having two cabs which were too close together in size/weight. And I've generally been very happy with the combination - I really *love* the STL-10T's weight, with it's pretty neat sound. That said, it simply can't compete with the NEOX 212T for depth & volume, but they're ergonomically chalk & cheese. The only other option might have been a pair of 12" cabs which I could have used together or separattely - but they's still be heavier than my neat 10" solution, and the NEOX 212T is hardly a tough schlep, with its light weight & rear wheels.

[quote name='mart' post='1311761' date='Jul 21 2011, 05:01 PM']What do you mean by "handle"? It looks to me as if you could run the 10" cab that comes with your combo in parallel with another, larger cab (e.g. a 15", or a 2x10"). I certainly often run my Shuttle 3 with a 12" and a 15" (neither GB cabs, but both 8ohm). Am I missing something?[/quote] Presume you mean that the Shuttle 3 puts out less power than some bigger cabs can handle? Not the end of the earth, as it'll still put out quite a bit! Or is it that it wouldn't be able to handle a 4 ohm cab (like many 2x10 or 2x12 cabs) in addition to the combo's 10" speaker? If that's the case, then yes, but you could always plug the head directly into the bigger cab, and not use the 10" - in which case you might as well remove the head from the combo and take just the head & the bigger cab with you. Just because you've got the existing 10" combo cab doesn't mean you've got to use it! And, if you've got PA support, are you *sure* that you need more than the existing combo? While I don't have the shuttle combo (as the Shuttle heads weren't for me) I do like the Genz cabs - I've got a couple of TC RH450 heads and a NEOX 212T cab for proper gigger and a STL-10T cab for practise & small stuff where I want to save space/weight. I have gigged with just the STL-10T cab, both by itself in small venues & with PA support in bigger venues. You've got all sorts of options. You could get the second STL-10T, which would give you another diddly cab & an incremental power gain. You could step up & get a STL-12T, which should give you quite a bit more poke & would give you three cab options (i.e, you could go out with just 1 x 10" , or with 1 x 12" for slightly bigger gigs, or with both for bigger still). Or you could get a bigger 2x10" or 2x12" to use by itself with your head (trust me, with one of those you won't need any more from your existing 1x10" cab - my NEOX 212T is capable of *huge* levels!) I have to say that the smaller cab is only *just* enough for the bigger venues & will depend on what levels you're playing at, but don't discount it for the portability benefits!

[quote name='martindupras' post='1263915' date='Jun 10 2011, 12:43 PM']... And the duty invoice came in the post today. Damn.[/quote] Told you so... [quote name='martindupras' post='1263915' date='Jun 10 2011, 12:43 PM']Having said that, it's much less than I thought.[/quote] Same here. But for me, the kickers were the fact that the tax was also charged on the delivery cost, plus the service charge that DHL levy - grrr!

[quote name='martindupras' post='1263504' date='Jun 10 2011, 12:32 AM']I have not yet received a duty/import invoice. I have great doubts that one will come by now.[/quote] Sadly, I'd have to say not to be too confident - think mine arrived 3 weeks later, just as I was getting really confident that I'd "escaped". I'd give it until the end of June (seriously!) before you feel you've got out of jail free. [quote name='martindupras' post='1263504' date='Jun 10 2011, 12:32 AM']Incidentally, I found that an old padded laptop case works brilliantly to store the head and the footswitch.[/quote] Me too, and these are ten a penny at work. Given that people were finding that the TC bag was not holding out well, I was delighted with this - free and robust! [quote name='martindupras' post='1263504' date='Jun 10 2011, 12:32 AM']Incidentally, I found that an old The mp3 input is only audible in the headphones. It makes perfect sense, but today I wished I could get it out of the cabs, it would have been handy. It's not a big deal though.[/quote] Completely agree! While you wouldn't want to do this with regular gigging, it would surely open up opportunities in a busking role and would occasionally just sort out a problem. That said, I've never even used the mp3 input on mine (but might have if it was routed to the speakers) [quote name='martindupras' post='1263504' date='Jun 10 2011, 12:32 AM']Incidentally, I found that an old The I don't like the compressor. Once again, I'm a fusspot, and very few compressors are to my satisfaction. For reference, I'm happy with my Demeter Compulator. Once again, not a big deal, I can just turn it off, but it would have been nice to have a usable compressor built in. The tuner is very good. It's very fast, and it seems to sample the sound continuously like the better tuners, so points for that.[/quote] Wow - I love the compressor. Wouldn't carry around a separate one, as for big gigs I'd just rely on the compression in the PA rack. The separate compressor control is the only RH750 that I long for, though... The tuner is arguably the best bit of genius in this little amp. Never again am I fishing around for a tuner in my bag, or discovering it's been left on and the battery's gone flat. Debated a rack tuner for years, but now don't need to bother! Keep plugging away with the EQ, though, there's the sound you need in there, just begging to come out to play!

[quote name='Mog' post='1249145' date='May 29 2011, 12:39 PM']Do you know any Chippies? The materials needed to build a flightcase should only set you back around £40-50 if you ask for offcuts in your local hardware. Just get the dimensions you need and have someone build it for you. The aluminium guards and handle are easy enough to do yourself. Going down this route means you can build a case with rack features, ie. access to the speaker and power outputs through a hinged rear panel and a removable front panel.[/quote] Have you ever actually tried to do this??? If you have, you'll know that the aluminium hardward doesn't come cheap, and that using offcuts will give you a less than pro looking flightcase. You'll also more likely end up with one that you have to fit the lids on ever so carefully to make them actually line up. Buy a professionally made one and, once you've cried about the price, it'll just work and go on working without a second thought from you! In my view; the case for cases all depends... If you've got a van, somewhere to store the empty cases, and a busy schedule, then flightcases are the way to go. However, if it's just your own motor, and it's more of a modest gigging schedule, then nothing, or softcases are the way to go. I use soft covers for my active PA cabs, which are perfect, as I can fit a load of them quite safely & comfortably on the back seat of my car, alloing for the mixer in the front seat and my bass gear & cables & stuff in the boot. I did get a flightcase for 2 of my 10" monitor cabs (included on the ebay deal). It's a top notch flight case, but more than doubles the weight, and takes up the entire boot just for the two cabs, where I'd normally get 6 on the back seat with room to spare!

Having prevaricated for a while, I finally plumped for a second TC RH450 along with a Genz Benz STL-10T cab. Way too much money, but teeny tiny, sounds fab, and can easily be slung around to rehearsals and small gigs, where the big brother version isn't required. Spend well, spend once, never regret...

[quote name='Bankai' post='1259217' date='Jun 7 2011, 12:04 AM']Top-end studios using multi-thousand pound microphones will still be using the same standard cabling as any decent venue (Usually Neutrix/VanDamme)[/quote] And, as we've said so many times before, the main benefits of decent cable are resilience & flexibility. The main benefits of decent connectors are reliability, strength, and ease of termination. The Neutrik/VDC combination hits this target head on. Other quality cables/connectors can also fine, but by following certain brands, you know it's going to be OK.

[quote name='Thurbs' post='1255458' date='Jun 3 2011, 01:03 PM']I believe a speaker is a speaker and ideally should represent the input as best it can as the output. That way you can control the colouration of any "tone" by changing the signal at the guitar/pedal/pre-amp stage.[/quote] Ideally, that would be true, but every speaker cab has its own voicing and character. And, in many cases, you probably wouldn't actually like "flat" [quote name='Thurbs' post='1255458' date='Jun 3 2011, 01:03 PM']So, if there was a speaker which had a flat response through out the frequency range which was also man enough to double as a bass rig then to me that is a more valuable proposition as I can combine budgets and get a higher quality rig. I looked at PA tops but none seem to go low enough. I looked at PA subs but they weigh more than the moon.[/quote] PA Subs don't *have* to be that heavy, but most are. You *really* wouldn't want to play bass through most subs alone, though, as their cut-off frequency will typically be way too low. It's really educational to listen to the different components of a full-range PA, to see what contributes what. The venue I engineer in has a dB Technologies Fifty Line Plus system. 2x18”, 1+15”, 1+10”+1.5” per side. Powered by 5kW. Run music through just the 18" cabs and you hear little, but feel plenty - most unpleasant. Add in the 15" bass cabs and you get a slightly fatter output, but still can't recognise what you're hearing. All of that comes with the 1" cabs. With bass, you wouldn't want to play through any one of these by itself!

[quote name='alexclaber' post='1254018' date='Jun 2 2011, 01:26 PM']It won't hit 129dB at the normal measuring distance but it'll certainly play louder than an ART 710a (which looks like a nice speaker despite that overoptimistic spec!) [/quote] Have you heard those ART 710As....? The level & quality they emit is nothing short of astonishing. Even up against the 15" equivalent, they hold their own pretty well, even in the bottom end - not massive extension, but incredibly punchy. And lovely controlled dispersion, with a well designed, and rather large horn. Though the real stars of the series are the 12" + 2" ART 722As - absolutely glorious. Like said before, the Mackie actives are ubiquitous and are better than many acts use, but they're by no means top end. Having auditioned many, the ART 700 series is, in my view, about as good as it gets with plastic cabs. You can do better, but the weight & cost goes up an awful lot!

[quote name='martindupras' post='1253663' date='Jun 2 2011, 09:26 AM']I went with ProAudioStar (from Brooklyn, NYC) on eBay, partly inspired by Alec's positive report (thanks Alec!). The RH450 was $569 + $99 shipping + $17 insurance.[/quote] Yup, their price & delivery is just astonishing! And, sadly, an invoice from FedEx *will* come along and sour the deal, but not by enough to make you regret it. [quote name='BassBunny' post='1253731' date='Jun 2 2011, 10:15 AM']Really cannot see the point of having an RH450, (or 750 ), without the floor pedal.[/quote] I have two RH450s, but no pedal. While it'd be somewhat neat not to have to turn round to check my tuning, that wouldn't outweigh the hassle of additional tut in the bag for me. So, although it's a cool pedal, it's not for me!

However good the bass gear, it's unlikely to make a very good PA. If occasionally put music through a bass amp and, although making it louder, it's rarely very pretty. More significant are the completely different dispersion patterns that you'll get with good PA kit, helping reduce feedback, and improve audience coverage. I use RCF ART 700 series active speakers for PA. My monitors are ART 710As which also double as quite a capable mini FOH system if required - 10" + 1" horn, 750W, can deliver 129 dB - and all for only 11kg a unit. Using the right kit for the job will almost always give you a way better result!

All I own from Genz are a couple of speakers with which I am very happy. The ergonomics / feature set of the Genz amps never did it for me, but many love them. My only reservation is what seems to be a relatively large number of posts praising Genz's customer service in dealing with problems. While it's great that they deal with problems so well, it does sound like there are quite a few amps that do have problems - although it's hard to tell, as you don't get a feel for the number of 100% working items. If you have warranty service, then this shouldn't be a major worry to you, but might be as you don't?

[quote name='molan' post='1248987' date='May 29 2011, 10:00 AM']I've used a TC RH head purchased in the US and it was absolutely fine over here, no problems with power whatsoever.[/quote] Ditto, I have a UK sourced RH450 and a US sourced RH450 and there was never any question of it not working. TC globally advertise the autosensing power supply as a product feature. The biggest potential savings are if you go to the US and so can avoid international shipping (legal) and import tax/duties (not legal). The boxed item is big, but if I were wanting to bring one back, I'd discard the packaging and simply bring back the amp (don't even bother with the US mains lead!). That easily fits in a laptop bag with room to spare, or in your case - easy... And, while the real discounters, like Proaudiostar who sold me my RH450, aren't yet selling the RH750, when they do, you could make a whole stack of savings.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1249595' date='May 29 2011, 07:16 PM']They are an absolute bargain for the new price.[/quote] Absolutely! I bought my second RH450 from Proaudiostar in New York - a really easy and quick service. Forget exactly what it came to in the end, but even with the unpleasant tax/duty add-on, it was still a bargain compared with the cheapest UK prices. As for price drops & poor second hand value, it's no different from other technology markets where an upgrade will always dent resale value of previous version stock. Has it screwed existing owners? Of course not! I'm happy with both my RH450s, end of story. Like many, I find the RH750 a temptation (for me it's the dedicated compressor knob), but each has to decide if it's worth the upgrade cost - and for me it isn't (today!) And the overall line-up from TC settles into Classic - RH450 - RH750 - Blacksmith. As long as there's enough of a pricing differential between them all, then each definitely has their place. Though I could see the RH450 possibly being dropped at some point.

[quote name='largo' post='1202902' date='Apr 17 2011, 07:03 PM']Being honest, I found the 4x10 about my limit for a one man lift, taking into account the size and weight of the cab, not sure how the Genz owners find there cabs for one man lifts?[/quote] I was well past the point where I'd happily handle my old Trace 4x10 combo by myself. While I use a trolley for it, it was more or less beyond me to lift it into the boot if I was by myself. The NEOX 212-T, however, is a different matter. While I'll still use my trolley to move any kit around, the inbuilt wheels are great for shooting it around on stage. And, when it comes to lifting into the boot, I'm 100% happy to do it by myself. They're chalk & cheese, weightwise. And then there's the sound. From the first time I heard a NEOX 212-T in action, I was pretty confident it was the cab to replace my 20 year old faithful (lead) companion. And that was *before* I felt its weight!

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1198230' date='Apr 13 2011, 01:51 PM']A - Use the PA with the DI boxes I have (BDDI and Tone Hammer) B - Buy a small light cab to use with my small amps (maybe even a DB112) C - Buy a cool little combo (1x10 or 1x12) like a Genz Combo, Promethean Combo, or GK MB combo.[/quote] Well, although fun, a new combo would probably be overkill. The easiest would be to DI with an exisitng DI/head, as long as you were happy enough with the sound. Failing that, I'd go for a good 1x10" cab. I'm very happy with my Genz Benz STL-10T driven by my TC RH450 for small stuff & practice. And it's all as light as a feather - head in a gigbag over the shoulder, bass in one hand, cab in the other (and the cab is the lightest of the three!) And a DB112 is hardly that light, at just over 20kg... I picked up a GS112 (slightly lighter) as a possible half way between my STL-10T and my NEOX-212T. Passed it on quite quickly, as it was barely any lighter than the 2x12, and was no-where near as capable - it was definitely a case of GAS getting the better of me!

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1192988' date='Apr 8 2011, 02:52 PM']Fret not! Although it's now a minijack.[/quote] Oops! And I thought I'd taken a *proper* look too! Minijack is a bit pants, but is what a lot of people use, I guess, and makes it easier to squeeze in. Either way, don't care as I'd never use it. So, that's it then, the RH750 is an absolute peach!

Just noticed that one thing that has disappeared from the RH450 to the RH750 is the headphone out. Doesn't bother me, as I think I only tried it when I got my first RH450, never since, and am unlikely to. But am aware that others do use this feature. Ostensibly, this has made space for the extra knob on the front, but surprised they'd remove a feature...

[quote name='Legion' post='1190364' date='Apr 6 2011, 11:14 AM']And if you do go out that way you might as well visit Darren at the Bass Merchant as well - he has a Genz Neox212 in the store last time I was there.[/quote] Another +1 for the Genz Neox212T - with my RH450 it does all I'll ever need. Picked up an Aguilar GS112 a few months ago, that I just couldn't resist, but it came nowhere near the Neox212T, and has now been moved on again...

To be fair to the Thomann adapter, it is using the Neutrik NTX series connectors, which are Neutrik's top of the range, metal housing, touring grade connectors which come at a premium. While very sexy, it's probably overkill, as you're unlikely to break a regular NL series Speakon connector in day to day bass amp world. As to pricing - I'd never buy anything from Maplin unless I was desperate - v expensive. CPC are much better, though a trade account with VDC Trading is the business - I can buy the parts for an equivalent cable for half OBBM's cost - but of course a trade account isn't open to all... Back to the problem at hand, though: My preferred solution would be, if possible, to adapt either/both speakers to give a second Speakon socket. A tidy & future proof solution. Next best would be to have a Y lead of the right dimensions to meet my connectivity needs. Might have to compromise on the cable diameter to fit into the Speakon, but then 6mm cable was always overkill for these short runs!

Extra power: I *really* don't need that. Tweeter-tone: Don't need it, but would be a nice to have. Dedicated compressor control: That's the one bit of interface that has disappointed me on the RH450. I like to have a mix of compressed & uncompressed patches, and it's hard to spot where the compressor is set in the heat of battle - not too mention less than easy to tweak. In my view, most of the comparative desirability of these high end amps comes down to functionality. For me, the built in compressor & tuner were *huge* selling points with the RH450, as they help me keep my pack simple and light, without reducing functionality. And the lights round the pots, as well as looking very cool & lovely on stage, do make it 100% clear how you're set. (would also love it if the master had indicator lights as well, just to complete the set, BTW).