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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1351688628' post='1854147'] I would be very wary about buying one unseen/unplayed. I tried one of the original German made ones when they first appeared at one of the musical instrument shows. It had the sharpest fingerboard edges of any bass I have ever played! Considering this was a show model that I would expect to have been as close to perfect as Warwick could manage, I have little faith in a general retail one being any better..... [/quote] I'm pretty sure if you bought a new one now it would have nice rolled edges. I bought a Thumb new in 2008 and it had the ultra-sharp edges; even now I almost expect to cut myself on it. But from about 2010 they switched to a thinner neck and lovely rolled edges - I got a Corvette from 2010 and the neck and fingerboard on it just feel great. It would still be nice to not have to buy blind though, especially on a bass where a lot of us have suspicions about the level of neck-dive.

Yep, both look the same.

Before setting up the Rockbass line, made in China, Warwick experimented with making cheap basses in Germany, by using cheaper woods, cheaper hardware and slab bodies. This is one of them. Yes, it was made in Germany, and it has an ovangkol neck (instead of the maple that most RBs have), but apart from that it's basically a Rockbass, of the sort that Thomann were flogging for around £200 not long ago. And the extra problem that these Streamer standards have, like the RB streamers, is the pickups are weedy, but a non-standard shape, so difficult to replace. I am a big Warwick fan, but I'd buy the Spector rather than this.

Most Warwick basses are active, so have a stereo jack socket to disconnect the battery when the lead is unplugged. I would guess that, although your bass doesn't need a stereo jack, that's what they've fitted so as to standardize parts. But that means you've got to choose the right 2 out of the 3 tags. On the other hand, since the Warwick sockets are awful and don't last very long, you're probably better off going to Maplins, buying a long-barrel MONO socket, and then the wiring will be obvious.

Wasn't there a stall selling these at the London Bass Guitar Show year before last?

[quote name='Graham' timestamp='1350840812' post='1844114'] I think un-amplified your not going to be very audible up against guitars, mandolins, fiddles etc. ... [/quote] +1 on this; an acoustic bass unamplified will easily be drowned out by a strummed guitar, let alone anything else. [quote name='Graham' timestamp='1350840812' post='1844114'] ...And if you are going to be amplified, you might as well just use a P bass with flats which should fit in nicely. [/quote] Sorry, Graham, but I can't let that stand. I've heard this said a thousand times, and it never fails to amaze me that on a forum that obsesses about every detail of our kit, ostensibly on the grounds of nuances in sound, people will rush to dismiss an acoustic bass because it needs to be amplified, and say that you may as well play a P. So let's just spell it out: an acoustic bass, amplified, sounds a lot more like an acoustic bass unamplified (just louder) than a solid body does. And some of us like that sound quite a lot, which is why we (sometimes) play acoustic basses. And I've said nothing about the looks, because, of course, we all choose our kit on the basis of sound, not on looks, don't we. (/sarcasm). Sorry, I just love my acoustic bass, and the interested comments it ALWAYS gets.

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1350593782' post='1841135']No, not necessarily. Different resonant frequencies occur in different places along the neck. A dead spot is where the frequency of the fretted note coincides with the antinode of the resonant frequency of the neck at that exact point (or very near). Fretting a note of the same frequency somewhere else on the neck (on a different string) may not result in a dead spot as the resonant frequency of the neck at that point may be different. This article explains it much better than I can - [url="http://www.acoustics.org/press/137th/fleischer.html"]http://www.acoustics.../fleischer.html[/url] [/quote] Interesting article - thanks for finding that. So yes, it really isn't as simple as I had thought.

If he's paid, and you know the bass is fine, then I wouldn't worry about it - he can't take any effective action against you given the evidence you have.

From the polytune manual: "Current draw on daisy-chained pedals may not exceed 2A". So you're unlikely to have a problem unless you use it to power a kettle

For an even cheaper option you could pop into Cranes, choose one of the Joyo copies of the Tech 21 character pedals, and just plug that into the regular input on your bass amp. But the Line 6 or Zoom would be more fun ...

If it's the resonant frequency, then it'd be the same wherever you played that same note, right? Edit: Er, no, actually, it is more complicated than this: see posts below!

[quote name='McBass' timestamp='1350570732' post='1840673'] I was fortunate to have seen him live around 1988, he had Alan Thompson on bass....mavellous! [/quote] Ditto, although I think it was about 1990 for me. And that gig is the main reason I play fretless. Edit: In fact, since it was at Ritzy's in Aberdeen, maybe you were there?

A long shot, but have you tried changing strings? Last time I got a "dead spot" on one of my fretlesses, it turned out to be a faulty string that had a slight bulge at that spot.

The B7K runs on 9v, so you can daisy chain it off the polytune. The only issue is whether your mains power supply can supply enough current for both devices. And Darkglass don't seem to say on their website what the current draw is on the B7K, so you might have to wait until you've got the pedal and hope that it says on it. Just in case you don't realise (as many people seem to misunderstand this point), the polytune isn't actually powering anything, it's just connecting other things to its power supply. That is why the only thing that matters is whether your supply can cope with both the polytune and the Darkglass.

Yep, that's a 90s German Warwick Corvette, not a Thumb. But on the plus side, it's the same body wood as the Thumb (bubinga, instead of the more common ash for Corvettes), and the same neck wood as Thumbs from the same period. Of course, it's a bolt-on, but so are some Thumbs. In some sense the only real differences are the pups and electronics (which could easily be swapped for the same kit as is in a Thumb), and the body shape, which is much more curvaceous on a Thumb. And the body shape actually balances far better on a Corvette than on a Thumb.

Doh - just looked at the one in garythebass's post, and it's exactly what you want for a fraction of the cost. But the MEC one will have a centre click, which you may prefer.

[quote name='Ruck' timestamp='1349971631' post='1832963'] is this it? [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/emg_a25kx2_tandem_poti.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...tandem_poti.htm[/url] This is the pot I emailed them about. Says its a Dual Volume pot. Will it do the job for the Bass/Treble? [/quote] I think "tandem" means that it only has one knob, and when you turn it, it affects both bass and treble. So I really don't think that's what you want. The closest I can find is a stacked 50k Lin/Lin pot, designed precisely to be a dual bass/treble control. only problem is its 40 euros + postage: http://shop.warwick.de/?&c=35352310036&lang=en&smk=1&modul=shop&site=article_details&article_id=D0406994001322750270A3637&article_category=D0120522001321517425A44028&nm=D0405358001321517424A43801|MEC|D0407846001321517424A43802|D0120522001321517425A44028

[quote name='Kongo' timestamp='1349652382' post='1828822'] ... If anyone can think of someone local to myself who could be of help, please let me know. :-) [/quote] Isn't basschat member (and mod) Icastle round your way? I'd get in touch with him and see if he can recommend someone - or even help you himself, as he's very knowledgeable and very helpful.

Ouch. If you look on the Warwick website you'll find a wiring diagram for your bass, which should tell you the part number of that stacked knob with PCB. The Warwick shop will then probably have it for sale, but it is likely to cost an arm and a leg. Thomann may have it for slightly cheaper. But it's a specialist part, so you don't have much option, except by replacing the whole preamp.

Go on the Warwick forum asking to buy a 2002 and I think you'd have a fair chance of finding a seller. They are beautiful things, but not all that rare.

[quote name='Big_Stu' timestamp='1348696378' post='1817195'] Well I was going to write my phd in quantum physics, but I couldn't get my pencil sharpener to work. [/quote] Ah now, you see, your mistake was to try to use the pencil sharpener. Before you did that, it was both working and not working. But then you went and stuck a pencil in and collapsed the wave function .... Er, sorry, wrong topic. Right, er, stereotypes, eh? Isn't there something about lukewarm water?

I've played fretless almost exclusively for nearly twenty years, because the sort of playing that needs a fretted bass is either stuff I can't do or stuff I don't want to do. The only time I pick up a fretted bass these days is if I'm playing something with a set bass line that is all over the place, then I play fretted so I don't have to worry about my intonation and can concentrate fully on finding the next note. But then I do get frustrated at how limiting the frets are, it feels like I have much less control over the note than on a fretless.

[quote name='Mick Kahn't' timestamp='1348611560' post='1816102'] Thanks guys - I guess the desired result is to get the action as LOW as possible and not get any fret buzz - so getting the relief JUST RIGHT ... [/quote] That's a matter of taste; some like a higher action for various reasons. Most starters like a low action, as it makes things easier, but I think there are still plenty of long-in-the-tooth players who like it low as well. Btw, I loooove your user name; wish I'd thought of it!