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Hi there I'm searching for a good arpeggio book, does anyone have any recommendations ? I fank U

Andy, great minds think alike..or fools seldom differ..😆 What do you think of the following... I've been staring owlishly at the bass for some time and I have come up with a variant of your plan which I think might be even less visible. Cut the neck at the pickup rout. It would need to follow the rout, rather than be a straight cut but it would be invisible nce the pickup is back on. I could then shim the neck in front of the pickup which would change the action height to something a bit more usable (I hope). This would probably need a couple of extra screws as you suggest...

I *have* tried the zs-10s on a gig and can report that they are great. I replaced the rubber tips with foam ones and they performed admirably. Can’t recommend them highly enough.

It's not an easy choice. If I add skills/ experience and tools to the equation then there are significant pro's and con's for both approaches. 1. The problem with lowering the bridge is that it really has got to be lowered a LOT. And you have to be confident with a router or chisels to go as deep as it will need to go. 2. The problem with shimming is that, depending where the shim is, the resulting wedge of neck that will now stand proud is over quite a long length. And ideally you have to be confident in planing/sanding to get that right. Not for the faint-hearted. There is, also, a third option - and it would probably, and reasonably, scare the word-not-allowed out of you. But, now I've had a good look at the unconventional design and construction of the bass, I think it would be the one I would personally do. So, for what it's worth: 3. I would cut the neck through at the end of the fretboard. I would take the back plate off and then add two extra screwholes in the neck pocket about 2 cm from where that cut point is, clamp the neck back in its original place and drill into the neck for two extra fixing screws. These holes would be countersunk so these two new neck screws would sit flush with the body wood. I would then add a shim underneath that 2cm neck overhang and add the two extra neck screws (with the neck now able to move more like a conventional bolt on neck and the shim needed would be quite thin). The two new screws, flush with the body wood would then be hidden under the refitted back plate. - bridge unaffected - pickup unaffected - nothing to see at the back - two teeny cut marks at the fret end - great action Answers on a post card....

I bought a pair of the KZ ZS10 in-ears a couple of years ago from Ali-Express that were mentioned in the in-Ears thread as a good starter to try when I thought I had a in-ears gig coming up. That fell through, but I use them a lot for noodling in the house, connected to my Sonicake Pocket Master (with a mini-jack to 1/4" adaptor). I did buy a second set as I didn't think they would last, but they have, so the 2nd pair are still in the box. I don't normally like the rubber bung type earbuds but they do seem to work well for that. I have not tried them on a sweaty gig though.

I guess it depends on your view on the morals of it, but a lot of it seems to be happening from what I have seen - I saw an old Squier P5 recently where they wanted more for the body than I paid for the two I have second hand. I suppose it is no worse than someone having an old banger on their drive that they have been offered £200 scrap for deciding to pull it apart and sell the spares to others trying to keep theirs on the road. It means a lot more hassle and having to go to the post office a lot, but you can make more money if you can be bothered...

This dismantling of intact instruments for parts by dealers has been commonplace in the US for a long time, and I'd be sorry if it became the norm here too Having said that, I know that anything vintage is viewed through rose-coloured glasses these days, but I never played / owned anything made by Hondo that wasn't completely cr@p. Crazy pricing

Ok. I must admit i've never ask myself these questions. Thanks for sharing links: very interesting

I've had a couple of Ric cases that have suffered from this, unfortunately, no matter what I tried, they still reeked after treatment. They also suffered from the usual Ric ABS case breakages, so I'm assuming that they were the cause of the mustyness getting in to the case. The easiest option was to buy a new case.

I was looking for a diffferent sort of Hondo when I came accross this on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267387545803?_skw=hondo+ii+bass+guitar&itmmeta=01K9D2ZE42Y0W47QVFJ4V6XSPD&hash=item3e418a28cb:g:KKEAAeSweKxotb8Y&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d32JFlZ9hR7zmL%2F4CyZdNyRH52y%2FiuPIWTFFqJUZtKCFIl2or5Qy5wp%2FcNvcl04axr1Pg5KeLURUDKf1U9hV0JOVcfKowWtX4upMeJi8KtRHKnTnxHWTowLVPNJGP64koTD%2FhvNNaekzeSFB5QoYoHgyegnmXlQcbNLsWbEsmzCSi5qHKs5yITflrV35wQerdR1QF7hlfRDWTHeBQ3RZHoJkT4OUGqjg6%2FxvgqC6w7Ud5Suo6NFTRiFLuhvOvwNCqHXgwqbqikvX0rpAkfMcCw1bjQa%2BLM6q2otzSyAuC6kg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zi_aLLZg Its sold by something called 'Bristol Guitars' and if you look at their other items they seem to have just taken a Hondo Rick apart and be selling it piecemeal. Now I understand that these basses are unusual, and may have some collectability attached as its what Peter Hook used in the early years of Joy Divison, but if you add up what they are asking for all of the parts (right down to the strap buttons- a steal at £15.99 each) then it adds up to a faintly breathtaking £1220 odd. And you have to put it together yourself. You have to admire the chutzpah.....

Shake n vac to put the freshness back, remember that 🤓

Please don’t message me if you are seeking a Pedulla case. I’ll sort this somehow.

Something a little different for me, Laura Lee‘s bass playing , i like this one

We use this method on carpets and it’s proven to be very successful. I shall try it with this case too. Be a Shane to have to consign it to the scrap heap but I can imagine anyone else would want it like this.

Oh it is - the issue is the placement, which works very well for performance. For recording, double bass needs the right mic position which is not close mic'ing it which leads to boominess, whoosh and lack of definition. Anyway, you know all these things! I remember a very good engineer once using only a simple AKG 451 on my bass during a session, to my surprise. The sound was excellent and it sat beautifully in the mix. It convinced me that recording double bass is mostly technique and experience, rather than a specific piece of gear.