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Here is my music place, with my desk, sorry for the mess... 🤪😂

Despite not being able to do any deals with AB for the last few years ,he does know how to advertise his basses with all the pictures and the demos

Anagram is super easy to get into and can be edited really quickly over the HX but I’ve no experience of the QC. Anagram is really handy and ‘on the go’ friendly.

I know that’s popular but not for me. Don’t think it would work on this very bright blue anyway.

I asked on my local bass group if anyone could photoshop black hardware onto it and some joker did this for me. 😂😂😂

What about gold anodised ? nice btw

So I sold my Musicman USA Sterling and went on the hunt for another bass. My nearest shop is now RichTone in Sheffield (great guys there) and they had loads of 2nd hand basses (£1300 Shuker anyone?) which I had a good go with. I was interested in a Sonic Squire P and they got one out of a box for me. How is this only £170? Compared to my Fender P (player model) it’s very good quality (better in some respects.) and sounds amazing. The colour is wonderful - I love surf type colours. I was interested as it has a Jazz neck on it - I assume so new players have an easier time with their first bass - and it feels great, nice and thin in all directions and is a lovely Matt finish. I don’t like roasted necks and this one is lovely and light coloured and matches the blue really well. Tuners and bridge are just as good as my fender, fit and finish is about the same tbh. Might need the odd tickle here and there but it is very playable out of the box no fret buzz and set up well (for me anyway). The controls feel really nice and it has a good range of tone. Only negative is that the scratch plate is poor quality. Single ply and very plasticky and not well finished compared to my Fender but that’s a cheap change and not really essential to how it plays and sounds of course. Plans are to change the hardware to black so I’ve ordered a Hipshot black bridge and string tree, just deciding which tuners and knobs to order. Not sure whether to go for a 3 ply black or silver metal pick guard or maybe a carbon fibre look one like a Dingwall. Will get some more pics later if anyone is interested. I will update as I add more bits to it.

Referring to 'top' and 'bottom' strings in terms of relative elevation in conventional playing position, instead of musical pitch.

Apologies, but what's ducking? I'm not entirely sure what a sidechain is either. Trying to learn 🙂

It sounds nice though. I do like the demos AB has on his site.

It’s certainly subjective but I had QC, stomp and anagram and went with anagram. Easier for me to dial in tones, everything is set up for bass which does make things easier and I’m getting a better sound out of it for me. I also think at the rate they are updating it (MIDI next) we won’t actually be waiting years like we did with QC. QC does have the plug ins though but apart from parallax there may not be loads of bass specific stuff. Anagram is also encouraging plug in companies to put their stuff onto it due to the way it’s been made (not like QC who have to do it all themselves). Having said all that it’s great as it is and it’s what i use for every gig now with no amp.

Painted/coloured headstocks - yuk.

It's interesting how difficult it is to be really sure about the power calculations. The manufacturers don't help much either. Advertising the RCF speakers as being 2000W being a case in point. Firstly that is some sort of peak power and the RMS power will be half or a quarter of that depending upon which brand you are talking about and what level of distortion it is measured at. Secondly the speakers like most modern speakers are managed by DSP. The bass unit it the 932's will probably handle only 3-400W thermal and less than that at low frequencies due to excursion limits. The speakers are protected by the DSP computer so they never go beyond their design spec so 300W peak is more reasonable other than something that lasts a few milliseconds. The limit on the compression/horn driver is going to be 50W at most. There's also an expectation that the speaker is for music not test signals and music has quiet and lout bits and it is probably designed for something like a duty cycle of around 15-20% with the design assumption that that is worse case and the real usage will be well below that. I'll give some examples: my RCF 310's 400W RMS 800W peak are marked on the back as 230V 200W maximum power. My 745's have a 3amp fuse and a maxumum draw of 700W. Those are maximum ratings under worst case. My TE Elf, 180W into 4ohms is rated as 20W average power. That's a 15% duty cycle into 8 ohms and 12% into 4ohms Another way of looking at this is to consider sound levels. The average sound level at a drummers ears is just over 100db. If you are operating with everything balanced to the drums then your PA would need to be around that sort of level too, maybe 6db higher if you are all going through the PA. From memory those speakers give 98db/W so 9W would be needed for them to produce 106db at 1m. That's loud enough to cause instant, permanent hearing damage if you are only 1m from the speaker. Even 90db can cause permanent damage after 1/2 and hours exposure (RNID) It's unlikely that your speakers are using more that 10's of watts in normal use. What this all means is that your 2000W PA is only going to consume 100W per speaker and your backline probably something similar even with a worse case 20% duty cycle. That's well under 4 amps. I doubt many of you use more than 400W of led lighting and this too has a duty cycle, because it does colours, not white light and because it flashes, so unless you run continuous lighting or old fashoined incandescent bulbs you'll probably be running the lights on 2amps current. Your single 13A fuse is never going to blow and there is no way you will disturb a 30A ring main. You probably won't blow a 5A fuse but I don't think I'd try that. I haven't blown a mains fuse in 15 years since I moved to plugging in to a single socket for everything.