xgsjx Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Cheers for the super fast reply. Would it be ok to connect the super brights onto the R390 that's tapped onto the on/off LED? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 yep that should be fine, if you have them in series you can prob do away with any resistor, if you have them in parallel then each one needs its own resistor, they will be brighter but will drain your battery faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xgsjx Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Ah, cheers Al. I'm new to electronics of this nature, though I used to install lighting systems & car media/security systems. If I put the 2 superbrights in series, would I get away with no resistor? My initial concern was that on Maplin's website, the specs say they're 2.5v (reverse max 5v, whatever that means). The pedal's on a 9v PSU, so battery life isn't an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 if they are 2.5V, then you need to lose 4v from the 9V battery, (9-(2 x 2.5)) The LED's will be fine at 20 to 30mA current, so my ready reckoner says 180 Ohm resistor is needed. If you have 3 in series then you only need to drop 1.5V, which a 60 ohm resistor will do. Don't risk blowing your LEDs by skimping on the resistor unless you are sure they can take it. http://www.quickar.com/bestledcalc.php?session= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 ...oh - and reverse max 5V means thats how much they can stand if the currents flowing the wrong way, how strong they are as a diode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xgsjx Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 The resistors I got are 2kΩ, any good? The chap in Maplin seemed to know less about electronics than my cats do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.young Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 I have a Roland AC 60 acoustic guitar amp, which can use up to 4 footswitches to turn various functions on and off. The manual shows it with one Boss FS-5L and three Boss FS-5U pedals, each one costing at least £25 quid, plus two PCS-31 cables at another £25 quid each so we are up to £150 quid just to turn a few effects on and off! I don't think that's a great deal, so it seems to me that it would be fairly straightforward to buy 3 momentary normally on SPST switches, one DPST switch, an LED and a resistor for the latched one, and stick the bits into a dead Behringer footswitch which is currently cluttering up the spares cupboard. A couple of lengths of dual core cable and a couple of stereo 6mm jacks and Robert is your relative. Surely it can't be this simple - what have I missed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 2k too big for glow plate bling. Won't damage the LED's but light may be a bit weak. You need 100 - 150 ohm. 2k is fine for on/off indicator (a bit big maybe, I'd use about 1 or 1.5k) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 [quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1330261616' post='1554738'] Surely it can't be this simple - what have I missed? [/quote] no it should be this simple as long as you're ok at soldering - all these footswitches just take mono jacks don't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xgsjx Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Cheers Al, very much appreciated. Hope I can return the favour some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 post us a pic of the progress xg, thats all we need! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xgsjx Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 I will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.young Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 [quote name='Al Heeley' timestamp='1330276722' post='1555025'] no it should be this simple as long as you're ok at soldering - all these footswitches just take mono jacks don't they? [/quote] The switches do, the input sockets on the amp are stereo jack. I've ordered the stuff from bitsbox, fingers crossed - thanks for the encouragement! Soldering is functional but I'm not called 'blobby nobby' for nothing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 This is a small clone chorus pedal build using the schematics from Tonepad dot com - a clone of the classic analog Electroharmonix Chorus with a couple of mods thrown in. 1) PCB etched and drilled after UV-exposure & development. I start by soldering the IC holders then work my way through the resistors. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6823528762/][/url] 2) All resistors in place plus mini trim pot for fine tuning the chorus sweep [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6823529182/][/url] 3) Next I move on to the capacitors, small ceramic caps first followed by the larger electrolytic ones [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6823529570/][/url] 4) Once the components are all soldered in place I fit the IC's and transistors then move to the board wiring. A couple of mods from the original circuit seen here - a) Orange lead on left takes current from leg 1 of the op amp chip, feeding to a rate indicator LED, so rather than just an off/on indicator LED, this pulses in time with the settings of the rate control to give a visual indication of chorus speed setting. blue/white striped wires on right taken from the pcb to replace the stock 150pF cap; this determines the overall delay depth. The wires will go off to a mini toggle switch allowing choice between 100pF and approx 350pF cap to choose a light or deep voicing for the chorus. The 3-legged LED top right is a bicolour yellow/red which will be soldered to the voice switch to indicate the setting. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6823530108/][/url] 5) Enclosure innards, drilled and fitted with 3PDT footswitch, jack plugs, rate and speed pots, LED indicators plus voicing switch. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6969653993/][/url] 6) Here's the outer - graphics printed onto self-adhesive clear inkjet film (eg: www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk) makes a good job with the polished aluminium box showing through. The rate indicator LEDs are a couple of red surface mount LED's set into the eye sockets of the skull graphics. Once positioned, the box is given 4 or 5 light coats of clear acrylic laquer (spray can) to seal the surface and protect the print. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6823531068/][/url] Next step is to wire the board into the enclosure after a quick test run to ensure the circuit is all functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pollinator95 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 [quote name='Al Heeley' timestamp='1331409654' post='1572620'] [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6823531068/"][/url] [/quote] Meh. Just kidding, looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Beautiful job there, well done that BC'er. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 final shot, stuffed into the box, wired up and ready to go [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6980100493/][/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.young Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Beautiful job Al, highly professional. Putting the LEDs in the eye sockets is a touch of real class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finbar Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 That underlit pedal is so cool. I've been wanting to do something like that for such a long time, but couldn't work out how to make it glow convincingly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Here's the finished unit with bicolour LED's lighting the base plate - red or yellow depending on the voice depth setting switch. Red LED's int he skull eye sockets pulse according to the rate set. Sounds pretty good too [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6852106550/][/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartelby Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 THAT.IS.AWESOME! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 [quote name='Al Heeley' timestamp='1332198695' post='1584850'] Here's the finished unit with bicolour LED's lighting the base plate - red or yellow depending on the voice depth setting switch. Red LED's int he skull eye sockets pulse according to the rate set. Sounds pretty good too [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6852106550/"][/url] [/quote] That is seriously cool - you should be well pleased! Are you taking orders yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Heh, thanks; I have 4 small clone chorus PCB's etched, so drop me a line if you're interested in giving one a good home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 cool pedal Al! I made that one, though I don't know how to make the boards so I bought one from tone pad, came all the way from san salvador! I've not been on this thread for years- but 50% chance I'm going to make something new- thinking if I don't buy an ACGpreamp for my warwick I may make my own state variable filter for a outboard box. Or maybe a transistor ladder filter.... anyone else done anything similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Little veroboard jobbie currently on the WIP pile [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/al_heeley/wm.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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