Bridge wire grounding - alternatives?

[three]

I have a bit of a problem and hope that some of the technically gifted on here may be able to help.  I'm currently( re-) refurbishing my old Gibson Ripper - a long story.  It was recently re-finished very beautifully by Bow Finishing.  During the process, a Supertone bridge was fitted.  The new scratchplate with a new Ripper bespoke circuit arrived from Armstrong last week (pickups tested and updated etc.) and I'm now re-assembling.  However, as I tried to re-connect the grounding wire from the bridge (original and pretty fragile) to the pot, the wire snapped at the edge of the hole as it enters the cavity.  As one might imagine, the language was dreadful.  As the finish is new (poly), I'm pretty concerned about trying to remove the bridge to insert a new earthing wire.  The language yesterday when the wire snapped would be as nothing to what might ensue if a piece of finish came away with the bridge.  So, a question: is there an alternative means of ensuring good string grounding without a wire from the bridge to the pot?  I'm hoping that there's an ingenious way of achieving the same bridge-wire-pot outcome without risk.  If not, I suspect that the re-wiring job is one best left to the professionals (my cack-handed amateurism is potentially dangerous).  Thanks in advance   

[neepheid]

Well, there's the old Fender trick of a ribbon of copper foil going from under the bridge to (in the Ripper's case) the underside of the pickguard?

 

 

Yes, it's visible, but it's electrically sound, reversible, and easily achieved...

Edited Monday at 12:00 by neepheid

[neepheid]

To be honest, the gap between a Supertone bridge and the edge of the pickguard, it would be hardly noticeable...

 

Edited Monday at 20:32 by neepheid

[gary mac]

That would work, although for a sound connection he would still need to remove or at least loosen the bridge.

[neepheid]

3 minutes ago, gary mac said:

That would work, although for a sound connection he would still need to remove or at least loosen the bridge.

 

I did say "under the bridge" - so what you're saying was implied and I didn't really feel the need to explain how that is achieved.  The OP spoke of reassembling the bass, so I presume that they're able to loosen some strings then take off a bridge...

[three]

16 minutes ago, gary mac said:

That would work, although for a sound connection he would still need to remove or at least loosen the bridge.

Thanks both and what a lovely Ripper!  This might offer a solution - it is a very small gap - though as noted, I'd still need to lift the bridge slightly to ensure good contact.  I'll drop Bow Finishing a note too to get a view on the hardness of the finish and likelihood of removing a chunk of it.

Edited Monday at 12:40 by three

[neepheid]

Furthermore, I totally get the desire to avoid replacing the bridge wire, because it's a PITA.  On a Gibson three point bridge (even with an aftermarket replacement), to replace the bridge wire, you need to remove the bridge mounting bush out of the bass to run a new wire then reinsert the mounting bush, which will probably make it looser (as it's purely friction based), so yeah it's a pisser.

[three]

26 minutes ago, neepheid said:

Furthermore, I totally get the desire to avoid replacing the bridge wire, because it's a PITA.  On a Gibson three point bridge (even with an aftermarket replacement), to replace the bridge wire, you need to remove the bridge mounting bush out of the bass to run a new wire then reinsert the mounting bush, which will probably make it looser (as it's purely friction based), so yeah it's a pisser.

Eek!  Thanks very much - I didn't realise this - that changes the game further.  I'd no idea that the grounding wire was connected via the mounting bush.  The search for alternatives just became more urgent!  

[Hellzero]

Where exactly did the wire break?

 

Do you have a photo?

 

If it still visible, you can solder a new wire to it, it's an easy task.

[neepheid]

11 minutes ago, Hellzero said:

Where exactly did the wire break?

 

Do you have a photo?

 

If it still visible, you can solder a new wire to it, it's an easy task.

 

This is very true - total disaster not confirmed yet, I just assumed it.

Edited Monday at 13:21 by neepheid

[three]

1 hour ago, Hellzero said:

Where exactly did the wire break?

 

Do you have a photo?

 

If it still visible, you can solder a new wire to it, it's an easy task.

Thanks and this was my first thought.  Unfortunately, the wire is old (the bass is a '75) and the snap appears pretty clean.  There's a little bit of protrusion from the exit hole into the cavity but not really enough for me to be able to remove the shielding.  I'll take a couple of images and post this evening.  Maybe somebody with high level soldering skills and a lot of patience and the right knowledge/tools would be able to effect a solder-based repair.  My soldering skills aren't bad but getting to the original wire may be beyond me.  The lack of natural light in Manchester isn't really helping either.  I'll attempt to get some good shots later today and post in the hope that somebody can suggest a technique/approach that might aid in circumnavigating any more extreme options.  Thanks again to all, the advice is much appreciated!

Edited Monday at 14:22 by three

[three]

Apologies - images later tomorrow

[Hellzero]

When you say the shielding, you mean the plastic over the wire.

 

If that's it, heating it with anything will allow you to get rid of that protection with enough wire exposure to solder.

[Geek99]

6 hours ago, neepheid said:

Well, there's the old Fender trick of a ribbon of copper foil going from under the bridge to (in the Ripper's case) the underside of the pickguard?

 

 

Yes, it's visible, but it's electrically sound, reversible, and easily achieved...

And easily faked with copper shielding tape 

[tauzero]

7 hours ago, neepheid said:

To be honest, the gap between a Supertone bridge and the edge of the fingerboard, it would be hardly noticeable...

 

 

After a little puzzling, I realised that you meant scratchplate, not fingerboard.

[neepheid]

56 minutes ago, tauzero said:

 

After a little puzzling, I realised that you meant scratchplate, not fingerboard.

 

Edited, cheers.

[three]

3 hours ago, Hellzero said:

When you say the shielding, you mean the plastic over the wire.

 

If that's it, heating it with anything will allow you to get rid of that protection with enough wire exposure to solder.

Apologies, yes, I did mean the plastic coating

[three]

Resolved (I hope) with the help of kind BC members - thank you. There was just sufficient of the original wire available to remove the plastic shielding then solder an extension. All seems to be working fine, though if the fix fails, the Supertone has a fortuitous gap for insertion of a copper strip! Thanks again to all!

Edited 1 hour ago by three
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