I want to make a 2-unit wooden sleeve rack

[bass_dinger]

I want to make a 2-unit wooden sleeve rack, like this

https://ebay.us/m/o2Ms5z

 

I have the wood (veneered MDF), and can get it cut to size.

 

However, I don't know the internal dimensions of a 2u Rack; I need to buy the internal metal brackets; and I wondered if I need ventilation in the box.

 

Can anyone advise?

 

Robert 

Edited Thursday at 17:58 by bass_dinger
Wrong words

[Dad3353]

14 minutes ago, bass_dinger said:

... Can anyone advise?...

The internal dimensions are : width : 19", height : 2 units, so 3.5", depth : a bit deeper than the depth of the deepest unit you want to fit in there. Having the back open would probably be enough ventilation, and allow for cables to be plugged in. Maybe leave a little extra headroom, so as to more easily fit the units, and allow air through..? Hope this helps.

[WinterMute]

Depending on what you're planning to house in it, you may want vents to the top and bottom too, you may want to leave a 1/2 rack space between the units too, some people leave a full rack space with a vented blank panel for valve or class A kit between the units.

 

Have a look at the cases of the units you want to put in the rack, if they have vents to the top and bottom of the case and/or fans to the rear, you'll need some way for the air to get to the interior of the units.

 

I have a 2U rack for the bass amp/management for my studio monitors, I had to cut vents to the top to stop it overheating.

 

Edited Friday at 10:13 by WinterMute
additional info.

[bass_dinger]

2 hours ago, WinterMute said:

Depending on what you're planning to house in it, you may want vents to the top and bottom too,

 

EMU Classic Keys Module; later, a Behringer umc404hd (PC sound interface). 

 

If I go too high, then the unit won't be able to double as a plinth for a PC monitor screen.

 

So, I will perhaps leave a slight gap, for air circulation, but not a full 3-Unit vertical spacing.

[nekomatic]

I would proceed as follows:

1. obtain the brackets a.k.a. ‘rack strip’

2. bolt the units to the rack strip

3. measure the resulting assembly

4. design and build the sleeve to match your measurements. 
 

It doesn’t sound like those two units should need lots of ventilation, compared to a power amp, say, but the advice above about ventilation is good. 

Edited Monday at 09:33 by nekomatic
stuff about vents

[BigRedX]

I wouldn't make the case a snug fit. 

 

If you look at the equivalent ABS rack cases there is built-in air space all around the actual space for the rack units.

 

The last time I built a wooden rack case I used 2" PAR batons for the bracing. This was mainly because the case was 14U high, but it had the added advantage is giving an extra air space all around the equipment for the air to circulate. 

 

For your two units you probably don't need this much, but since it looks like a permanent installation rather than a carry case, I'd add as much extra width as you have room for and try and get at least a 5mm air gap top and bottom.

[NancyJohnson]

With the best will in the world MDF probably isn't going to be the best product to build from if you want something robust.  End of the day it's just wood dust and glue/resin; it won't hold screws well and glue penetration isn't great.

 

Honestly, treat yourself to a sheet of 1/2 birch plywood and joint/mitre the edges.  Any decent wood merchant should be able to mill/cut sheets to whatever size you need and a good sized sheet will probably only be £30.00.

 

 

[Rich]

I agree with Nancy. Plywood is a much better bet, stronger and considerably lighter than MDF.

[bass_dinger]

 

4 hours ago, NancyJohnson said:

MDF probably isn't going to be the best product to build from if you want something robust

But @NancyJohnson,  ... I wanted to become 'The Man Who Used The Handy Bit of MDF', which has been stored in my garage for 7 years for just such a purpose. 

 

I will see what plywood my dad has in his garage (38 years of storage, so, more than 5 times more legendary...).

 

More seriously, I plan for the outside to be the pretty veneered MDF, with the inside frame to be a hardwood (garage, 7 years...).

 

The Rack Strips mentioned by @nekomatic looks like a useful addition too - no need to worry about threads on the wood failing then.

Edited Monday at 14:24 by bass_dinger

[NancyJohnson]

1 hour ago, bass_dinger said:

 

But @NancyJohnson,  ... I wanted to become 'The Man Who Used The Handy Bit of MDF', which has been stored in my garage for 7 years for just such a purpose. 

 

I will see what plywood my dad has in his garage (38 years of storage, so, more than 5 times more legendary...).

 

More seriously, I plan for the outside to be the pretty veneered MDF, with the inside frame to be a hardwood (garage, 7 years...).

 

The Rack Strips mentioned by @nekomatic looks like a useful addition too - no need to worry about threads on the wood failing then.

 

Aah, it's in the garage.  MDF is also quite moisture prone too, when it's stored in a hot/cold (damp?) environment, it'll effectively delaminate (even though the product isn't laminated); it'll just start splitting along it's length!

[obbm]

8 hours ago, nekomatic said:

I would proceed as follows:

1. obtain the brackets a.k.a. ‘rack strip’

2. bolt the units to the rack strip

3. measure the resulting assembly

4. design and build the sleeve to match your measurements. 
 

It doesn’t sound like those two units should need lots of ventilation, compared to a power amp, say, but the advice above about ventilation is good. 

I second this approach.  Rack panels are 19-inches wide so the opening width is always 19-inches plus a bit.  Coversely the opening height is always multiple units of 1.75-inches and the panels/units should be less a tolerance to allow them to fit.  I used to have a data sheet giving the recommended dimensions but I can't seem to find it right now.  You should be able to find them through Google.

[Mottlefeeder]

Something to be aware of is that the original rack specification was for 19" by 1.75" modules, but as a result of standardisation in Europe it is now a close metric equivalent. Although the new standard allows compatibility with older gear, building your sleeve around an unknown panel may mean that not all panels will fit.

David

[nekomatic]

5 hours ago, bass_dinger said:

The Rack Strips mentioned by @nekomatic looks like a useful addition too - no need to worry about threads on the wood failing then.

OK, if the units are both fairly light and you don’t plan to hump the assembly around to gigs and stuff then screws into a batten are probably fine. I’d still take your measurements off the actual setup though.