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HazBeen

Building a modern 5 - COMPLETED

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Don't want to make work for you but....

Have you thought about Wenge pick up covers?

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The bridge is in...... my word I don’t think I have ever had such a complex bridge install. It literally took me 3 hours with the routing, aligning, drilling, more drilling and even more drilling. But it did end up fine thankfully.

 

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7 hours ago, spacecowboy said:

What happened to the Schaller? ☺️

Keeping it for the next one.

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3 hours ago, TheGreek said:

Don't want to make work for you but....

Have you thought about Wenge pick up covers?

I am not big on wooden pickup covers to be honest. Don’t do it for me.

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Good work.

It illustrates how individual bridges need careful laying out.  In particular, the taper from the nut to the bridge must be quite difficult to measure and cater for.  I'm bearing that in mind for when I use those myself.

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3 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Good work.

It illustrates how individual bridges need careful laying out.  In particular, the taper from the nut to the bridge must be quite difficult to measure and cater for.  I'm bearing that in mind for when I use those myself.

Thanks.
 

Whilst the Hipshot Triple Lock system is clearly a very stable solution, that accommodates string through body (not that I’d want that perse) it is a dog to install.

You need to align just right to get the taper nut to bridge right. But unlike other individual saddle bridges, with these because there is a bolt through the body, you need to drill perfectly straight as well.
 

Something my cheap donkey pillar drill almost cannot achieve....... hate it with a vengeance.

End result is pretty much perfect on the top, on the back/flip side I have to admit the alignment is pretty decent, but not perfect. I will snap a pic to illustrate next time I am in my workshop.

All in all I am happy, considering my overall building experience, tools and general “make it up as you go” approach to building. 

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I’m still amazed ...

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So the individual sadles follow the angle of the string to the nut, rather than the sadles being parallel on the body...

Only really seen em used on some Ibanez models, and usually the fan-frets...

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4 hours ago, HazBeen said:

End result is pretty much perfect on the top, on the back/flip side I have to admit the alignment is pretty decent, but not perfect. I will snap a pic to illustrate next time I am in my workshop.

@Andyjr1515 has just been writing about that somewhere.  He approaches from either side of the workpiece to get the through holes right for alignment of the ferrules.

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1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

@Andyjr1515 has just been writing about that somewhere.  He approaches from either side of the workpiece to get the through holes right for alignment of the ferrules.

I think he simply has more skill, and hopefully for him a better pillar drill too :) 

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Neck is in! Now I have the pocket depth right, I may sand the bit sticking out (about 1.5mm) flush with the body. But to be frank it doesn’t bother me, so may just leave as it for added strength.

Also fiddled with the bridge a little, to better follow the taper. Worked well.

Oh and stripped a screw......not quite sure how to get it out, but I will think of something.

 

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I’d leave it 

you can get stud extractors that work well or use a dremel to cut a flat head 

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32 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

 

I’d leave it 

 

Leaning that way too!

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6 hours ago, HazBeen said:

Neck is in! Now I have the pocket depth right, I may sand the bit sticking out (about 1.5mm) flush with the body. But to be frank it doesn’t bother me, so may just leave as it for added strength.

I'm fairly sure that the part that is proud of the body does not add strength, just mass.

I'm glad you tweaked your bridge.

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The great thing about this phase of a build is that you can see progress very clearly.

- Neck now flush with body

- Neck thread insert installed

- Ferrules for neck bolts installed

- Neck bolted on to test it

Weight, with cavity for battery, pickups and controls still to be done, a tad above 3800 grams.

I think since I am installing a few bits as well, weight will end up at 3850. Not bad.

 

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Great job.  Those ferrules look fine to me.  Don't forget that I am lining up only 4 in much the same space. My dimensional errors will be hidden to the eye - and that's something you can't do when they are pretty much touching each other.

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Great job.  Those ferrules look fine to me.  Don't forget that I am lining up only 4 in much the same space. My dimensional errors will be hidden to the eye - and that's something you can't do when they are pretty much touching each other.

Appreciate the comment.

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2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Great job.  Those ferrules look fine to me.  Don't forget that I am lining up only 4 in much the same space. My dimensional errors will be hidden to the eye - and that's something you can't do when they are pretty much touching each other.

I’ve tried to do it and never really got close to as good as yours 

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More decisions made, going with the 1 MM pickup, 5mm further towards bridge compared to the classic Stringray position.

Cavity for pickup all done, control cavity getting there but needs further work.

 

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9 hours ago, HazBeen said:

5mm further towards bridge compared to the classic Stringray position

That's going to be twangy.  You'll need extra tough callouses if you routinely play above the pup.

Interesting.

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14 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

That's going to be twangy.  You'll need extra tough callouses if you routinely play above the pup.

Interesting.

Not really mate. As it is still more forward than the single Bart humbucker I have in the other fretless I built or the bridge pickup on a jazz and no issues there.
 

I went with the 5 mm back to get a bit more crisp attack, but the placement will ensure enough warm roundness too.

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