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Soledad

Highway One Jazz refin

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Started when I picked up a 2010 Hi-1 Jazz through FB recently. I'd done a bit of research and was interested by the graphite neck in particular (more of why later), the BadAss II bridge, the dot markers because I prefer them to the blocks, and the supposedly thin nitro finish. The one I got was satin black so there's an immediate problem.

My '97 Precision is black and it needs to stay that way. So I messaged @rubis about the paint process on his year of birth P. He gave me some useful tips and referred me to Manchester Guitar Tech so I spoke to Steve there just to check what I was in for. I've ordered the stuff I need to do a Lake Placid Blue, with a tiny hint of aging (just 9 years worth, hardly anything but not 'straight out of the paint shop' look).
I've taken the bass apart with care. I even used new screwdrivers although I suspect the screws are actually Phillips head. Anyway, all that went fine. Noticed the final couple of winds on front pup were hanging a bit loose - worrying as they are like human hair thickness so considerable care required now and later.
I do like seeing all the stamps and other marks in the neck cavity and on the heel - I'll get pics done but the neck and head are both dated late-ish 2010. I know this is the first time the bass has been touched, it still had the clear plastic film on the scratchplate when I got it (and some rounds of a fair vintage !).

I plan to get down to the wood on the body (not hard at all as the paint is really thin, as advertised). Once I get to see the wood* I am considering an investment in new pups - maybe Fender vintage Custom Shop, ADVICE and opinions welcome please. I want pure JB sound but gooder ;)

Was fairly knocked out with this Hi-1 by the way. The neck is excellent and I'm sure the graphite makes a difference - that common resonance around Bflat - D on the G is gone. It plays and sounds great so probably a keeper.

Back soon with progress

 

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Interesting! I almost bought a highway one (maybe even this one) as they seem very reasonably priced for a US bass.

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2 hours ago, StevieE said:

maybe even this one

Possibly, was on FB for some time, Flavio selling it was away most of that time and really slow at responding to messages. Finally went to see it and bought. He'd hardly used it so dead straight not messed with. He was more interested in showing me his MIJ Marcus Miller Jazz... not my thing at all.
I too think the Highway Ones are a good shot - not so much info in the UK but over on TB there is quite a fan base. I suspect the pups are pretty basic and that is the one thing I may change. Don't think these basses are worth spending loads on as you very soon get into premium US used prices so I won't be going top-end Aguilar say.

Back soon with more action on the decorating front ;)

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Posted (edited)

Lake placid Blue is not an easy colour to go for if this is your first time refinishing. But good luck! Remember you need to dust metallics on, too wet a coat and the metallic particles will lye flat and not very reflective. Also don’t try and sand the colour coats during the process as this will also ruin the metallic effect.

Edited by Manton Customs
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+1

Dry coats are your friend Soledad

Try and get hold of some tack cloths for a gentle wipe over between coats, it will remove any little fibres that have a habit of sticking to your work 

best of luck, it will look awesome, it's a great colour 

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Thanks for the advice re the metallics. Steve at MGT made it sound fairly easy... !!

I get the idea of the dry coats, and recall Rubis saying about warm body, warm paint for good flow. Maybe that applies more to the laquer - if I get that far. If the blue fails, I mean if I fail it, there are a couple of fall-backs: Dakota red or another straight gloss.... there's always black :)


 

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Stripped the satin black celly off. Steve at Manchester GT told me there was a clear sealer under on the Hi1s - makes life a lot easier I think. I got down to almost clear with various abrasives, then used clean cellulose thinner to wash the last of it off, taking care not to disturb the base coat. It then got flattened (was flat anyway) and finish-keyed with Abranet 400 (actually an old well-used bit so way finer than 400 anyway).

I've put a very thin grey prime coat on - I used it as practice to dry-spray, taking the advice of the more experienced regarding the application of the metallic later. Couldn't resist a dust along one side with the lake p-lacid blue, just to see the colour tone and metallic effect. Problem is there is very little contrast between the grey primer and the dusting of LPB. I may cut it all back smooth and put a white primer down.

I fashioned a 'neck' to hold the body at various angles. Later I intend to do some soft-edge masking in the neck cavity to get the overspray as per - need to p[rotect the date stamp etc. The pup and control cavites were fully sprayed black so they will become LPB.

Happy so far, the LPB metallic dust coat seemed to work and the metallic is nice and even (I think). It may be that you really see how good your metallic is when you put the laquer on top. 

AND, being patient - plenty of time to harden between stages. I may be in with a shot, but must not tempt fate.

more later

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