rudey D Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 I've got a Trace Elliot GP12-SMX combo 15 as well as two additional 15" speaker cabs and a Trace 4-10" speaker cabinet. The knobs cackle on the GP 12 head but the previous owner gave 5 new pods with the amp. I have two questions : #1 Are all Trace Elliot cabinets 8 ohm? and #2. Is there something in the amp that shuts it off to keep it from over heating or blowing a fuse?? It recently shut off in the middle of a song. I turned it off checked the fuse and chords etc- next day turned it on and seems fine since. The only difference is I had the 4-10 cabinet hooked up to it when it shut off. I haven't plugged in a cabinet since because I thought I would ask someone first. Any thoughts / help would be greatly appreciated. Rudey D I am obviously a new member..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrixn1 Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 I believe the last number of Trace Elliot cab models indicates the impedance. So a "1048" and "1044" are both 4x10, but the first is 8 ohms and the second is 4 ohms. If your 4x10 is 4 ohms, and the internal speaker is 8 ohms, then the total load would be 2.7 ohms which might be too low for the amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 36 minutes ago, jrixn1 said: I believe the last number of Trace Elliot cab models indicates the impedance. So a "1048" and "1044" are both 4x10, but the first is 8 ohms and the second is 4 ohms. If your 4x10 is 4 ohms, and the internal speaker is 8 ohms, then the total load would be 2.7 ohms which might be too low for the amp. Had a quick look online and can't find any mention of a Trace 1044 cab. Or in fact any 4 ohm 4x10 Trace cabs. It appears that pretty much all Trace's classic bass cabs have been 8 ohms apart from the 2x15 and 8x10 monsters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberthot Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 The only 4 ohm ones I can think of off the top of my head have been the 1524 and 1084 but they did produce a lot of one-off and odd stuff over the years including a 1x18" 1x15" and 4x10" in the same cabinet. Ashdown brought out a couple of 4ohm 4x10" like the 414T and another that escapes me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teebs Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 I have a Trace 2103h cab - rated at 8Ω. I always thought that the numbering was 2 (number) 10 (inch speakers, and) 3 (inch) h(orn). I'm probably wrong though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad3353 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 You can measure the DC resistance with a common-or-garden ohmmeter, which will tell you, indirectly, the impedance. A typical 4 Ohm cab will measure something like 2.5 Ohm with a meter. An 8 Ohm cab would be around 5-6 Ohms. A 16 Ohm cab (yes, they do exist...) would measure around 10-12 Ohms. Hope this helps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teebs Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 The ohm Ω rating of your internal speaker & external cabs combined is probably incorrect for the output of the amp, causing the cut-out in sound, or 'clipping'. When an amplifier is pushed to create a signal with more power than its power supply can produce, it will amplify the signal only up to its maximum capacity, at which point the signal can be amplified no further. As the signal simply "cuts" or "clips" at the maximum capacity of the amplifier, the signal is said to be "clipping". The extra signal which is beyond the capability of the amplifier is simply cut off, resulting in a sine wave becoming a distorted square-wave-type waveform. (Wikipedia). The maual for your amp is here ⏬ Trace Elliot SMX.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad3353 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 37 minutes ago, Teebs said: The ohm Ω rating of your internal speaker & external cabs combined is probably incorrect for the output of the amp... I don't think that what the OP was describing was 'clipping'. It's more likely, if there's a speaker load mis-match with the amp, to be thermal protection cutting off the amp before 'magic smoke' is produced. Once cooled off, the protection releases the amp's output again, until the next overload. It would happen if a 4 Ohm cab was plugged into a combo that has an 8 ohm speaker, thus loading the amp with less than the 4 ohms it can handle. The solution is to only use 8 Ohm cabs with such a combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonard Smalls Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Teebs said: cut-out in sound, or 'clipping'. Clipping isn't a cut-out, it's distortion; as the Wikipedia section you quote says: The extra signal which is beyond the capability of the amplifier is simply cut off, resulting in a sine wave becoming a distorted square-wave-type waveform. In other words what you hear with clipping is your max level signal with the top cut off the wave-form, which, depending on the amp/speaker can either sound terrible, damage the speaker or, in the case of valves etc, can sound like overdrive... The square wave is effectively the sum of many harmonics of the original tone - all that extra high-frequency harmonic content is what causes the damage. Personally I prefer any overdrive to be produced by something that's designed to produce overdrive! Edited January 30, 2019 by Leonard Smalls 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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