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Jimothey

Ibanez GSR205 New Body Shape Finished FOR GOOD THIS TIME!!

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17 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Have you sealed your knots?  Or is that taken care of by the filling compound?  It used to be necessary for pine doors and such.

Sap discharge would be an awful thing to discover in years to come.

I’m veneering the front and back and there’s no knots on the sides so I don’t need to seal the knots and sap discharge won’t be an issue on this one but.....with my Streamer build that will be a different story as it’s a white painted body so the knots might shine through yellow 

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Where did you get the template shape from?

I ask this because simply drawing round a Warwick body won't work. The reason for this is the neck you have is 22 fret. Warwick necks are 24 fret. So if you simply reproduce a Warwick body shape and fit a shorter neck, the scale length will be shorter than 34", which is OK, but the 12th fret n the neck won't be in the right position for a shorter scale length because the first 12 frets will be 17" not half the length of the shorter scale length.  ... or maybe you've already covered this?

The other thing you need to consider is the weight of the 5 string neck. The body weight needs to be a suitable weight to counterbalance the 5 string neck.  Sorry if this is being boring and pedantic, but you're going to a lot of trouble to do it, so it needs to be right.

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3 minutes ago, Grangur said:

Where did you get the template shape from?

I ask this because simply drawing round a Warwick body won't work. The reason for this is the neck you have is 22 fret. Warwick necks are 24 fret. So if you simply reproduce a Warwick body shape and fit a shorter neck, the scale length will be shorter than 34", which is OK, but the 12th fret n the neck won't be in the right position for a shorter scale length because the first 12 frets will be 17" not half the length of the shorter scale length.  ... or maybe you've already covered this?

The other thing you need to consider is the weight of the 5 string neck. The body weight needs to be a suitable weight to counterbalance the 5 string neck.  Sorry if this is being boring and pedantic, but you're going to a lot of trouble to do it, so it needs to be right.

I did the template myself on Inkscape then imported it into publisher as I find I easier to get the size right as you just type in the size you want it to be and hey presto

As you can see from the template I have marked out the rough bridge placement and as I’m not using a two part bridge I’ve go a lot more room to adjust the bridge placement to make the scale length correct, well that’s my plan which I think in theory will work??

In regards to the possible neck dive Issue the original body is Basswood which is lighter than the pine body and it balances ok, so I’m hoping that it won’t be an issue.....

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I tried to mark out the neck pocket and pickup cavities but realised quickly that I’ve messed up big time and have cut the body too short at the neck pocket........

4945894B-010A-4B22-A965-30AB984FDBB5.thumb.jpeg.0d51413eac01d4655aec582bd26a9f52.jpeg

So now need to either extend the neck pocket.......

5E475C6F-1ED0-4807-8619-CB949D0A7AE6.thumb.jpeg.d599d1a1e21b0d33cc50d372cd791622.jpeg

Or remake the body completely......

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Great that the lesson was learned with pine, rather than a nice piece of swamp ash. Nice one.

Not meaning to be funny. Life is a learning journey. "Measure twice, cut once" as they say. 

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51 minutes ago, Grangur said:

Great that the lesson was learned with pine, rather than a nice piece of swamp ash. Nice one.

Not meaning to be funny. Life is a learning journey. "Measure twice, cut once" as they say. 

Yeah if it was a nice bit of timber I think the profanity filter would have overloaded!!

What makes it worse is I’m a carpenter so I normally do measure twice cut once!!>:(

Im not overly bothered if I need to recut the body as I didn’t pay for the timber anyway it was left over from a replacement door frame I made for a customer.....

Edited by Jimothey

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Also I’m thinking ‘waste not want not’ as IMO the body was too small for a bass body it will be a good size for an electric guitar so I’m going reuse the body with some old guitar parts I have laying about

0CFEBE6D-FF6D-4B4C-98C4-ED5A48E1DB14.thumb.jpeg.30a52b4336ecfe4da77d90aa843f9330.jpeg

And see how it turns out.....

Edited by Jimothey
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8 hours ago, Jimothey said:

Also I’m thinking ‘waste not want not’ as IMO the body was too small for a bass body it will be a good size for an electric guitar so I’m going reuse the body with some old guitar parts I have laying about

0CFEBE6D-FF6D-4B4C-98C4-ED5A48E1DB14.thumb.jpeg.30a52b4336ecfe4da77d90aa843f9330.jpeg

And see how it turns out.....

Great idea.

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I haven’t had chance to do a lot more on it but I thought I’d do a quick mock-up just to see where the bridge is going to sit after @Grangur mentioned about the neck differences 

6F688786-D079-438B-86AC-44D5D42574CC.thumb.jpeg.dc1018f29036e931885d9bfe4f6608a7.jpeg

I think it’s going to sit ok (That’s 17” to the top E saddle) it will go a bit closer to the neck once I’ve sorted the neck position out.......

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2 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

I haven’t had chance to do a lot more on it but I thought I’d do a quick mock-up just to see where the bridge is going to sit after @Grangur mentioned about the neck differences 

6F688786-D079-438B-86AC-44D5D42574CC.thumb.jpeg.dc1018f29036e931885d9bfe4f6608a7.jpeg

I think it’s going to sit ok (That’s 17” to the top E saddle) it will go a bit closer to the neck once I’ve sorted the neck position out.......

From a structural point of view that's absolutely fine - similar position to a Curbow:

9n8QKUal.jpg

One of the nice things on the Curbow is that this position makes the bass feel like a shortscale when it's a full 34".  It's a principle I've followed on a number of my own builds.

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Thanks I don’t think it looks very Fortress-esque at the moment (maybe when I’ve veneered it and rounded off the body it might) but I’m kinda liking the shape of it I prefer it to the other shape.

Hopefully I’ll get the best of both worlds a shortscale feel but without the loose floppy feeling strings..........

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4 hours ago, Jimothey said:

I haven’t had chance to do a lot more on it but I thought I’d do a quick mock-up just to see where the bridge is going to sit after @Grangur mentioned about the neck differences 

6F688786-D079-438B-86AC-44D5D42574CC.thumb.jpeg.dc1018f29036e931885d9bfe4f6608a7.jpeg

I think it’s going to sit ok (That’s 17” to the top E saddle) it will go a bit closer to the neck once I’ve sorted the neck position out.......

It's a bit difficult to tell from this picture but even with the bridge right at the back, can you still make a sufficiently big neck pocket? 

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8 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

It's a bit difficult to tell from this picture but even with the bridge right at the back, can you still make a sufficiently big neck pocket? 

The neck pocket will work out to be 125mm which will be 25mm longer than on the original body 

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20 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

The neck pocket will work out to be 125mm which will be 25mm longer than on the original body 

Plenty long enough then! 

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2 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

Plenty long enough then! 

I’ve extended the length of it because I wanted to try and shape the end of the underside of the pocket so it wasn’t just square, also I wanted to use 6 neck bolts instead of 4 to help with sustain taking into consideration the body material (I don’t know how much difference it will actually make?)

Edited by Jimothey

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I’m having a slight rethink as the veneer I ordered is on back order and they don’t know when they will be getting anymore

Ive found some sapele that I had in the back of my shed so I’m now thinking of recutting the body and laminating it like this??

603A2BFB-B1D3-4848-803F-026EF14F6351.thumb.jpeg.2cfbf3ddb70ca567215e62e51d2ef622.jpeg

Or does it look better like this??

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I can’t decide.......

 

 

 

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Both have their merits but I think the first sandwich laminate is good.  Possibly more stable if the woods expand at different rates too.

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I don't know where you are @Jimothey but I have some walnut veneer you'd be welcome to a sheet of.

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4 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Both have their merits but I think the first sandwich laminate is good.  Possibly more stable if the woods expand at different rates too.

That’s the one I prefer but I’m not a great lover of sapele in general so it would be using it for using sake if you catch my drift 

3 hours ago, Grangur said:

I don't know where you are @Jimothey but I have some walnut veneer you'd be welcome to a sheet of.

Thanks but I’m in North Wales now I used to be down nearer you in Colchester if I was closer I probably would have taken you up on the offer :D

I‘m now eyeing up this veneer which I think might look quite nice?

62F187C3-4571-441F-9FE7-9720B4169DAA.thumb.jpeg.2a0f7dffe7c3b0c7318065da2f4290ae.jpeg

10 points for anyone that guesses what veneer it is???:biggrin:

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38 minutes ago, benroch said:

Spalted something :biggrin:

i would guess spalted ash?

 

No sorry its not Spalted Ash

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2 minutes ago, Grangur said:

No sorry it’s not spalted maple either, 

I didn’t even know there was such a thing as what this veneer is advertised as??? O.o

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Spalted guitard? Very hard to make an impression on and will take a knock or two well and not even notice it 

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9 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

Spalted guitard? Very hard to make an impression on and will take a knock or two well and not even notice it 

I, like everyone so far thought it was some kinda of spalted wood but it’s actually Royal (White) Ebony, to be fair it normally a lot more figured but the highly figured stuff is ridiculously expensive 

7741AF8E-0E69-4099-A560-88A003B26454.thumb.jpeg.e2e15ce632f3bdd38e20ac8e58e93706.jpeg

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