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'64RI Precision Bass build


MrFingers
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Back in 2011, a friend of mine (being the real bassplayer of the band I'm in, because I was forced to play organ/guitar ) wanted a Top-Notch 1960's P-bass, as vintage correct as possible, and preferably in a fancy, rare colour, because he was so fond of [url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0_i4evBvFU]mine[/url]. So I picked on this: A late 1964 P-bass, just before the transition to the CBS-era. In february of this year, I placed an order with musikraft, since they could make a veneer fretboard, and a neck in the shape and width I wanted, with correct placing of the dots, and today it arrived in the mail. Coincidentally, the hardware I ordered from Darren Riley arrived also today. I already had a d*c*l from FrenderBawb, just to make sure I had the finishing touch first

The Neck:












The Hardware:


The decal:



The attentive reader might have noticed that there is something missing... something quite essential... Being the body. Because I couldn't find a vintage correct enough body from the companies that made those, I decided that I had one custom-built at my local [url=http://www.stijnkenens.eu/]luthier[/url] (those who've read the 1978 Musicmaster Bass resque know how good he is with all things wood) to my specs (I have a friend who has an actual 1964, so I had some measurements and HD pictures), which will be made somewhat in the next 2 weeks. The lacquer (nitro) is also ordered, and should arrive somewhere around half may (the company is in holiday ). Because he wanted a rare color, sunburst/white wasn't an option. And because he isn't THAT masculine, shell pink would be too much... So we settled on... [b]Shoreline Gold[/b]

The specs:

veneer rosewood fretboard
1.75" nutwidht
7.25" radius
vintage frets
"chunky C" profile
CTS/NOS-cap wiring
Seymour Duncan Antiquity I pickup
2-piece "off centre joined" alder body

My goal is to make it as vintage correct as is humanly possible (thus using the correct nailholes, paintstickmarks, ...), without making it so correct that it could be used as a fraud.

Special thanks go to [url=https://www.facebook.com/pages/Peterbuilt-Basses/300518246647095]Peter Boer[/url] for helping me get those things in the US (being a non-creditcard user is a PITA) and the aforementioned Stijn Kenens.

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In the meantime a custom carved bone nut was made (Thx Pete)










Today I've marked the holes for the countersink. The brackets which hold the gear for the tuner are folded together at the back of the tuner, and from 1963-ish, Fender started to drill ~9mm-ish holes in the headstock to make sure those brackets are in the headstock, making the tuner sit flush with the headstock... I've marked the diameter with 11mm, so that gives me a spare mm so I could see nothing would protrude from underneath the tuner... Those holes were drilled before the neck was finished, so that's the same thing as I'll do.

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@Toasted: "you can NEVER have enough P-basses"...
@Ricks: thanks, I'm also looking forward to it. The parts used are top-notch, so it should be an amazing bass in the end.


Anyway, some progress today: Routed and contoured. One small tearout, but the bits need some sharpening.







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[quote name='MrFingers' timestamp='1337334744' post='1658238']

[/quote]

Thanks for posting this.

I have just bought the exact same tuners [Fender Vintage RI reverse nickel] for my next Warmoth and noticed how the folded metal stuck out the back of the tuner plate and was wondering how to overcome this obstacle....I couldn't find anything anywhere else on the interweb about this!!
Until you posted this I had assumed they would just press into the wood! I was trying to imagine how many screws I'd break attempting to apply the appropriate torque!!



Now to source an appropriate countersinking bit and find a drill press I can borrow......


I was contemplating dismantling my JV to discover how that had been assembled.

Beginning to think I maybe should have just bought a set of Schallers instead......

Edited by Twigman
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they don't have to be pressed in the wood, Fender didn't countersink the holes until 1963/64, so from 1951 onwards, the tuners were just mounted on the headstock, with as a result a little gap between the tuner and the headstock. Doesn't affect the tuning ability nor the stability, it's just... "not tidy" :)



And you don't need a countersink drillbit, just use a 3/8" (9mm) drill bit for metal (with the conical point) and give it a spin or 2 in the drillpress (holes should be about 2 à 3mm deep)

Edited by MrFingers
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[quote name='MrFingers' timestamp='1337334725' post='1658236']


The Neck:






The specs:

veneer rosewood fretboard
1.75" nutwidht
7.25" radius
vintage frets
"chunky C" profile
CTS/NOS-cap wiring
Seymour Duncan Antiquity I pickup
2-piece "off centre joined" alder body

My goal is to make it as vintage correct as is humanly possible (thus using the correct nailholes, paintstickmarks, ...), without making it so correct that it could be used as a fraud.

Special thanks go to [url="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Peterbuilt-Basses/300518246647095"]Peter Boer[/url] for helping me get those things in the US (being a non-creditcard user is a PITA) and the aforementioned Stijn Kenens.
[/quote]

Not wishing to appear negative, I think this will be a very fine build & very similar to something I'd like to do myself - but:
To me - from the photo's - the frets don't look snug down onto the fingerboard radius, in the centres particularly, maybe a trick of the light?

Cheerz, John

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When I saw the pictures first, I was thinking the same thing, but in the flesh, the frets are top-notch. The rosewood was very dry, I gave it a lick of lemonoi, and now it's a lot darker and smoother, and the dark edge at the frets disappeared.

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Don't know if you've heard of him but there's an Isreali guy called Gil Yaron who does scarily authentic vintage builds and posts them all on TDPRI under the name of Preeb.
Well worth a look, not just at his bass builds

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I know Gil (and his work) and the efforts he makes in making authentic replica's... I wish I could mill a trussrod to exact vintage specifications, but I have neither the knowledge nor the tools for it, so I have to make some concessions...

Edited by MrFingers
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Telecaster Discussion Pages Re-Issue

For the hotlinkers among us
1956P: [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/bass-place/129433-56-precision-bass-build-help-needed.html"]click[/url]
1957P: [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/bass-place/139356-57-precision-bass-build.html"]click[/url]
1960J: [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/169606-1960-jazzbass-build.html"]click[/url]

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