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New Strings


guildbass
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I know, I know... But bear with me... I've been through the various posts on strings but what the posts tend not to say when talking aboiut string preference is how the user plays and what they play.

Right. I have a 1990 Streamer 4 string stage one which I will be recording with shortly.

My style is fingers only, with, for the purposes of the recordings, the majority of the time I'll be playing chords with each string allowed to ring (think House of the rising sun guitar style but slower!) critically, in many of these chords, the appropriate open string is allowed the stay ringing under the other notes to underpin the whole...In a sense, I'm trying to use the bass to perform the job of a keyboard droned chord as well as picking out the counterpoint. It sounds harder than it is but I need strings that enhance the Streamer's characteristic sounds with a bottom 'E' and 'A' that will not decay too fast

We only have bass, classical guitar and voice so the bass has to fill the spaces where necessary.

What I'm after is the opinions of bassists who enjoy a lyrical, melodic style where the instrument has to provide both an inder-pinning 'wash' of sound as well as a couter-point melody...So needs to have crisp, well defined notes and great sustain... Basically, the Streamer's signature sound.

Or should I simply stick a set of Warwick's strings on the thing!!!!

I would very much like info on brand and, critically, gauge/weights...Thanks chaps!

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hmmmm... not sure how much strings can help you out if you find the bass doesn't sustain as much as you want or need.

To me, good sustain is the combination of a very well made body/neck combination so the resonance starts there..enhanced by pickups/elecs and
decent cleanish strings.

The best strings I have used recently were some custom Newtones, and the strings ring for ages on open and fretted notes,
They are pretty lively but don't have an ultra bright zing when new..but then they also don't dull very quickly either so the sound is more consistant over a longer period.

I play fingerstyle on Sei J5 basses and if your strings can't ring at least 10 secs when plucked quite softly..esp open E and A, then you might need to look further than the strings.

As the string, IMO, is just one part of the whole resonating process...you might give yourself the best chance making sure the string is wound on the pegs very cleanly.
3-4 winds around the peg is enough for the lighter strings and maybe 3 max on the thicker string with no winds overlapping.

Edited by JTUK
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Wow! great stuff!

The Streamer has plenty of sustain but I want to retain that almost 'though a compressor' level but with some detail within the note.

I'm not after a sharp top per se...In fact the generic Warwick SS1 tone is sport on...I just don't want to put strings on that bugger it up and the way the top end manages to sit apart from the sustaining bottom 'E' and 'A' open strings without sounding out of balance is a key part of the sound (and is why I've been after a 1990 SS1 since I tried one in 1990!)

Because time is short I might not have the hours to play the toppiness out of totally virgin strings before we go in so the Newtones sound promising...Deans..Hmm...They sound interesting too....

Now... comparing light and medium gauges... How do each type effect sustain... Does a heavier string tend to have more initial attack....Does the higher tension effect sustain...

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If you are happy with the original tone then grab a set of Warwick Black labels, as thats what the bass was shipped with (presuming its purchased new).
Otherwise try and figure out what brand is on the bass atm. A few pic's might shed some light if you're stumped.

IME guage has very little impact on sustain wrt standard sets. Unless you jump from an E of 90 to an E of 110 the effects will be mimimal. To answer your question though I've always found that excessively thicker strings can be of lower sustain than thinner guages as tension/scale length comes into the equation.

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[quote name='Mog' timestamp='1322581789' post='1453079']
If you are happy with the original tone then grab a set of Warwick Black labels, as thats what the bass was shipped with (presuming its purchased new).
Otherwise try and figure out what brand is on the bass atm. A few pic's might shed some light if you're stumped.

IME guage has very little impact on sustain wrt standard sets. Unless you jump from an E of 90 to an E of 110 the effects will be mimimal. To answer your question though I've always found that excessively thicker strings can be of lower sustain than thinner guages as tension/scale length comes into the equation.
[/quote]

Perfect...That's EXACTLY what i needed to learn!...Thanks!

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[quote name='Mog' timestamp='1322581789' post='1453079']
If you are happy with the original tone then grab a set of Warwick Black labels, as thats what the bass was shipped with (presuming its purchased new).
Otherwise try and figure out what brand is on the bass atm. A few pic's might shed some light if you're stumped.
[/quote]
No, The bass wasn't bought new, it was bought this year and is unlikely to have Warwick strings on...however, when I first played an SS1 in 1990 (and started my obsession with the SS1) it was new in a music shop so DID have Warwick Strings on...Were they Black Labels in 1990...???

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That I dont know lad. Maybe Warwickhunt might know, he's the resident wick expert. I'm sure he wouldnt object to a pm.

Failing that theres the Warwick forum and Warwick CC but IMO Warwick aren't the greatest to deal with lately. In fact its one of the reasons I've moved to Spector.

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[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1322594433' post='1453348']
Totally agree with JTUK about Newtone Strings. They're amazing! I've had a set on my 6er for a year now and they're only just starting to go dull... I really don't look after my strings either!
[/quote]

Well my buddy's the sound guy for Porcupine Tree so he say's he'll snag me something... they get quite a few sets of strings chucked at 'em. I'll look at a set of Black labels or some DR's later... Might string the Spector NS 2000 with a medium light set of something nice too...

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I've got DR Extra Life 45-105 on my SS1 and I'm pretty pleased with it. Even though these are coated strings they don't feel it - I suppose they may feel a little smoother but they don't feel plasticy at all. I have also tried Warwick EMP strings but the DRs do it for me. When comparing the two on the same bass I'd say the DRs are punchier and more "scooped" in terms of sound whereas the Warwicks are pretty flat by comparison. I've been very impressed with the DR extra life strings and also use them on my SB1000 but unfortunately cannot use them on my Spector Euro 5 LX as it requires a tapered "B" to fit in its bridge, otherwise they would be my first choice string for all my basses.

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Have you looked at Overwater strings. I found them very well balanced on my basses and have a nice general tone with clear mids to hi's.

I'm not a huge fan of Warwick strings. They tend to be very hi ended and don't last too long either. Originally my Warwick came with Elite strings when i bought it new in 89. I had electronic probs on the bass and it was returned to Warwick themselves. They returned it with lots of goodies incl 3 sets of elites, sweatshirt and other bits and bobs.

I use Fender nickels on my jazz and find them pretty good for fingerstyle.

I've also gone for Elixirs on 2 basses incl my 6 string mainly because they last a lot longer but not sure if they'll have the definition you are looking for.

Dave

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It's ridiculous really but in 30 years of live playing I've never worried about strings much... Just play what's on the instrument and boil 'em to get the tone back if they go dead. However, because we're recording now and because the bass sound is so pivotal, and because the Warwick SS1 AND the 1998 Spector NS2000-4 are both very 'toney' and both have distinct and equally appealing sounds suddenly, preserving or at least not catastrophically buggering up the sound has suddenly become important. I think the DR's sound interesting...
Thank you so much for all your help and thanks for reminding me that a different gauge will change the neck tension...It's taken a while to dial in the neck's of both basses...THAT is definitely one thing I don't want to be doing on the day!

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