JJMotown

Cheap basses are hit and miss, some are utter cr&p, and some are pretty decent. For them to be good you'll need to know how to set them up to your liking. My home practice bass is a cheap P, cost a grand sum of £10, after some work setting it up and aligning a few parts, it's now a really nice player, neck feels really nice, cheap pickup sounds pretty good, tuners turn super smooth, hipshots on my other basses don't feel any better. I use it to practice and record with and never misses a beat.

You can remove the rust from the springs by soaking them in white vinegar, it's a very mild acid and will remove the rust, just rinse with water afterwards to balance pH levels. I wouldn't remove the bridge screws yourself. They are simply too old and rusted.

Totally agree. Any tension on those rusty screw heads will result in the tops shearing off and the shaft of the screw left in the body. So the shaft will have to be drilled out, which is best left to a luthier.

The positive here is that the wear on the body matches that of the frets, so definitely genuine.

That's gonna need a refret. Shame.

Clear cache.

Funny you say that. I've seen the prices Rich Tone charge leap up in the past year, primarily used gear, to prices above that on fleabay. Brought from them in the past, but with their increased pricing system, no longer.

Pretty sure it's early/mid 80s. I have a Cimar precision mij from 1984, which has the identical hardware.

See above.

Maple body, only vm series had duncan designed pups. Also the neck should be tinted and glossy, not matte finish.

That's not a CV70, it's a vintage modified (VM70s) jazz.

Sounds like you don't know what plek is, and what can be done. Go learn about it.

Zenta, Raven, Shaftsbury, Aria - there's a few others. Most of this type of bass were made in the early to mid 70s in Japan, but a similar line were also made in italy around the same time. They look almost identical with a few exceptions.

If the logo is missing, how do you know its an Aria? There were several brands of these types of basses in the 70s. It's essentially a P bass, so any P bass wiring will work.

What difference is there between the nord and the stock pup?

Not many stringed instruments made from Oak! Bloody heavy.

Sire P5, has rounded fretboard edges, so has that worn in feeling neck, but not as fat as the fender roadworn. Easy to upgrade if you want to take it to the next level.

No, because they are medium scale, as discussed above.

You want tapewounds.

Seemed I've touched a nerve! Obviously most I've seen, course I've not seen all the reviews out there. Some apparently think it's OK. I'd stay way clear.

Interesting, every review I've seen, and I've seen a fair few all say how bad this bass is, and to avoid. Is on most reviewers worst basses of 2024 list.

Ebays new advertising should read... It's NOT free to sell on eBay anymore. Well, that (free bit) didn't last long!

Looks like a bitsa. Body something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193779194012?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&ff=11&customid=EAIaIQobChMI1bXgp_PoiQMVG5RQBh2gBgT1EAQYAyABEgKQYfD_BwE

Yes, Westone Concord.