andytoad
-
Posts
864 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by andytoad
-
Ok so....update... As expected the screws on the bridge were not budging, I did not want to leave as is with the horrible earth wire attached externally, the internal earth was buggered due to bridge corrosion. Attempt 1 with this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296857049181 Whilst the initial tool happily rounded off the screws, the secondary tool would not grip the screw enough to move it and kept slipping. Probably not designed with heavy corrosion in mind,but rather just rounded off screws.
-
Sandberg California-I VS4 Precision, MN, Aguilar 4P-60 Well, I've spuffed quite alot of money recently, so could do with freeing up some cash. For sale is this rather nice bass I purchased from this very parish about 5 years ago. I love the build quality, the block inlays, body grain and its active umph. I had a d-tuner installed (im sure i have the original in my spares cupboard if I rummage around) and is sporting new super slinkys. There is (what I think is) a surface crack/scratch on the heal which is pictured, this has not deteriorated in any way during my tenure, so presume its not an issue. Comes with original receipt/paperwork, Sandberg soft case in good condition and comfy strap with straplocks The previous owner replaced the stock pickups. • Ash body • One-piece Maple neck + maple fretboard (22 frets with 0 fret), D-tuner • Aguilar 4P-60 pickups • Glockenklang 2-way 9V active preamp (push/pull volume knob for active/passive - tone knob works as tone control in passive mode (passive tone has a classic gnarly 60s P-bass tone and active bass a modern boosted tone) • Sandberg hardware in gold finish (slightly faded over time) • Nut width: 40mm • Weight: 4.2kg / 9.2lbs Price is plus postage or I can meet in the kent county for a filthy carpark bass meet. Tea and biscuits at mine is an option. I will give it a month and possibly withdraw once my wages materialise!!!- 4 replies
-
- 10
-
-
Just noticed the jazz with the earth plate you have been commenting on, possible tidy solution to save removal?
-
@bremen I guess a pilar drill and a decent metal bit? I will find out when I call..
-
@ossyrocks I'm in the SE and Andy Crockett is my go to chap. I need to have speaks with him in a day or two, so see how we go. I leave it in situ if it was earthed, but the original wire in non functional after testing
-
A cool cheers @ossyrocks , yeah pickguard is a modern replacement, i dont think i will try to source an original, but i reckon i will go for a roadworn or something in keeping with the body state. Interested to know more about bridge position, if the current screws sheer off, would this give the option to reposition (and leave the originals in situ (but hidden under the bridge)?
-
Gonna keep it as is, same as with the neck (aside from the refret). Also if the bridge plate is still earthed, I will keep it in situ, bearing in mind the previous posts.
-
Well after stripping down the rest of the body, there is still a connected earthwire to the bridge. I will try continuity with a multi meter, I can only presume its stopped working.
-
Yup the saddles are OK, the G-string screw was corroded to the bridge plate, but I managed to ease it off. What's the views on applying rust remover to the springs and screws? Should I go me gentle with WD-40 or the like? I'm thinking the latter.
-
Yup, I've ordered some penetrant, see how we go. Going to call my local chap first to see if he can remove the screws if I damage them.
-
I could give my usual chap a call and see if he does that sort of thing, seeing as he will be refretting it anyway. Good prompt
-
Yup
-
It's in an interestingly nasty condition, I don't particularly want to touch it with my actual skin!! Where's my HAZMAT suit?
-
They don't look too happy at the suggestion of movement that's for sure. Chance of getting them all out without breaking? Slim I reckon.
-
I've kept the earth wire soldered 8n place so I can default back if I need to, poor old bridge plate!
-
And so it begins... strings off. Deffo some serious wear on the frets..
-
..and any rash like symptoms
-
I'm hoping they are, I'm saving that discovery for after the bridge tho 🙂. I've got a multimeter so can check bits.
-
It does kinda of look like I need the WHO to advise on the way forward with it. I'm sure I saw it twitch.
-
I've got to say, it does seem to have that instant playability, you know the connection you get when you first lay your hands on a bass? It feels right. I had an Olympic white '71 that should have been likewise, I really wanted it to be a keeper, but it just diddnt have 'it'.
-
First up, the bridge. Its in a hell of a state, I don't know if I can free up the screws? If not, I'm thinking of treating with a dash of penetrating oil (careful of the body) over the period of a few days and then gentle persuasion with the screwdriver. Dissassemble, try to clean back the rot and see if the components are still usable. Possibly replace with a quality aged replacement. Any thoughts?
-
Off the back of the Vintage Fender thread I purchased a '74 P-bass on Reverb, beaten up just how I like them (not everyone's cup of tea I know). It needs work to get it up to scratch, the main things being: 1. A refret. 2. Replace the installed electronics back to the original (if they are usable) and earth wire 3. Change the scratch plate 4. See if I can free off the bridge from the body consider reconditioning or replacing. 5. Add my favourite flats. Happy to listen to constructive advice as I update this thread.
- 136 replies
-
- 11
-
-
Can I do fictional? Who could forget the best 'air bass' ever......? And dont get me started Derek Smalls. Infact most of Spinal Tap play bass.
-
Ah OK, I only had previous experience years ago on a US P with steels on, could be worth a go as I mainly play with flats these days.
-
Sounds like a plan!
