Sparky Mark

I should hope so too! The single H is a rarish bird with the pup in the MM sweet spot.

I think the Bongo could well attain iconic status (if it hasn't already) behind the Stingray as Musicman's second most important bass design. Almost all other Musicman basses are closely based on the Stingray and those that aren't don't seem to be particularly successful in the marketplace.

This is a good observation and one that I never noticed myself for some reason? Perhaps because I never sit down at a gig but this photo does clearly show the point on the Bongo's lower profile compared to soft curves of the Ray and Sterling.

I found mine really comfortable to play due to the contouring and light weight. I just couldn't justify keeping a third single pup MM.

Or a heft.

I had a polished stainless steel front rack mounted ABM600 and it was monstrously powerful. So much so that it was wasted on the gigs I was playing in the good old days (2019 and before). They're definitely amps that you should dial in using your ears (not literally) as some rather odd looking settings gave me the best sounds. They are also the most flexible heads out there with just about every feature (apart from a tuner and a HPF) you'll need.

Bump.

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/can-i-damage-my-cab-by-playing-too-loud-too-low.1491079/ The answer is still yes here as well.

I think you are ignoring the first part of Bill's post that clearly states the thermal rating of cabs is no guarantee that you won't damage a speaker with a lower rated amplifier. Even if the RH750 is only capable of 300 watts RMS output it is still more than capable of killing a 400 watt thermal rating cab even without distortion. Max the volume and the low end eq then try some heavy slaps and pulls and see how that ends. The answer to the thread question is still yes; it even says "too loud too low".

I'm confident that I could destroy any 400W (thermal rating) bass cab with a 300W RMS output bass amplifier with irresponsible EQ settings.

An HPF doesn't make a system idiot proof. Over excursion might still happen at frequencies above the cut off at very high volumes. Just sayin', no offence intended. 😇

I'm saying that replacing rather than cleaning pots on a pre CBS vintage P bass will reduce its value, possibly by several hundreds of pounds. £22 suddenly isn't so expensive.

On a 61 P bass....?

Thanks Andy. It's the new swivel type I believe. I'll be using it to hopefully improve scratchy pots on a passive p bass so no real voltages or pcb tracks/components to be affected. I think I'll try spraying some into a bottle top then use a small pipette to apply it.

Thanks for this information Andy. I've just ordered a 5oz aerosol can of D5 (£22.95/$30 delivered) but wonder how best to apply a tiny amount into potentiometers? My experience with this type of aerosol with the thin tube is that a quick press of the button still releases a pot flooding amount of fluid; or maybe the D5 can is better? Thanks again.

Received my paperback copy yesterday and thoroughly enjoying it. I'll be 58 in a couple of weeks so Phil's teenage musical memories resonate with mine wonderfully. The chapters are the perfect length too, allowing for 10 to 20 minute reads as and when you fancy a chuckle or two. Thanks Phil.

This was how I received the case; just in need of a good clean I thought. However, it soon became clear that large areas of both front and back had been painted over with black spray paint. Removing the black paint whilst being careful not to damage the tolex allowed the white/silver band name to come through prompting this thread to find out more about or maybe even hear from Brian. It now looks like this:-

Hi Neal, Thank you so much for this and I'm so sorry for your loss. I'm afraid that I have restored the case to as good a condition as I could which involved removing Brian's artwork from both sides. I also made some enquiries about this type of case here : -

Probably the only sure way is to take the grill of the front of the combo, remove the speaker and see if the impedance is marked on the rear of it.