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Sparky Mark
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Everything posted by Sparky Mark
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Great result. It's so satisfying when things like that go well isn't it? You fixed the speaker fault and got the cab back in action.
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Yes, exactly. The amp isn't involved at all in the PP3 testing, so cannot be damaged. (I can see how you misinterpreted my point, but we are on the same page).
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The great thing about testing with a PP3 is that you can't damage your amp and you shouldn't be able to damage the speakers. I wouldn't leave the battery across the speakers any longer than to check their direction of travel. You can try the different wiring schemes risk free.
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Yes, just plug the speaker cable into the cab jack socket, then put the other jack connector ( that you'd normally plug into the amp) across the terminals of the PP3. Put the tip on the positive PP3 terminal. All cones should then move out (or in) all the same. If some go in while others come out, they're out of phase and the cab will sound gutless.
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I paid twice that for my one second-hand. -
That's not surprising at all. The LM2 is the head that really made Markbass. Some thought the limiter was too severe once the LM2 hit its max output, but hey, at that point you probably need another rig.
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I predict this will sell today. That's an unbelievable price.
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Once all connected up it would be a good idea to do the PP3 9v battery test to confirm all the speakers are in phase with each other before connecting to an amp.
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I'll guess there are four 8 ohm speakers and a tweeter. There are plenty of wiring diagrams for connecting the four 10 inch speakers to give you an 8 ohm cab. The tweeter connections seem to be a little less clear. I have found a scruffy diagram from Talkbass for the Peavey 410tvx cab but cannot confirm it's correct but it looks okay.
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Lovely rig, according to reviews comparing them, the Markbass 500 watt class D sounds punchier than the 800 watt version.
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I think that a 10 year old LM3 should be around £200 to £250 depending on the condition. The cab about the same, so you definitely got an excellent deal but not stupidly so. It makes me smile when I see the ridiculous prices chancers try for on ebay. First option is to place a wanted thread on Basschat.
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I can certainly pack it safely if someone wants to arrange a courier. -
SOLD. As new condition Rickenbacker 4003S in the beautiful (and rare) matte black with certificate, manual, unopened dusting cloth, allen keys, case (with key) and bridge pickup bezel fitted (£46 from Rickysounds) and original bridge pickup cover. This finish is more like satin than matte and feels incredibly smooth, almost teflon-like and plays faster than either matte or gloss lacquers. The frets are unmarked and the case is also as new. Weight is 9lbs according to digital bathroom scales. RRP is £2,789, retail around £2,499 and The Bass Gallery has one second-hand at £1,935. I'd like £1,580 or near offer collected from or meet up near(ish) to Hertford. Thanks for looking.
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I wonder if the difference in heft (apologies for introducing the "H word") that several bassists hear is down to high pass filtering used in more modern amplifier designs? Maybe old designs didn't have any HPF implemented so produced a big fat output but ran out of headroom sooner? Newer designs might be able to get louder but at the expense of big, deep low end? I realise speakers actually make the sound but hope you know what I mean.
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Is there actually a difference in the electrical signal sent to the speaker from a class D amp when compared to a class AB amp?
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That really surprises me. The D800 and D800+ get almost universal praise both here and on Talkbass.
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I think it's also important to know how to sculpt "your sound" with any amplifier's EQ section. I prefer a boost around 100Hz, some cut around 340Hz and a boost around 1.2 to 1.5kHz. If I can control those areas I can nearly always get a decent tone from an amp. Use your ears not your eyes; everything might end up at noon (nominally flat) but some systems (full signal chain including fingers thru to speaker cab) may need a kick in certain frequencies. I always got the impression that Shuttles were intrinsically very clean but could be EQ'd to almost any tone due to the highly flexible EQ section. I'm sure I've blamed amps for being poor in the past because I wasn't familiar with what I needed to do EQ wise.
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As you previously advised, you bought your old combo second-hand over 5 years ago so now it might just not be worth throwing big money at it. You can easily determine if the combo speaker is okay buy connecting it to another amp. The CMD121H is an excellent combo so I'd look out for a good condition used Little Mark head of any type (they'll all fit) to swap into the combo chassis.
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There's definitely a difference between how a LM2 and a class AB LM3 sound with both filters off and all EQ at noon. In my experience there's less of a difference between class AB and class D versions of the LM3. I think possible changes to the HPF, preamp board and limiter from LM2 to LM3 may be more significant than the power amp topology.
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Simply the best 210 I've ever played through. Definitely worth the extra carry effort. I bought two because I thought one would rarely be enough on gigs but I was so wrong; really amazing cabs. -
The 600 watts refers to the maximum mains input power requirement, not the amp's speaker output power. It makes sense that with class D being more efficient than class AB it would require less input power as less is being lost as heat.
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If you can see the two aluminium heatsinks through both sets of side vent slots then you have class AB (below). If you only see one aluminium heatsink then you have class D.
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I wouldn't get hung up about the class of the power amp. All LM heads sound very similar due to the common pre amp section. The LM2 sounds as good as any Markbass head IMO and if you can live without the adjustable DI or need massive power then it's a winner even now.
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Oh, yes the LM800 is ckass D.
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There are no Markbass reliability issues that are different to any other manufacturer. Electronics of any type will eventually fail, the same as any mechanical system. If you bought a 15 year old car you might expect more problems due to wear and tear. There's no way of knowing how well or badly an amp has been used, so cosmetic condition is probably the only available indication.
