4 Strings

Am I the only one who would ask for this song to be removed from the set list?

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' date='Apr 30 2010, 02:29 AM' post='823643'] You won't believe this, geezer, but I have used some double sided tape and spent the last hour trying lots of different positions [b][font="Century Gothic"][size=1][i](oohh matron!! )[/i][/size][/font][/b] and when I have found the one that is most comfortable for me, I came back here to show the pictures and noticed your post showing that the position you have fitted yours is exactly the same I have found to be the most comfortable!! What a coincidence It doesn't get in the way of slapping and it allows you to pluck the E string without knocking your fingers against the thumb rest. look!! Glad to see someone who doesn't mind drilling a couple of holes into their guitar to make it better for them. I winder we can get too precious about them, thinking more about the next owner than actually using them ourselves.

[quote name='Pkomor' post='822894' date='Apr 29 2010, 11:53 AM']Have you got any pics of yours? it sounds exactly what im after![/quote] I'll do my best tonight from my phone

[quote name='lscolman' post='823099' date='Apr 29 2010, 03:41 PM']Hi, Yep another day gone, another couple of options discussed with John. This time, it's for an active/passive switch. Sounds like a plan. No idea where to place this! I wonder if it could be placed on the rear of the bass, slighting recessed in the control cavity. I don't like the standard silver toggle switches. Definately decided against the XLR now. Current plan for the LED switch is a smaller version of the standard pickup knob (which John has managed to source) This would be placed where the jack socket would normally be, and the jack socket located to the side of the body. I've used Paint to play about with what it looks like. Appreciate any comments. Cheers, Lee[/quote] Presumably from L to R: Pickup switch, vol, tone, active toggle, trable, middle, bass, led switch For me (simple chap) I'd rather the led switch was round the back, especially if you succeed in getting the active switch there. (I would also lose the tone knob). Could the led switch be snuggled between the tuning machines?

[quote name='GeeCee' post='819992' date='Apr 26 2010, 09:46 PM']Why not go the whole hog and have a Roadie made in the GA shape with a 24-fret neck? That's what I have. I would also recommend relocating the jack socket to the edge of the body, to stop those ugly stress cracks that seem to plague most Jaydees that have been well used. Also, in case you didn't know, the xlr is not a balanced line out like on a Wal, it's just an alternative method of plugging the bass in so if you don't already use that kind of jack with your cables, I would ask if you really need it. The body looks cleaner without it.[/quote] Here-here on the GA body and 24 fret neck, great idea! Also agree on the XLR, unnecessary to my mind. Not seen the stress cracks though, mine seems fine and has had a busy life. Its going to be great, and I'm sure John won't mind you changing things (even the colour) until he's actually started on it (you might wait until you know them all and tell him once though). Another days wait gone!

[quote name='thedonutman' post='820074' date='Apr 26 2010, 10:36 PM']Sounds like a good deal. Do they all have metal buckles, though?[/quote] the buckles offered are metal (different colour finishes) but I didn't want any buckles knocking about in my guitar case so he offered other adjustment types (the slots etc) which didn't require metalware and/or a selection of button hole positions. I ended up having no adjustment at all as I knew the length I use and its not likely to change. Its wide enough for me not to require any padding, but I suppose that's personal preference. (I also had little in the way of edge decoration - just a single line, simple sort me)

I just posted a recommendation for this guy from the 'bay [url="http://shop.ebay.co.uk/crooky2/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340"]http://shop.ebay.co.uk/crooky2/m.html?_nkw...p;_trksid=p4340[/url] His name is Ted and he'll make you a bespoke strap exactly how you want it. Really nice leather.

I've seen a couple of recent threads relating to straps and I'd like to recommend 'Hidebashers' in Wales for bespoke leather straps. (no website but sells off the peg on the dreaded ebay here: [url="http://shop.ebay.co.uk/crooky2/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340"]http://shop.ebay.co.uk/crooky2/m.html?_nkw...p;_trksid=p4340[/url] ) Just made leather straps to my design, dimensions etc for my lad an myself for £21 each. Nice and wide, thick leather, lots of embossed lettering, holes punched for straplocks (rather than the normal hole+slit for buttons) etc all to how I specified it. Really pleased with the results, need to buy another bass so I can order another strap! (no relation or interest apart from being a satisfied customer)

For me, a Roadie is the simple model and so I would rather a simple bass. Mine is a Roadie 1A, one pickup and active and beautifully made, been my staple bass for >25 years. I wouldn't even bother with the xlr if you're not going to use it, just adds clutter. I'd ask for no tone control (you get bass/middle/treble with the active, mine has never moved off '10' and adds an unnecessary knob), binding is personal preference, I like without but looks cool with. Can the roller nut rattle at all - how about a simple brass one? I would spend the led money on a bookmatched front if you like the exotic look. For me, a def 'no' to gold fittings! More importantly, decide on one or two pickups, or whether to just go for a Mark King with the straight through neck etc - although Roadies have that 'I'm not a Mark King' something about them! Also an ebony fingerboard is wonderful - especially if you're going to slap - not sure if they're standard. You'll be pleased I'm sure with the bass, I'm envious. Be sure to let us see it. I have no need for any more basses but if I ha some money to burn I'd take the pleasure in ordering one from John. They are wonderful. >Quick edit - Don't be tempted not to have a passive mode, when the batteries go they go quick, easier to flick the switch than change the battery during the gig. Passive is a nice Jacko sort of middly sound, useful in itself. (I'm getting excited myself about this!)

Change the pickups and you'll hear the difference straight away, change the bridge and I doubt you will notice at all. Jazz type bridges work fine, the screws under the saddles transmit the vibrations through the metal bridge plate to the body unless its warped. Only the bent bit at the end which hangs onto the string ball ends matters here, and if you're satisfied it doesn't flex under vibration (I'm sure it doesn't) you won't benefit from changing it. If its string through body you will get no benefit from any new bridge. I have just let a nice 'J&D Brothers' P-bass go, it was lovely, nice neck, one piece solid alder body but the sound was a little thin. Its in the good hands of a youngster learning jazz now, but new pickups would have made it a killer bass. Cost me nothing from the dreaded ebay and is as new. I think its definitely worthwhile getting the best from any bass you use, as long as you can afford it and know that little or no financial value will be added by 'polishing a turd'. We seem to be so pent up about spoiling valuable instruments and feeling foolish investing in unvaluable instruments. Its your bass, enjoy it and get the best from it - if you can't, sell it and buy another. Having said that, I don't let anyone near my older basses!

Any music shop selling guitars in Manchester will sell you strap locks. If they must be Schaller, call them first. Use Google. I can recommend the Schaller type having just researched straplocks. The reasons are they are well made (and so are most of the others) but mainly because they don't cause the point where strap hangs to be so far from the body as some of the others, EB type in particular which causes a good 15mm gap between the body and the strap. This means more strain on the screw. Also you don't need to drill out the screw holes with Schaller. I have just fitted these and a Hipshot to my Stingray, its pre-EB and I don't consider modifications to it lightly! Dead easy, uses the same screw holes and took hardly any time, just make sure you keep the original tuner etc safe. You'll need a screw driver for the straplocks too. Youtube has a Hipshot fitting video and they come with clear instructions. (I know arty types are normally rather impractical but its a darn site harder to put strings on and tune a bass than to fit these items, just get on with it.)

Try a Hiwatt first, Orange is great, but Hiwatt tick it for me.

Sure that's the right one for your bass? I have the MB1 for my Stingray and its perfect. Looks like the original and the post is the same size and fit. Works too.

No, no names. They end up with rambling descriptions, like 'The Old Fender, You Know, The One From the Auction' to distinguish it from 'The Old Fender, You Know, The Bitsa'. To be fair, the second gets shortened to 'The Bitsa' but just as often is referred to as 'The Old Banger'. If any deserve a name it's the Jaydee which has given continuous, loyal service for many years as 'My Bass' until the recent arrival of others and demotion to 'The Jaydee'. Even after all these years I'm afraid I'm one of those who see it as a wooden guitar as opposed to a personality. Hope I never sell it, but also hope I never talk to it.

These old Selmers are quite sought after, you could flog it and buy something you actually want. Its definitely worth fixing, this place would certainly enthusiastic about it [url="http://www.chambonino.com/"]http://www.chambonino.com/[/url] though I've never had cause to use them. If it was mine I'd like to see it fixed and try it to see if I would like it, if not, send it to a welcoming home.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='800627' date='Apr 9 2010, 10:15 AM']Compared to my Modulus Sonic Hammer, my Jaydee was warm and soft. But don't take my word for it.[/quote] Useful comparison, although the acoustics and recording vary. Take your point about your warm Jaydee, I must say mine is very bright, but I would agree doesn't have the harsh edge of my Stingray with the treble full up. The posting wanted harsh, so Stingray for that. Mahogany is a very hard wood compared to the usual woods used for bodes, I would have thought this would have given the Jaydee a bright sound, if any audible influence as the Mark Kings have through necks anyway.

[quote name='Gust0o' post='801009' date='Apr 9 2010, 04:24 PM']I'm liking this jeans analogy. Now, I wear my jeans around my arse... so, how does this work now? [/quote] Equivalent to a really long strap. Now how you can play properly with one of those is another thread. Or should be. Goodness, I'm feeling a right nark with all this, all I want to do is play bass!

[quote name='paul h' post='800096' date='Apr 8 2010, 07:25 PM']Jeans!!! I keep meaning to ask the shiny fans, what kind of jeans do you all wear? I assume you wear plain, dark denim ones. Or do you wear faded or distressed ones? [/quote] Good thought, funnily enough I never buy pre-faded jeans, if I can help it as it seems so fake and some look, frankly, ridiculous with a pale stripe down the front and back of the legs. Trouble is, its getting harder and harder to buy 'normal' jeans. Following this through, do you think the time will come when buying a 'normal', shiny, new looking bass will be difficult among a plethora of increasingly less convincing, so-called relics? Greg

Perhaps now is the time to begin establishing a refinishing company, in a couple of years there's going to be a lot of customers.

Jaydee. Roadie or Mark King, matters not, they can bite your head off. Stick it through a Hartke rig and you can use it to shave. Mine was criticised during the last recording in which I was involved as being too bright. I bought a Stingray so I can have the bite but with lots of bottom too.

My first bass was given to me and, ungrateful wretch that I am, I found it so horrible I broke it. It was an Avon EBO copy. Sounded horrible, played horribly and had a horrible dodgy jack. Better things could have been done with the materials. It was a bad bass. On the other hand I bought a 'J and D Brothers' Precision of the dreaded ebay. It was £50 including a really good quality gig bag, a 20W combo and a book. Chap never used any of it much and it was all as new. The bass is Chinese and has a J pickup near the bridge as well as the P pickup. Neck is great (except for 1 high fret) the body is in two pieces (Fenders are in three) of alder, maple neck with a rosewood fingerboard and finished to look like the Funk Machine (well, sunburst and tortoise guard). I bought it as a gift but kept it (eventually gone to a youngster learning jazz now). It plays very nicely and, to my ears, sounds great too - if a little thin on the J pickup. A veritable bargain, no problem to me having the 'wrong' name on the end.

Relicing is to put lice back where they were, for example, in my barnet. If a verb is to be made from the noun shouldn't it be relicking or relic-ing? If anyone has ever seen The Fiftyfours the bass player and the singer have a bit of a bundle towards the end of their last number. A Squier bass and (a rather nice) Grestch Electro-matic clash a few times during this, the scars of war appearing on both. This will speed the effect but at least is some fun to do and isn't fake.

I have put a Hip Shot Extender on my Musicman, which has the brass nut, and it works well. Probably would with the plastic nut also but maybe it will wear less - over a prolonged period of 'extending'. There can be no sonic difference from a fretted note with a brass nut. With an open string there may well be slight difference but I very, very rarely play open strings (apart from low E) as the tone is completely different to fretted notes anyway. Maybe a lot of Mark King style slapping in E would make it worthwhile. Surely the only reason to replace a perfectly good plastic or bone nut with brass is because it looks like brass. I remember in the 80s this was popular, even graphite nuts to ease tuning. Makes no odds to me though.

[quote name='BruceBass3901' post='796628' date='Apr 5 2010, 02:56 PM']I have just had a Private Message on Talkbass.com saying the same thing about the weight. I understand that there is a huge possibilty that the bass will be rather heavy, but I really have my heart set on it. If worst comes to the worst, I have to sit on my amp [/quote] Having been used to a Jaydee with a solid mahogany body and neck for many years my Stingray is a lightweight. However I'm sure its heavier than some other basses but, personal opinion here, I wouldn't get too bogged down in a pound here, a few ounces there. A body heavier than another doesn't make it a bad bass, unless you have a shoulder problem.

[quote name='theosd' post='796629' date='Apr 5 2010, 02:57 PM']It is, of course. It sounded different, but definitely more 'Ray like.[/quote] I know its a generally held belief that the brightly coloured maple finger board sounds brighter but I must admit I cannot see how, being softer and less dense than rosewood. I would also challenge that anybody could actually hear the difference, given identical bodies/pickups/leads/amps/speakers etc. All these other factors will over-ride any change to the tone the fretboard material can make. Now if the frets themselves were made of something different... I love Stingrays and, for me maple looks better on a Stingray whatever the body, some prefer to play on the lighter colour (bit like a piano with the black and white on the keys reversed) but this is, of course, totally personal and aesthetic.