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Posts posted by SamIAm
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EBB5 Head String Anchor Rev 2 lol
The brass connector thing is held in place partly by the face being too small for it to pass through and also by the protrusion of the string holding grub screws into their channels.
We shall see if this bears up any better under the load.
S'manth x
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2 hours ago, Random Guitarist said:
Sounds really useful, can you share any details on name/location?
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OMG
I stumbled across a makerspace not 15 minutes drive from where I live. Various shop woodwork machines (saws/planers/sanders), lathe, laser cutter and a kick donkey 3D printer and a couple of industrial size CNC machines being nursed into life.
Seem a really nice bunch of folks and and their monthly fee is within my budget .... hmmmm
S'manth
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On 09/06/2022 at 04:40, crazycloud said:
No, they don't. I was suggested as an instructional if you wanted to make your own. They didn't do a 5 anyway.
For a headless bass bridge try Nova in Brazil. Andre is on TB @Passini. Several people there have used them and the quality is VG. I'll be using them for my upcoming headless 6s.
Thanks ... a few folks have suggested the tuners by @Andre_Passini, they sound really well made and look totally gorgeous!
S'manth x
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6 hours ago, tauzero said:
I recently put a Zynthian together and also have another Pi 4 powered softsynth playing SF2 via Fluidsynth - https://github.com/albedozero/fluidpatcher but I've modified mine to use a 20x4 character display.
The approach I've taken to powering ESP32 and Raspberry Pi things is to just use a 9V 5.5/2.1 DC socket with a bridge rectifier to avoid embarrassing reverse polarity catastrophe and buck converters set to 5V running to Vin. For Arduinos I also use a bridge rectifier but I just put the 7.5V from the bridge rectifier into Vin. That means not using any USB connectors for powering devices (Zynthian is an exception to this, but I had no say about the means of powering it - a headless Zynthian I've made, if I bother boxing it up, will be 9V powered).
Looking back at the pictures of your mockup, I see Squishbox is in there so you may already have got to Fluidpatcher, it supersedes Squishbox.
Were we separated at birth!? lol
It sounds like you've some great fun, what's your pedalboard like these days?
I've a R4 Pi with a HiFiBerry DAC+ADC Pro hat on it.
I've tried Zynthian, Squishbox, Modep/Patchbox ... the treefallsound pi-Stomp Core is the one I'd really like to get running but it's all been a massive fail so far
mt32-pi looks cool too! and I really fancy having a play with sonic-pi.
But I just can't get any sound out of my HiFiBerry; Jack fails to start ... my knowledge of Jack/ALSA/etc is 0.5/10 at most which doesn't help. I've gone back to basics and am playing with HIFIBERRYOS just to make sure my HiFiBerry is actually working ... but I've yet to have any success (I think I've a cheap I2S audio card in my ESP32 starter kit I could repurpose). I've a box of 1/4 jacks, push-rotary encoders, pretty LEDs etc all set to go but ... but other projects are taking up more of my attention; I guess I just need to focus! So much fun to be had.
I also have a "vision" (Cue inspiring music) of combing various elements into a single box and wrapping them all in a nice uniform html5 UI (Playing with masonite and FastAPI). I stumbled over this the other week and really fancy implementing a web based HX edit type tool using this kind of approach ... it would also allow really tight integration between a Trampa type scribble strip foot controller with my Stomp.
S'manth x
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3 hours ago, tauzero said:
I think the current draw of an HX Stomp is around 1A @9V, so just running off a 10000 mAh 5V USB bank should give about 5 hours of use.
Step-up voltage regulators seem pretty cheap and you'd only need a 2A capable one. I've only used step-downs so far. One thing I do prefer is fixed voltage ones rather than adjusting the voltage with a pot, which is probably a silly preference.
Have you any plans to publish the plans and software?
Incidentally, I do love the ESP32 but I feel guilty about not using all its capabilities. I built a footswitch for page turning (and line up/down) using an ESP32 for BLE, and it's a pretty simple little thing.
Cool video!
I also want to try to power my Ant Amp from the same battery, but I have a 20,000 lying about ... the Ant has a mains power input only and I've not yet had any success getting hold of the schematic for it yet.
I was thinking to build a wee intelligent widget for the Stomp, to use the Quickcharge protocol to request exactly what it wants ... but I've not done that yet, I did buy a handful of cheap power boosters (80 pence each) which claim (and reviews backup) can boost, tho they do look a lot like Buck converters! I must try one to see if I can run the Stomp.
And ... oh yes I hear you ... the ESP32 for this purpose is like using a Land Rover Defender to drive down the road to the shops ... but they are fairly cheap and have the WiFi and BLE built in. Also, as I was researching how to build the Tramps I stumbled across the PedalinoMini and it seemed rude not to use it! lol
I shared some changes I'd made to the source code as well as STLs for the enclosure back at the Pedalino github site [https://github.com/alf45tar/PedalinoMini/issues/342] (I did the design in Fusion 360, if you want a copy of that file drop me a PM); when (if!?) I get around to adding the extra 3 OLEDs and modifying the code, I'll be submitting a PR. My only challenge is that I've got a Pi/Synth type pedal project simmering and am in full on design mode for a 5 string multi-short-scale bass that is chewing up my time ... and I still have a long way to go in understanding how to effectively use the Stomp, I've only got some very simple patches configured so far; still it all keeps me out of getting into too much trouble elsewhere lol
S'manth x
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3 hours ago, tauzero said:
Having just bought a MOD Duo, I thought I'd look again at DIY options for MIDI switching, and came across this in the MOD forum: https://github.com/alf45tar/PedalinoMini
As I've got everything but the screen to build the breadboard version knocking around in my parts containers [1], I have some screens on the way and will start putting it together. Further reports when I've got somewhere.
[1] I recommend takeaway Chinese food containers, the plastic sort, or ice cream tubs for the bigger things.
You may want to have a look at this
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29 minutes ago, crazycloud said:
Look at how the Kubicki bridge works. Best explanation is on a how to string a Kubicki instructional off YT. On my phone ATM so can't link it but it should be easy enough to find. I think there's a maintenance manual online too. I'll look later.
Good shout. I had a look at them not long ago (Even found the patent) , they look really good, but it appears they do not sell the tuner/bridge assemblies.
S'manth x
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5 hours ago, Random Guitarist said:
I'd be pretty concerned that the plastic bit around the blocks might separate under tension.
Also, that plastic is quite pliable you might get an interesting/unwanted pitch change as you pluck.
Sorry that sounds really negative, it might work!
Not negative at all ... valuable observations.
Nice table, I've been working one up myself based on the strings I got ... but the empirical measurements I'm getting are probably quite inaccurate.
Anyway ...
The "head" bracket does distort under load (and I don't think I was anywhere near tunings).
Unloaded
Loaded
I meticulously disassembled one(OK ... hacked it apart) and was delighted to discover that the grub screws are M4.
A quick dive into my box of maker parts later and ...
I need to tweak my tuning knobs to capture the nut but let the bolt head be free. I feel this will produce a better solution. Remains to be seen if the hex grub screw can retain the string (with the bolt I can easily drill a small countersink in the side so that it is not reliant simply on friction) I'm picturing a jury rigged setup with a known mass (bunch of tinned goods) being used to stress test the coupling.
The brass fittings have a non uniform cross section, so I can print an enclosure to prevent them turning when the tuning knob is rotated.
And I expect I can figure out a comparable mounting system for the head end mount; possibly even drilling all the way through one of the two grub holes to allow a through screw into the neck.
I do have a handheld Dremel whcih is very handy, but drilling nicely aligned holes (And making nice cuts out of perspex which I tried in project Trampa) is a stretch target. I've had an 'additive' maker machine (3D printer) for some time and it is brilliant for this and that. I was giving some thought to printing a small drill press for the Dremel, but GAS hit me and so please welcome a wee 'subtractive' maker machine.
Xena (She screams and cuts)
I'm interested to see what I can achieve with her.
S'manth x
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An electric bass ... apropos that a potentially useful component comes from the world of electrics ...
S'manth x
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6 hours ago, Random Guitarist said:
This is a really interesting thread and I have been following as I have been wondering about a build with some similar aspects.
I really like the idea of a smaller bass, shortening it by removing much of the headstock, putting a roller wheel at the bottom of the bass and taking the string around the back.
But I've been struggling to think how the tuner might work.
The thought that has just occurred to me is that I don't need to make the end of the string move. I just need to fix it and then somehow apply tension.
Which leads me to this bad diagram
This intuitively feels like it would be quite simple to make and not have too many moving parts. By slackening the tuning knob the string would be released from tension and the end slide off the pin or other fixing, allowing strings to be changed without tools. I think the biggest question in my mind is how much movement in the tensioner would be needed to bring the string to pitch so long as there is enough adjustment for that it could perhaps work.
Another possibility might be to make the pulley move in and out, but that makes the instrument longer and would need a more robust pulley frame to keep things rigid under tension.
Very interesting!
I'm not sure how one would approach the second idea, but the first one looks deeply cool! With a double ball end string one could use simple off the shelf end mounts. I'm not totally sure on the maths front but intuitively (based on the principles we apply when setting up double anchor systems for rock climbing) it looks like a pulley leverage mechanical advantage would apply. I'd guess that the movement made by the tuning screw would be halved as would the load it experiences. Brilliant!
S' manth x
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Almost forgot, I got a set of pulleys, but they are way to small (about the same diameter as a post on a set of tuning heads).
The G2 string might just bend enough but the diameter of a loop I could put in the B0 before feeling it might start to distort was more like 60mm ... more thought required.
S'manth x
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The angle brackets (and other bits) arrived and so an initial assembly.
Key takeaways at this point ...
- It's as ugly as sin! but it's cheap as chips.
- The tuning heads rotate easily, but the head of the bolt they pull on does as well. In the interim a spot of superglue would sort it.
- The string pull brackets turn and twist along the string axis.
- The string pull brackets are not square along an axis that a fret would take, due to the ball-end being fixed off-axis to the tuning thread.
I'm pretty certain 3D printing a supportive enclosure or total replacement for the string holder would address these.
I might try printing a unit to replace the ball-end mounting bracket, I'm just not sure that 3D printed parts will be strong or stable enough to hold tuning under load ... I've read Nylon is one of the stronger materials nd I have some so may give it a go.
Not sure what will happen under load (The strings are just being held by hand in the photo). I need to figure out how to cobble something together at the head end.
But ... I've got a pickup I can use, I bought some fret wire so can print up a saddle along the lines that @Andyjr1515 suggested and create a zero fret as well ... just need to figure out how to "shape" the wood (Literally a PAR 2x4) in the region of the end of the "fret board"/pup/saddle (suggestions/advice very welcome) and I think (if the system can cope with the tensions) I could get something that will make some noise.
Fortuitously, with the mounts spread across the whole board, the string spacing is about 18mm.
I bought a really cheap (£5) set of strings (5 bass) so am not really expecting much, but I'm learning loads!
What fun it would be to play a 2x4 5 string fretless bass!
S'manth x
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7 hours ago, 3below said:
Looks promising, my only concern would be the brass inserts. Warwick corvettes (German at least) use similar to hold the j bass pickups in. I have had them pull out/work loose. My 2p worth, I would use some rod e.g. 8mm, 10 mm that has a suitable size hole and thread. Make them the full thickness of the headstock and ca or epoxy them in. They will withstand the turning forces that the string will create.
Good to know. At present I'm mucking with stuff I have to hand already, can get cheaply/quickly of Amazon or can 3D print to see if the concepts work.
S'manth x
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and so it begins
Twiggy - a 2x4 proof of concept
The right angle brackets are winging their way to me from Amazon as I type.
S'manth x
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14 minutes ago, Richard R said:
😱
Oh dear ... to put your screaming face at ease (I hope) ... in my experience (ymmv)
IT: decades old; depending on application you can try new stuff and if it doesn't work, try something else (Not so much with things like fly by wire or life critical systems!); Innovation can be rapid and welcome. You can mess with people's tech. I really enjoy IT.
Nursing (Critical Care): centuries old; think outside the box ... hmmm ... OK but don't act! Discuss it, get it vetted by multiple layers/disciplines, trialed, studied, etc (basically do it by the book); Make sure it is going to work as you cannot get do-overs. Innovation is slow. When you consider that a critical care nurse is responsible for their patient's well being and are often performing such separate activities as basic care, monitoring & responding to changes, ventilation management, sedation management (sometimes with paralytic agents), renal dialysis and a whole bunch of other stuff (If you're interested you can check out some New to ITU sheets I wrote for nurses coming to critical care to help during covid) You cannot mess with people's lives or wellbeing. I absolutely love nursing, it feeds my heart! (Sadly, my bank account not so much!)
It took me a while to realise why, despite the fact that there is nothing so rewarding for me as to help my patients and their families (even when this is sadly only to help make bad things less bad) it does not feed the creative, lets try this and if it doesn't work try something else side of me that IT (and other maker type stuff) provides.
S'manth x
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6 minutes ago, Richard R said:
15 hours should do you. Unless you're playing the entire festival.
Indeed! And 10,000 mAh capacity is not that large. I do have plans to build some widgetry so I can also power my Ant amp and HX Stomp using from the USB power bank (or a larger cousin) to be totally mains free; I play in a ukulele band, my band mates can go totally acoustic for street based or other "venues" where we have no access to power ... I could with my Roland Microcube (10h with a fresh set of rechargeable AA batteries), but my current setup needs more juice.
S'manth x
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8 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:
So, pulleys at the very back, strings loop behind the back and double back on themselves and the tuner block faces the other way to normal? Hmmm...it doesn't even need to be pulleys - it could be brass channels...
Blimey - your ideas are even crazier than mine...and most folks think mine are completely bonkers.
Love it
Thinking outside the box brought me dividends in my IT career (not so much in nursing lol).
Brass channels would be easier, but I want to avoid introducing any friction that might lead to (googles for the correct term) backlash in the tuning system.
S'manth x
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And just before I dive into fabrication mode ...
Ball ends are not ball ends. Are all/most bass strings like this?
Imagine the brass collet embedded into the headstock ...
with a knurled head bolt (like this) you could fix these without an Allen key. Suddenly the idea of a double ball end string seems more appealing ...
S'manth x
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2 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:
I confess, I haven't got my head around the pulleys yet
It will all become clear ... I see two extremes
Wow ... that's innovative S'manth, are you a witch?
or
Why no one in their right mind would do such a thing!
S'manth x
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For those interested, Trampa in its current form draws a fairly steady 160mA.
The battery in the pedalboard has a capacity of 10,000 mAh, which should give an operating time between charges of about 62 hours! 🎉
Once I get the extra 3 displays in, this will reduce ... worst case to about 15 hours ... tho it is possible to do some clever stuff with low power consumption with the cpu so might be better.
S'manth x
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7 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:
This is what I was trying to explain earlier regarding using standard double ball end strings for a multiscale. Not sure how string tension would be affected or what scale lengths you could get from this but it was just a thought.
Both drawings have strings of the same length
As you will also see, drawings are not my forte!
Totally the top one for Flo.
The only difference is that between the bridge/saddle and the tuners I've thrown in the pulleys which allows me to move the tuner to the back of the bass.
This mean that the total length of Flo will be B<->H instead of A<->H.
S'manth x
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25 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
I’ve not changed the strings on mine yet… but
I have no words ... that is amazing!
(S'manth furiously runs through the steps needed to 3D print a prototype of that system using a 2x4 fretless bass)
S'manth x
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6 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:
OK - I have a bit more time to explain where I'm coming from in terms of the double ball ends. Leastways, that's what I was going to do.
Until I thought about it
I'm sure most folks are ahead of me on this, but have a rest while the old fella catches up
If you really want to use double ball ends** :
- It's only the saddles that need to be multi-scale.
- You could use standard headless tuners in or on a standard block
- Fix that at the very back and square to the string runs
- Take the saddles out
- Set up individual floating saddles or a custom saddle block (3D printed with fret inserts...think Hofner Violin Bass "Extreme") incorporating the multi-scale
Then the string runs are equal length and double ball ends can be used with same length strings (bear in mind, they will still probably be customs because of their length).
**When I did @Jus Lukin's headless wonder, I timed how long it took me to fully string, including cutting to length, a new set of strings on the Nova system and bring them all up to pitch...
...2 minutes. Just sayin'
Yes, yes yes! I am groked!
I cannot put it in words well, but my vision will hopefully be clearer when I get the CAD model updated with tuners. COVID finally caught me on Sat (as well as 3 other band members, wonder where we got it!) and I've been feeling well rough but I shall redouble my effort to get it done. In my mind's eye Flo appears as a thing of elegant simplicity.
I really like your idea about the bridge ... using fret inserts is an amazing suggestion. Easy enough for me to try and it may open the road for me to use a home grown piezo system. One thing I really liked about the UBASS was it's more upright tone, I'd love to be able to mix/blend the magnetic pups with a piezo pickup (Or rather with 5 individual piezo pickups). Might it be feasible to intonate by physically sliding the saddles up/down the body, relying on the pressure of the strings to hold them in the correct position? If I 3D printed them I can have them any shape I like and can print them in whatever height I want to adjust bridge action (I can get down to layer resolutions of 0.07mm on my 3D printer) 🤔
(OK S'manth ... less waffling and more CAD modelling!)
S'manth x
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"They also build that do not work with wood" - Trampa: Self build MIDI footswitch.
in Build Diaries
Posted · Edited by Smanth
Very nice!
I'm aiming for a similar but smaller setup.
A synth of some sort will fit in top right; I'll move power to below the pedalboard and have a floating expression pedal.
I just wired up on of my booster circuits to the Stomp.
It did power the stomp from a 5v USB input, the Stomp was drawing apx 800mA@9v (Much as the video you posted suggested) but it was pulling 2.3A (yes 2300mA)@5v from the USB ... not gonna cut mustard for me. I'm searching down the USB PD approach to see if it is any more efficient.
And on an ESP note, my eyes bugged out a little when I saw this beauty!
£6 from the Pi Hut!
No idea what I need it for but I want one! lol
S'manth x