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Posts posted by BassTool
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He's done it once again 😎 Awesome work from the maestro 😍
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Beautiful work 😍👌
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Great work so far 👍
+1 for a natural finish, plenty 'how to' info available on here including 'Honza's Tru oil technique'.
That wood looks like it could come out beautifully, shame to cover it with paint IMO..
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Utterly brilliant as usual, that joint is amazing, and I'm looking forward to revisiting how the veneering is done.
I veneered my BlazerRay headstock and only found Andy's 'how to' after I'd messed it up slightly 😣
Great job so far 👍
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Looks like an interesting project, good luck 👍 you'll certainly not be short of decent help/advice on here
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On 01/05/2019 at 21:12, TheGreek said:
Considered a career as a Poet?? 😉😉
You've got me sussed Mick 👍 My rhyming's quite slick 😧
But Andy's so quick.......at making wood stick 😎
I thang yowwww.... 😝
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Nice transformation
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He's done it again! 😎 Great fix and pics 👍
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6 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:
@fleabag wanted some specific designs of decals for the headstock.
I followed up a link that @BassTool put on his recent thread for Rob at GuitarDecals.co.uk.
Superb!
Best decals I've ever used - super, super, super thin and including whites!
Still have to do the overcoating of finish on them, but this is how they look at the moment:
+1 for Rob's work, sorted the BlazerRay headstock decal out for me
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On 22/03/2019 at 09:40, Andyjr1515 said:
+1 on this! Great find and link, @BassTool !
Best decals I've ever used, including white ones, and ridiculously good value for 3 of each of two designs at £15 total. Wow - they are super, super, super thin. Never come across anything like it.
Good comms with Rob and fast turnaround too.
Oh my!!! I've actually shown @Andyjr1515 something he didn't know on this forum!!! 🤣 Haha glad you like his work Andy, I had to hunt around eleswhere after the shock I got from the frankly ridiculous R&F quote..
Rob was brilliant, I sent him pics of what I wanted and he delivered big style IMO. Great service, and for me, not one but two decals in case I messed up, both for under a tenner. I told him I'd recommend him on here and he was chuffed to bits.
Glad you're impressed Andy
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19 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:
Fitted a pair of black metal knobs to this to finish it off. Got a comment about this bass at the SE Bash last year that the EMG knobs looked cheap and I completely agree - they're not even what I would call quality mouldings especially the stacked knob. Shame really as the rest of their kit is first class in my opinion. The stacked knob looked a little too tall on this small bodied bass so I filed a couple of mm off the top knob and I think it looks quite a bit better.
I think that is all the little jobs complete on this one and need to wait a little before I can do any work on the finish of the other shortie so on with the semi hollow basses to get them progressed as far as I can for the SW Bass Bash.
Absolutely stunning 😎
2 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:What I plan to do is to mill out the box with the logo in and replace it with an inlay with my logo as there is nowhere else on the bass for one. It won't be done before the upcoming bass bashes but I think that will be the most practical and classy.
Absolutely genius
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20 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:
OK - hauling it all back...
Two or three jobs ticked off the 'to do' list.
Because the final finish coats will go on shortly, it's time to fix anything that needs sanding or fettling on the body. One of these was to tidy up the fit of the pickup chamber that was still a bit uneven. That's now pretty even all the way round:
I then bolted the neck on to check the neck angle and also mark the fixing position of the bridge.
Neck angle is pretty much spot on so I could then position the bridge.
Pretty normal stuff. First was winding the G saddle to its forward position and popping a bit of masking tape, 90 degrees to the body join line at the position corresponding to the scale length at the G saddle.
Then popping a couple of strings through either side of the bridge and clamping them loosely at the nut. I used a guitar capo for this:
Then it was a case of moving the bridge left or right along the scale length masking tape line to ensure the E and G were equidistant from the edges of the neck:
Then popping a couple of pieces of masking tape to record that position in case the bridge got knocked, and then centre-holing the positions of the screws ready to drill the pilot holes:
And that leaves 12 to-do's to do!
That's a great 'how to' 👍
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8 minutes ago, AndyTravis said:
They went bust. Now owned by Dawsons...who are closing shops.
just saying...only buy it if it’s in stock.
Good shout AT
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3 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said:
I thought that, but it’s the fluffy stuff lining the case!
Should have gone to Specsavers.....🙄
😄
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On 04/03/2019 at 22:19, Jabba_the_gut said:
I've decide to take the suggestion made by @TheGreek, @Andyjr1515, @wrinkleygit to use magnets to hold the control cover on. I've used neodymium magnets in the body and in the cover.
I have to say, I do like the way this leaves the back of the bass very clean with only the bolt holes for the neck visible. I haven't put a notch in the body to allow this to be removed as it shouldn't need to be taken off but if necessary, a cocktail stick through the jack socket will do the job. Just trying to leave the back as clean as possible.
So thanks chaps, a good idea that I will implement on other basses!
You got a link for those magnets @Jabba_the_gut please? 👌
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50 minutes ago, TheGreek said:
Bit off topic - but is that damage on the bottom RHS?! 😫
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1 hour ago, Jabba_the_gut said:
+1!!
Interesting little project - look forward to seeing what you do with this.
+2 👍
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Used them ages ago, can't remember what for but deffo used them with no probs
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2 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:
Could be worse... it might have chaffinched its woodpecker or got pigeon-holed by a great big bustard. It's not a garden out there it's a jungle and we all know... Jungle is massive!
Makes a change from giant snails I suppose, but, as @SpondonBassed said earlier in another thread, March is waaaay too early to be calling him for best thread deviation of 2019 😆
Come back @Andyjr1515 - now it's your thread that needs putting back on track 😄 SB's too good at this malarkey 🤣
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1 minute ago, Andyjr1515 said:
There's still a lot to do, but I've got to the 'still to do' list stage (presently 14 items and falling) which is always a good sign
Andy
Hmmmm, the still to do list.
I've got one of them on the BlazerRay with one item outstanding - that battery box cover is still not done yet, sellotape holding the battery in place whilst I play it...
It's not a good look..
😆
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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:
Back to knobs, two done (haven't put the MoP dot on yet) and one to go.
Same method as last time:
I use the 6mm i.d. grub-screw inserts sourced from Thonk:
Then, having cut the walnut and purpleheart to thickness, first drill the clearance recess in the walnut:
Then, without moving the wood or the press-drill, drill a 9.5mm hole:
Then use a 25mm plug cutter to cut the knob bottom out:
Same plug cutter to cut out a top disc of purpleheart:
Glue the top disc to the back. Drill the side hole for access to the grubscrew. Carefully drive in the splined insert and we have a coordinating knob:
What do you reckon?
I reckon you make that look like a piece of cake, lovely job that
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7 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:
Without wanting to stereotype anyone... how is she for shoes? Not that I'd dare use it as a counter argument of course, just curious.
🤣
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6 hours ago, TheGreek said:
Careful...that could just open the floodgates - sell "old shoes" so SWMBO can buy new ones??? Not somewhere I'd like to go TBH.
😂 nicely put....👍👍
Aria Pro II SB-R150 Electrics Restoration
in Build Diaries
Posted
WOW! That is a lot of love for Aria's right there! Impressive, they are lovely basses