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Prostheta

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  1. Repainting

    Thanks for the heads up, Norris. Poly is a catalysed finish, that is, it cures by chemical process rather than the simple solvent evaporation which nitro does. Spraying nitro over nitro for example means the solvent will reflow the existing nitro slightly so they become one finish. Poly doesn't do this, so any nitro sprayed over it will have poor adhesion. Perhaps in some respects this is what you want, however it might be so weak that it sloughs off in sheets or big chips rather than the relic-y wear look. Not what you're looking for. The nitro will need some kind of suitable surface to bond with, such as one that has been scuffed with sandpaper. A mechanically-keyed bond like this should be sufficient for a good nitro over poly finish. Norris mentioned shellac to me in passing, which is an option, however I'd think that simpler is always better. Shellac is fantastic if you're trying to keep the top layers in place over a potentially incompatible base, maybe not so much for something that you want to relic. Hope that helps.
  2. NBD 1980 Aria Pro SB-1000 "batwing"

    The originals were potted in epoxy, or at least the MB-1, MB-1E, MB-II and (I think) the MB-III were. The MB-IV was unpotted which meant you could install more poles and potentially rewind.
  3. NBD 1980 Aria Pro SB-1000 "batwing"

    Congrats Andy! They do sound fantastic, and entirely why they're usually keepers....and a high price on the market these days....!
  4. NBD 1980 Aria Pro SB-1000 "batwing"

    Hopefully it is simpler!
  5. NBD 1980 Aria Pro SB-1000 "batwing"

    The way I would fault-find this without intrusive work is to take an LED with a series current-limiting resistor, and use that to check for a 9v potential difference between the jack > preamp wires. Pins 1-3 are +9v, 0v and -9v respectively, so checks of pins 1+2 and then 2+3 are useful. (this is a lie since I'd use a DMM, but it's another way to do this....)
  6. NBD 1980 Aria Pro SB-1000 "batwing"

    I am wondering whether the jack socket might be at fault. That's something we haven't discussed as of yet. It does get a bit crazy from that point diagnostically, since the power is switched by the jack's DPDT switch also. Wrong moves can cause permanent and swift preamp failure, as evidenced by a few other SB-1000 owners who have had catastrophic adventures. If the jack isn't switching the batteries, then it could offer half of the supply voltage to the preamp or nothing at all. This might result in some sort of signal bleedthrough, but it's unpredictable in what would happen. Passive mode would be unaffected. If on the other hand, we don't have a signal in either mode, then the problem is upstream of the preamp (switch, pickup) or downstream of it (tone, vol, jack). I would first want to confirm that there is a stable and correct non-earth referenced balanced supply to the preamp (+9v, 0v, -9v) to figure out whether it is a power or signal path issue. Ask Steve to ping me an email if he wants. Not sure of his direct experience with SB-1000s, however I'm happy to relate what I can.
  7. NBD 1980 Aria Pro SB-1000 "batwing"

    Hi Andy! I'm surprised that Norris didn't tag me in on this thread. Yeah, this fault-find is a bit of a bummer what with the preamp not sorting it. I definitely agree with testing professionally before throwing more money or items at it. Keep me in the loop with the findings and I'm more than happy to provide what input I can. If it's of any consolation, swapping out any 40yo preamp - functioning or not - will have an impact on the noise floor, battery life and general clarity. The silicon used in the originals is incomparable to modern processes, that and the list of other improvements made. Equally, Veijo [Rautia]'s pickups are identical exactly where they need to be and far better when they should be. There's a lot of love that goes into these old Japanese birds!
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