Daquifsta

Not related to any of the exchanges in this thread, but I do have some prior knowledge of the dreaded T nuts from my model aircraft days. What we used to do was install them as normal so that the points bit into the wood. We then popped them back out, put a dab of two pack epoxy or super glue underneath (don't get any on the threads!) and then put it all back together. Voila - no more T nuts dropping out.

Then, my advice @ the OP is to go grab a pair of these workhorse cabs for the best price you can (my 'extremely roadworn' examples cost me about £60 each from the evilbay), and sit back with a big smug grin on your face at the very workable rig you'll then have.

I run a Hartke LH1000 into a pair of these cabs which is a similar situation to what you're planning, in terms of having spare amplifier horsepower. As others have said in here: if it starts sounding bad, turn it down until it stops sounding bad Just thought I would add that you need to tread a little carefully if you're buying these second hand, as I did, because I think I'm right in saying that all but the latest of them were only offered in 4 ohm flavour. I don't know your head's specification, but you'd need to check that it can cope! Also, don't buy these thinking they are super- light either: they are over 30 kilos each. Having said all of that, I think they make a pretty decent sound, and my setup has just survived a 10 hour, 9 band charity gig, with all the other bands using my bass rig at trouser flapping levels

If I had a pound for every time I saw our band's previous Bass player destroy a very lovely Yamaha head by connecting it to a cab of totally unknown specification with a nice sparkly red guitar lead, and then be all surprised and hurt about it, I'd have £3 now. I was just their live- in sound monkey in those days, but I watched, and I learned, and my rig has some awesome- ly fat proper speaker cables from Mr OBBM now Edit, for the benefit of thepurpleblob ebay seller Bassic bits = OBBM on here = bestest cables your money can buy, andyou wont need very much of your money to get them, either

We were actually booked to play there again, and headlining too, when the owners called it a day It's a real shame - a really nice venue, with a really convenient car park next door! To be fair though, the audience that night was pretty much just the other bands, can't see that they would have made a lot of cash.

Well, just to add some balance to this thread full of awesome- ness, here we have the finale from my first ever gig. Many mistakes, much panic, terrible on- stage sound, a very odd playing position and a buzz that lasted for days The second song, at about 5:20, is probably the better of the two..

Now I've just scanned through this entire thread, and as far as I can see, nobody has mentioned Tubeway Army's (Gary Numan's band) bassist Paul Gardiner. I think his lines on 'Music for Chameleons' in particular are fantastic. I guess his tone is perhaps a little over processed by today's standards, but what the hell I'll also mention Colin Edwin from Porcupine Tree, because I think the whole band is sadly underrated. I've always felt there was a huge amount of skill in knowing when to just shut the hell up and playing something simple really, really well that serves the song, rather than doing something flashy.

[quote name='The_D' post='602619' date='Sep 18 2009, 11:24 PM']Thats Dave/OBBM. Regular poster on here and great quality cables. I only use his cables now and you are right they are serious.[/quote] Well that's even better - I've been supporting a fellow basschatter and I didn't even know it Did my first gig with this rig on Thursday night - very happy indeed, and so was the other band's bass player (we were kit sharing) - trouser flapping!

I've never seen one of these heads up close, so have no idea of the actual dimensions involved, but here are my thoughts based on your pix. 1: Even if the rack ears could be attached to the amp chassis, leaving that lot exposed with no properly fitting cover, even though it would in a rack is super dangerous! 2: My next thought is that maybe the head is supposed to stay in the wooden case, screw the rack ears to the case, and then that case goes in the rack. This obviously depends on how big it is! However, the bolts supplied with the rack ears are just that: bolts, not self- tapping screws, so are designed to go into a pre existing threaded hole. Are there any threaded fixings buried under the carpet covering on the case? I think the real answer though is that there must be several versions of the series 6 (or something like that), and this isn't one of the ones that can be rack mounted. There is every possibility that I'm wrong, and someone with more Trace knowledge will help you, but it doesn't look hopeful.

This: [url="http://www.independentrecording.net/irn/resources/freqchart/main_display.htm"]http://www.independentrecording.net/irn/re...ain_display.htm[/url] was posted by somebody in the sound on sound forum a couple of weeks back, and is quite a lot of fun to play with, or at least colourful

I have a Laney RB3 as my 'home' amp. Ticks all the boxes for CD input and headphone out, plus has a DI out if you want to record and at 65 watts is just about usable with a band if you stomp on the guitarist's fingers and give the drummer twiglets to batter with. Or just talk to them nicely to turn down a bit.

[quote name='casapete' post='594761' date='Sep 10 2009, 02:22 PM']IIRC the Peavey cabs are only 175 watts rms@4 ohms, so there is a real danger of damaging the drivers with your Hartke if you give it some stick. The Peaveys are IMO a great sounding 2x10,just take care with that volume knob![/quote] Yup, you're spot on there Casapete, but the Hartke's two output stages only ( 'only' ) do 320 watts @ 4 ohms each, and so far I've never needed to go past about 6 on the loud knob, so I think it will be ok. And I second your view on the Peavey cabs - solidly built and nice sounding.

I've just been in a very similar position: joining my first band and wondering what to do for stage gear. For me, quality rather than cheap, but also on a budget points straight away to the second hand market. What I've ended up with is an almost new Hartke LH1000 head (cost me £350), two pretty battered but servicable Peavey 210 TVX cabs (about £60 each) and some serious cables from an ebay seller called bassic bits to join it all together. Bassically , I've spent just over £500 to get IMHO a pretty serious rig, with the flexibility of only using one 2 x 10 cab in a smaller venue. But that's just what I've done - there as many opinions as there are members on here. Happy hunting!

As title really, maybe people would like somewhere to review the service they have recieved from companies, rather than the actual items of kit? Unless I've missed it somewhere?

Hey all, Just wanted to mention this website, since I've had very good service from them recently. Usual disclaimer: I have absolutely nothing to do with them, I promise . Anywho, very long story short, I just joined my first band because their previous Bass monkey left. When he left he took the PA with him, as well he might have, since he owned it! Our search for replacement gear led us to these guys, although primarily focused on those DJ weirdos, they also carry a lot of PA gear. They were on the phone within about 5 minutes of placing the order to apologise that the 12" passive floor wedges that we'd ordered were out of stock, and would we mind 15" ones as a free upgrade! Brilliant. Here's where it gets slightly more interesting, because the eight separate boxes ended up in the hands of three different couriers (multiple warehouses and sub contract suppliers, I suppose). The order was placed at 3:10 on Weds afternoon, Citilink and Fedex managed to get their packages to me by 2 on Thursday, i.e. less than 24 hours from the order. DHL were another story, they were given two identical speaker cabs to deliver, they managed to deliver one of them on Friday. The other of the two (I'll stress this again ) identical speakers was held up at their main depot in Hatfield for being 'oversized', and was finally delivered on Monday. All through the mess with DHL, the peeps at DJkit were hassling them on my behalf, and were very quick to answer all my phonecalls as I sat waiting for the non arrival of DHL vans. So in conclusion a massive thumbs up for DJkit, and a very wet raspberry for DHL. Cheers

I can only offer this: I can haz prize now?

Also, once you've tuned up with the korg, play the note at the fifth fret on your 'E' string: it should be the same as the open A string, then the 5th fret on the A string is D, and so on. Apologies if that's a bit basic, but I don't know where you're starting from

[quote name='Rich44' post='584461' date='Aug 29 2009, 01:35 PM']Won't this also lower the pickup under the A string slightly? Or will it all just balance out.[/quote] What you might also try is undoing the screw at the opposite end of the pickup a little aswell, thus kind of swinging the whole thing, so that the pickup ends up closer to the higher strings. I set up all my basses myself (rightly or wrongly!) and I always have the pickups a little closer to the high strings than the low ones. My second suggestion is that I once had a similar problem with an 'E' string which was pretty old, and concluded that somehow the outer windings of the string had come away from the core wire a little and the string was kind of rattling within itself, if that makes sense to you? So maybe try another string?

Love the colour, and the outdoor sofa

[quote name='leschirons' post='579610' date='Aug 24 2009, 09:58 PM']Quite a collection from someone who calls himmself a beginner. Nice to have you on board.[/quote] I just like to hold them.............and the basses.

Well, I bought an Adam Black Apollo (4 string fretted, 24 frets, neck through construction, kind of shaped a bit like a Gibson ripper) a couple of days ago from the bay for the huge sum of £58. My example is a bit battered and seems to have 'fallen off' a strap at some point judging by the massive ding in the body but the build quality is nice, the hardware seems pretty solid and the sound at practice volume at home seems pretty good too. It's going to be my back up bass for gigs, so I deliberately went super cheap on the grounds that I wouldn't care if it got dropped, stolen or further mutilated in some way. That said, unless it sounds truly horrible at our next practice, I'd probably miss it if something happened to it. Personally, I'd happily chance £100 on a new one, if that's what you're thinking of doing - just accept that it's probably not going to have a fantastic setup and may need a bit of fiddling with the intonation and string height.

Hi gang, Thanks all for the warm wecome @Crazykiwi - We use Solidworks for anything new, but still have a thousand or so drawings in boring old AutoCAD. I don't often get to draw curvy things lke guitars - mostly I get to draw square blocks with assorted holes in!

Just wanted to add a little balance to this thread, but I am in no way disagreeing with anything anyone has said so far. I've actually seen some White Horse gear in the flesh: our guitarist used their 120W modelling head / 2 1x12 cab package for rehearsals and gigs for 18 months or so. It does actually sound pretty good both live and recorded, but the build quality is best described as 'delicate'. The head is fairly sturdy, but he's had jack sockets fall out of cabs and suchlike. The cabs on this are a little odd, too: described as beng closed back on the website, they are in fact open back, but also have ports in the front baffle, like someone changed their mind! Anyway, long story short, he got GAS and bought Hiwatt gear instead! We're still using the White Horse set up as makeshift floor monitors though....

There is Virtualdub, which is either freeware or open source, one or t'other.